Hello everyone!
Here is my last 1/6 figure project for 2022; it's a Dark Ages Northern Raider and is a reworking of Olaf the Viking, a 1/6 figure by Dragon released eons ago. The figure's body is DID Advanced Slim Body while the headsculpt brand escapes me.
The project entailed researching and sourcing individual loose parts from various retailers or from my own supply stock. The headsculpt neck joint was rejigged with apoxy putty before I proceeded to completely repaint the headsculpt, followed by whigging or 'hair rooting', bearding and braiding, paint-weathering modifications of the DML smock, pants from my surplus stock, painting the Battlefield Toys puttees and woven 'chainmail' worn on top of a COO Models weathered undercoat. A single leather belt strap helped to suspend the modified DML scabbard and a scratchbuilt leather money pouch. The slide-strap scabbard suspension technique was based on some very interesting research by Roland Warzecha (Link to his Patron article and video given below).
How to use a waist belt to suspend a Viking Age scabbard
By Roland Warzecha (Dimicator)
Step-by-Step
Issued in 1999, the Dragon (DML) articulated figure came in plastic, fabric and diecast material. Below image is Olaf, with his molded chainmail suit removed, while the insert on the right is the illustration of the warrior which I believe Dragon referenced.
Intrigued by the long Dane axe that the figure was armed with, I did some research and learnt some interesting bits of trivia.
Dane Axe
The Dane axe is an early type of battle axe, primarily used during the transition between the European Viking Age and early Middle Ages.
Popular during the 10th and 11th centuries as the Danes fought to gain strongholds in England, Normandy, and Ireland, the very large Dane Axes were regarded as the weapons of elite-Viking warriors. Dane axes used as status symbols might be as long as 1.5 to 1.7 m (5 to 5½ ft) while others spanned from 0.9 and 1.2 m (3.0 and 3.9 ft) long.
They, in particular, were useful weapons because they allowed for range. The long handle meant that a Viking did not have to be close to his opponent to strike. Hiding behind a shield wall, a Viking could swing his axe over the shields. He could also use the heel of his axe to pull his opponent's shield down. Swung with two hands, the battle-axe was capable of cutting off the head of a man or horse.
As time passed the Dane Axe became popular on both sides of the battlefield. It is said that Harold’s Housecarls (bodyguards) during the Battle of Hastings were wielding Dane Axes. The Dane Axe became so ubiqiutous that they were continued in use well into the 12th century and later.
This style of axe, for the most part, is a deceptively light and agile weapon. It is clear that these axes were not made to be work axes because they lacked the mass and balance to fell trees and such. They were, on the other hand, perfect for killing a human.
Watch the video below to see a Dane axe in action against a Longsword.
Dane Axe VS. Longsword... Think You're Safe? Hah!
by Scallagrim
The 1/6 figure
I wished to give new life to this figure and after copious research, managed to source for a headsculpt which I think should be suitable.
As usual, I always begin by working on the paintworks for the headsculpt. The headsculpt was completely repainted in layers of tints. All paintwork for skin and eyeballs were done in Vallejo acrylics.
Headsculpt
Once done, it's time to 'root' in the hair and beard. A little knowledge about how to braid came in handy (Thanks YouTube!)
Helmet
I'm using some parts from Olaf, my 1/6 Viking by Dragon. Here. his conical helmet is given a weathering treatment with some acrylics.
Shield (Rönd)
The primary defensive weapon of a Viking raider was the shield. Because it was round, it was called rönd. Shields were about a yard across and was made of light wood such as linden, pine, spruce, maple or yew; a lighter and cheaper material than metal. Painting the shield coats the grain in the wood planks to prevent splitting while acting as a sealant against moisture. Shields with more intricate designs would presumably have rawhide covers glued with bone glue and rawhide edging. Rawhide improves the strength of the shields considerably and were water-proofed.
Olaf's shield - note the heavily scribed grooves on both sides of the shield! I added some grooves of my own to the back of the shield.
A very battle-worn shield, battered with axe slashes, weathered by exposure to the weather and battle conditions, grimy, dirty and muddied. Below image is the back of the shield with wooden vertical hand-grip. The shield's rawhide rim is showing signs of deterioration. A leather carrying strap will be attached later.
Undercoat, Chainmail and Money Pouch
Undercoat after heavy weathering and sleeve modifications. I used a diluted mix of raw umber and black acrylics. Chainmail after modification and heavy weathering to tone down the metallic fabric. I began by underpainting the chainmail with black acrylic, then lightly drybrushing gun metal and some steel highlights in between layers of Top Coat.
Scratchbuilt leather Viking money pouch with bone lock. This was lightly weathered with Tamiya Weathering Masters Rust Brown. I had thoughts of fabricating a bread bag with sling but reckoned that this would be left on board the longship, as would the cloak.
Thanks for viewing!
Here is my last 1/6 figure project for 2022; it's a Dark Ages Northern Raider and is a reworking of Olaf the Viking, a 1/6 figure by Dragon released eons ago. The figure's body is DID Advanced Slim Body while the headsculpt brand escapes me.
The project entailed researching and sourcing individual loose parts from various retailers or from my own supply stock. The headsculpt neck joint was rejigged with apoxy putty before I proceeded to completely repaint the headsculpt, followed by whigging or 'hair rooting', bearding and braiding, paint-weathering modifications of the DML smock, pants from my surplus stock, painting the Battlefield Toys puttees and woven 'chainmail' worn on top of a COO Models weathered undercoat. A single leather belt strap helped to suspend the modified DML scabbard and a scratchbuilt leather money pouch. The slide-strap scabbard suspension technique was based on some very interesting research by Roland Warzecha (Link to his Patron article and video given below).
How to use a waist belt to suspend a Viking Age scabbard
By Roland Warzecha (Dimicator)
Step-by-Step
Issued in 1999, the Dragon (DML) articulated figure came in plastic, fabric and diecast material. Below image is Olaf, with his molded chainmail suit removed, while the insert on the right is the illustration of the warrior which I believe Dragon referenced.
Intrigued by the long Dane axe that the figure was armed with, I did some research and learnt some interesting bits of trivia.
Dane Axe
The Dane axe is an early type of battle axe, primarily used during the transition between the European Viking Age and early Middle Ages.
Popular during the 10th and 11th centuries as the Danes fought to gain strongholds in England, Normandy, and Ireland, the very large Dane Axes were regarded as the weapons of elite-Viking warriors. Dane axes used as status symbols might be as long as 1.5 to 1.7 m (5 to 5½ ft) while others spanned from 0.9 and 1.2 m (3.0 and 3.9 ft) long.
They, in particular, were useful weapons because they allowed for range. The long handle meant that a Viking did not have to be close to his opponent to strike. Hiding behind a shield wall, a Viking could swing his axe over the shields. He could also use the heel of his axe to pull his opponent's shield down. Swung with two hands, the battle-axe was capable of cutting off the head of a man or horse.
As time passed the Dane Axe became popular on both sides of the battlefield. It is said that Harold’s Housecarls (bodyguards) during the Battle of Hastings were wielding Dane Axes. The Dane Axe became so ubiqiutous that they were continued in use well into the 12th century and later.
This style of axe, for the most part, is a deceptively light and agile weapon. It is clear that these axes were not made to be work axes because they lacked the mass and balance to fell trees and such. They were, on the other hand, perfect for killing a human.
Watch the video below to see a Dane axe in action against a Longsword.
Dane Axe VS. Longsword... Think You're Safe? Hah!
by Scallagrim
The 1/6 figure
I wished to give new life to this figure and after copious research, managed to source for a headsculpt which I think should be suitable.
As usual, I always begin by working on the paintworks for the headsculpt. The headsculpt was completely repainted in layers of tints. All paintwork for skin and eyeballs were done in Vallejo acrylics.
Headsculpt
Once done, it's time to 'root' in the hair and beard. A little knowledge about how to braid came in handy (Thanks YouTube!)
Helmet
I'm using some parts from Olaf, my 1/6 Viking by Dragon. Here. his conical helmet is given a weathering treatment with some acrylics.
Shield (Rönd)
The primary defensive weapon of a Viking raider was the shield. Because it was round, it was called rönd. Shields were about a yard across and was made of light wood such as linden, pine, spruce, maple or yew; a lighter and cheaper material than metal. Painting the shield coats the grain in the wood planks to prevent splitting while acting as a sealant against moisture. Shields with more intricate designs would presumably have rawhide covers glued with bone glue and rawhide edging. Rawhide improves the strength of the shields considerably and were water-proofed.
Olaf's shield - note the heavily scribed grooves on both sides of the shield! I added some grooves of my own to the back of the shield.
A very battle-worn shield, battered with axe slashes, weathered by exposure to the weather and battle conditions, grimy, dirty and muddied. Below image is the back of the shield with wooden vertical hand-grip. The shield's rawhide rim is showing signs of deterioration. A leather carrying strap will be attached later.
Undercoat, Chainmail and Money Pouch
Undercoat after heavy weathering and sleeve modifications. I used a diluted mix of raw umber and black acrylics. Chainmail after modification and heavy weathering to tone down the metallic fabric. I began by underpainting the chainmail with black acrylic, then lightly drybrushing gun metal and some steel highlights in between layers of Top Coat.
Scratchbuilt leather Viking money pouch with bone lock. This was lightly weathered with Tamiya Weathering Masters Rust Brown. I had thoughts of fabricating a bread bag with sling but reckoned that this would be left on board the longship, as would the cloak.
Thanks for viewing!
