oils and use of brushes

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Bennet Viaromana

New Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2023
Messages
1
Hello everybody… I’m a new newbie, so posting in the “Just starting…” forum seems the logical place.

I’ve been modelling since the 70’s. Starting with aircraft and recently moving into the AFV arena but until now I’ve never done figures (not counting “slapping” Humbrol paint on 1/32 Airfix figures last century).

So, here are my first questions:
  1. I have a collection of Abteilung 502 oils. Are these suitable for figure painting or would it be better to invest in another (better?) brand of oils, and if so, which brand is suggested?
  2. Are there guidelines on which type of brush (sable, synthetic, …) are best used with which type of paints (oils, acrylics, enamels, …)?

Thank you in advance for your feedback,

Bennet
 
As many suggestions as there are painters, and brands of oils and brushes! ;)

I think there are some who use Abteilung 502; I use Mussini Schmincke oils myself, with generic mineral spirits to thin them. For brushes, I do use Kolinsky sable, some Winsor & Newton, but other brands that I've picked up along the way. They work well enough for me. More important is just practice, to pick up the techniques and get comfortable with them.

Regarding the brushes, the important thing, to me, is that the brush retains its shape. In my own experience, natural fibers, properly cared for, have held their shape best.

Hope that helps, prosit!
Brad
 
There are a number of very good oil makers, but make sure to buy a brand’s top quality paint. I use only artist’s oils, there is a big difference in the way they go on, dry and are much more durable. I use primarily Gamblin and Windsor & Newton artist’s oils, both are great quality. I also use only natural hair brushes. They can very expensive, but are well worth it.
 
Abteilung oils are good quality. And they come in 20ml tubes so they're not too expensive. I find the Abteilungs are a bit oily on top. But you can cure that by squeezing some out onto cardboard or paper.

Try to buy the Artists quality for other brands, it's usually worth it. Most brands are good, so buy whatever is easily available to you.

The smallest tube for oil paints is around 40ml, but this is way more than you'll ever need. A little goes a long way. For example, I use the red-brown colour Burnt Sienna for both human flesh and horses. I use it a lot. I've had the same tube for the last ten years and there's more than half of it left.

The only brand I know that does artists quality in 20ml tubes is Lefranc & Bourgeois. Lovely paint but a bit expensive. Winsor & Newton is a good brand and widely available.

Wishing you all the best with your oil painting.
 
Dear Bennet,
Welcome to the forum. In answer to you information request, I use a lot of oils (but not exclusively). I have not used the Abteilung oils so I really cannot comment on them. I know however that they are a good respected make in the world of AFV Painting and weathering. As others have said, there is a multitude of makers of oil paints from basic student lines to oils that have been manufactured similar to the Old Masters, and with the corresponding price tag!

If you are serious about using just oils then I would not start with the student paints. The reason is this. The "professional" paints have a much higher pigment ratio and can be thinned down to an amazing degree for glazes etc. A large part of of oil painting is mastering this layering technique.

I would also experiment with the drying times of the paint. This can easily be speeded up with the use of Liquin. Depending on how much is used, you can make the paint rapidly set. If you mix mediums and want to add an area of acrylic paint then you will have to Matt varnish the oils otherwise the acrylic paint will ball up rather like water on a waxed surface. I recommend Testors Matt Varnish. It comes in small shake and spray cans, dries very quickly and is dead flat Matt. Highly recommended.

I would start by using the Windsor & Newton range. They are readily available and are often cheaper to buy online. They are consistent and are available in different tube sizes as well as a myriad of colours. As Steve said in the above post, a little goes a long way so there really is no need to buy the monster sized tubes, however tempting the Christmas sales offer may be! As your experience grows you might branch out into other brands for more specialist colours. Assuming that the top is properly closed, they have a pretty indefinite shelf life.

I use sable brushes. Yes they are expensive, but if you look after them they will last you a long time. After a session I clean off the excess paint using real turpentine and then use B&J "The Masters Brush" Cleaner and Preserver ( available from all good Art shops as well as Amazon) This resembles old fashioned shaving soap and really does help preserve the brushes. I would avoid the white hog haired brushes as even the finest of them is just too coarse. Before I forget, I would also recommend a fan shaped brush. This rather resembles a false eyelash on a stick! It is used to ever so gently tease out and feather edge the paint when shading. I used this technique when painting the grey horse in one of my earlier posts.

Finally, I would like to recommend this book. It is, The Painter's Handbook by Mark David Gottsegen ISBN: 978-0-8230-3496-3

The book is primarily for the artist painter of portraits, land scapes and so on. It covers the use of oils, acrylics, pastel use, pigments and so on. Any technique you can think of is covered. Yes, a lot of the contents you probably will not use but it truly is a mine of information. If you go for it, get an earlier edition second hand from Amazon / Ebay as they are much cheaper.

Have a great time on the forum. I look forward to seeing some of your work in the future.

Cheers,
Paul
 
May I second Paul's recommendation for B&J "The Masters" Brush Cleaner. This stuff will clean and preserve all your expensive brushes. You only need the small one, it lasts for ages.

Here's a picture:
masters.jpeg


When you've finished painting you wet your brush and apply to the soap. Then wipe off the excess and shape the brush. This is the ghastly view inside, all that gunk would otherwise be clogging up my ferrules and wrecking my brushes.

gunk.jpeg
 

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