38mm green in progress

[RobH]

Hi folks

OK, still fantasy minis, but it's teaching me some new techniques and I'm learning lots.

This guy is 38mm tall, and it's the first head I've attempted in Duro/kneadatite and obviously proportionally he's geared up to a fantasy style!!!!! :lol:

why 38mm? He grew..........

I'm pretty happy with the way he's progressing right now;

your thoughts and comments would be appreciated!

Rob

 

[quang]

Hello Rob,

Looks like he'll turn out to be a rather... 'difficult' character! :lol:

The slightly hunched pose and the tension on the neck are commendable.

I'm looking forward to the next step.

Best of luck.

Q.

 

[RobH]

Cheers Quang.....

it's surprising just what sort of detail you can get in this scale! Learning some valuable lessons in using Kneadatite

 

[Manfred]

Rob,

did you sulpt the face in one piece, ie a single layer over a hardened core or did you add the features seperately?


I ask because I have a hard time blending Duro on small surfaces. Thats why I'm moving more to a MS/Duro mix lately.

 

[Colin_Fraser]

I was going to ask the same question as Manfred. I know Duro is the putty of choice for pro mini-sculptors but that's because of its ability to withstand high heat in the casting process.

I find that I have a lot more success sculpting small scale faces (1/48) in sculpey or magicsculpt. I find that the softer putty takes fine detail better.

I usually sculpt the face first and then add the back of the head and finally the body in proportin to the head. Its really ahrd to avoid scale creep in this size of figure. If I’m not careful, a 1/48th head starts out that size and winds up as 1/35th.

The key seem to be to start out with a smaller blob of clay or putty and this allows for the sculptor’s manipulation of the medium to widen/lengthen the sculpting surface to the desired size.

Colin

 

[RobH]

Hi guys

It is hard to use Duro in this scale, but I think I've nearly got the knack!

Manfred - I took a toothpick and added a small blob of Duro. Once hardened, I began to just suggest the shape of the face. Once dried, the back was built out and the overall proportions firmed up.

everything else was added in about 4 applications of seriously micro amounts of the stuff. If I add Duro to wet Duro, I can't blend at all, and get a seam where the putty distorts the layer underneath. I have no problems smoothing fresh Duro into cured Duro.

The head method was based on Gael Goumon's article I posted a link to a while back. If needed I'll repost it.

HTH

Rob

 

[Manfred]

THAT article started it all *points the finger of blame on Rob* :lol:

I too start with a toothpick. I do a rough skull/muscle blob and let it harden.
Afterwards I start the face like a face mask. Then I fill the back of the head. However as I try to put on the nose and eyes which are just suggested in the first round I usually run into trouble.
Some sculptors add FIMO to the Duro which softens it and lengthens the curing time.
It also blends better.
However Fimo dislikes enamel or oil paints and I can't paint well enough yet with acrylics.

So I thought that maybe you would do the head all at once save the ears