A wash & a primer question

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mikec55

PlanetFigure Supporter
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
562
Location
Portage, Ind
Good morning all,

One of my current projects is the Andrea crossbowman. He's got a little bit of armor here & there but I just primed the whole thing with a coat of Krylon spray on primer, which is all I've ever used. After reading Roc's technique he used on his Gothic knight's armor & seeing the outstanding results, I'd like to know what's a good brush on primer to use? Next figure with a little armor I do, I'll try the burnishing/steel wool method but everything else still needs to be primed. Also, regarding the Citidel brand washes, basically used on Warhammer war gaming figures, they sometimes seem to go on a little gloppy, not as smoothly flowing as I'd like. Do they go bad over time or do I need to add a little water to thin 'em out? I've got a feeling these questions have been answered somewhere in the forum already but now that I'm paying attention to the information I can't find it.

Thanks, Mike
 
Hi Mike,

I use some of the citadel washes myself and i use a small palette cup to thin it out so it flows better.
As for brush on primer i wouldn't mind knowing that myself;i stocked up on Floquil military colors when that line was discontinued and they had a great light grey primer and brushes on nicely but unfortunaletly my supply is dwindling.
 
Mike

I seem to recall from an article somewhere that a modeller primed his models by spraying a primer into a cup (or whatever) the thinning the resultant liquid paint and brush priming with that. May have been Bill Horan.

An idea anyway

Rob
 
Hello Thomas,
Floquil still makes their primer only in their Model Railroad paints. Same primer as the Military Colors, just a little bigger bottle. Most of the Military colors will cross over to the Railroad colors. I have used Floquil paints for years and as my Military colors have been used up, I cross them to the Railroad line.

guy
 
Mike,

You actually have a few options. As mentioned, the Floquil is good stuff but I find it to smell too strong and also dry too quick. As also mentioned, you can spray primer into a cup-but that also dries quickly and stinks and if you're not careful can spray back in your face. I've tried Winsor and Newton's Foundation White which comes in a pint size can as opposed to a tube. Although intended for canvas, when thinned it works great on metals. The method I have found to be most useful (cause I hate brush marks) is to get your hands on some masking fluid, coat the areas of the figure you would like to keep the metal finish on with a brush and spray it like you normally do. Once dry, simply peel the mask off and viola! You have bare metal and primed cloth/flesh. I would practise on scrap first and get one that has a color to it so you know you covered everything - the type that dries clear can cause youto miss spots, also be careful to peel all of it off when you're done with it. Otherwise it works great and it is relatively easy and time saving compared to hand priming.

Lou
 
I have used Floquil Reefer white, thinned with Diosol for years. I always brush it on and never use a spray. I used to buy it by the six pack from Micromark.
A primer which I now use is sold at Home Depot: Painter's Touch Flat White Latex.
It is very durable and dries very matte. I use the small 1/2 pint cans. Doug Cohen uses the spray cans. I also tried Rust Oleum Enamel Flat White in the 1/2 oz can.
 
Thanks to everyone for the good advice. All the methods are time tested so I can't go wrong but I think Lou's idea about the masking fluid looks good if I can justfind the stuff somewhere. Thanks again. :)

Mike
 
Mike-

Vallejo makes a pretty good latex masking fluid. Comes off easy by peeling with a tooth pick. Comes in the same size bottles as their paints. I don't have the number handy, tho.

Keith
 
Hello all, I just bought a bottle of Susan Schwee (?) blue masking fluid. Has anyone ever used this stuff? I'll let you know how well it works.

Mike
 

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