Apoxie Clay

[Calvin]

Hi,
I'm doing some practice heads using the Apoxie (2-part) Clay, the white colour.
Maybe due to the high % of humidity (I'm really near to the sea), I noticed that the clay, even after 15/20h, still remains soft, compact but soft.
On the opposite, placing it under a 60W bulb lamp for an hour, that clay goes really strong, always compact (not crumbly like the porcelain), but much more strong than the Magic Sculpt, something like the A+B, if not more.
Have you noticed the same ? If I can find an intermediate point, I think it's perfect for carving with a cutter (while still soft) and for sanding (while strong).
The only drawback I see is that such clay is really sticky, at least while mixing it, but after mixed it goes well simply using some water.
Any advice is welcome.

 

[Dan Morton]

I've never used Apoxie, but when my current batch of Magicsculpt is used up, I'm going to try it.

You know, we should put together a "best practices" type of info sheet on all the different media in use. Some things work well with one type of media but are a disaster with others. I'm thinking of nothing particularly elaborate here - just a bullet list - but it would represent the collective wisdom of pF. For example,

Magicsculpt
- avoid using water, instead use hand lotion to smooth the surface. Although water will smooth Magicsculpt, it also causes separation and forming small white specks that detract from a clean work surface. Water run-off will cause white grainy smears and stains.
- if either component is stiff or there is a yellowish crust forming on it, skim the crust off and then heat in microwave for 2 or 3 minutes until warm and soft, then knead thoroughly
- always use the smallest amount of putty possible and keep in mind that most of us overestimate

What do you think?

All the best,
Dan

 

[Augie]

Ciao Luca,

Humidity should not be a factor. In fact, both Apoxie Sculpt and Apoxie Clay will cure under water.

Based on your "symptoms", I would say that you have not mixed the two parts thoroughly enough. You've obviously mixed it well enough to effect an "assisted" cure, but not enough to have the product cure on it's own.

Aves recommends thoroughly kneading for 1.5-2 minutes. I have found that "folding, rolling, and smearing" repeatedly in the palm of my hand for about a minute is more than adequate.

As to the "snottiness" upon mixing, it's about average for this product. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes post-mixing, and it should be manageable to handle.

HTH!

A~

 

[Calvin]

Dan, I remember some kind of reference sheet about the various types of putty (seen on the web). If I can find it again, I'll post it.

Augie, grazie, sai che i tuoi consigli sono sempre apprezzati. I think you are right, I was mixing a big blob of clay, maybe too big to mix it well. In fact, as you can see by the attached picture, the result of the not so mixed/cured putty resembles the Duro consistency. Yes, I see that waiting a few minutes before working it can help.

That clay is a bit more porous than the Magic Sculpt, it remebers me the Milliput or the Andrea Sculpt. Never used a clay before, but I really like it. It's easy to work, even using water (which generally transforms the Magic Sculpt on pure slush) and can be modelled better due to its consistency. Not tested yet on small details, but for busts it seems perfect.

 

[Augie]

Piacere, caro. No hay de qué. . .

Yep, that's it! One has to be careful when mixing relatively large quantities. What I usually do is get the two blobs mixed together for about 30 seconds; then I'll split them into more manageable sections, mixing each of these individually for about minute; and then I'll recombine everything, mixing this for another minute.

A-Clay is superior to A-Sculpt for small, detail work. Of course, this is entirely relative, but I prefer it for those nit-picky applications (tareas minuciosas).

Un gran ciao!

A~

 

[Einion]

Originally posted by Calvin+Dec 12 2005, 12:05 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Calvin @ Dec 12 2005, 12:05 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>I noticed that the clay, even after 15/20h, still remains soft, compact but soft.[/b]

I think many clay-like epoxy compounds go through a similar stage.

Originally posted by Calvin@Dec 12 2005, 12:05 PM
On the opposite, placing it under a 60W bulb lamp for an hour, that clay goes really strong, always compact (not crumbly like the porcelain),

From what I've seen with epoxy putties like this, MagicSculp being the one I've used the most, the complete cure time is quite a bit longer than is usually supposed - well over triple the hardening time, just like with many paints and primers incidentally. Depending on the temperature and just how accurately I measured the two parts, it takes at least a day (sometimes longer) to get that 'hard tap' when the putty is fully hardened.

Originally posted by Calvin@Dec 12 2005, 12:05 PM
...but much more strong than the Magic Sculpt, something like the A+B, if not more.

I've found this too, AS is initially softer and stickier than MS but ends up harder.

<!--QuoteBegin-Calvin@Dec 12 2005, 12:05 PM
If I can find an intermediate point, I think it's perfect for carving with a cutter (while still soft) and for sanding (while strong).[/quote]
If I can I use exactly this property when making my heads, which require a lot of paring/carving before the finishing stages; it's a lot less effort if the putty is hardened to a sort of rubbery/plasticy solidity, although if there are any finished areas they can get softened slightly by firm handling during this period.

Heat will accelerate the curing reaction but from a few tests I've run I don't think it affects the final hardness, it just gets you to that stage a lot faster; since heating won't do any harm there's no reason not to do it for insurance if one wants to. I once had a head which was a little rubbery - I think I didn't have the proportions quite right plus it was cold too - and I thought it was too soft to use but about three or four days later it was quite hard (although not as strong as it could have been) and it became one of my commercial masters.

Apoxie Sculpt appears to be very forgiving of shorter mixing times and varied proportions of resin and hardener {just like MS) but thorough mixing is a very good idea if you're playing with the proportions a bit.

Einion