Boonie hat advice needed,Help please guys

[Mookie]

Dear Friends.
Im not what you call a sculptor in any shape or form more like a convertor.I do a few bits n bobs pushing putty around on figure projects.Anyway im keen to make a jungle hat worn by u.s special forces in vietnam say by L.R.R.P.S,and also Australian s.a.s.Ive seen some in tiger stripe cam etc.
My predicament is how to ATTEMPT to make one for figures.I notice that these hats have a circular pattern of stitching around the hat brim.Has anybody any good advice or pointers how i could depict this in 1.16th and larger scales?.
Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Happy modelling to you all from Richard​

maximus37, Today at 9:47 AMEditReport

 

[housecarl]

I'd start with a disc of either plasticard or lead foil and work from there Richard.
Carl.

 

[Mookie]

Hi Carl.
Thanks for replying.Will have a bash with some paper thin plasticard me thinks.Thinkng depicting the stitching around the brim will cause a few choice words to be uttered im sure!!.
Cheers.

 

[Mirofsoft]

Yes but plastic card is rigid, I would prefer lead foil

 

[Pepperpot]

There is a tutorial about making Banners from some Kind of thermofoil/ -plastic, which gets rigid after it is cooled down. Maybe you can use that material for your hat?
http://masterminis.blogspot.de/2012/08/make-your-own-friggin-awesome-banners.html

 

[Mookie]

Thanks guys for your imput.Will try a few things and fingers crossed and with a following wind we might get somewhere.If my attempts turn out well then i think an Rtv mould is in order.
Cheers from Richard

 

[JasonB]

This is how I did it
First I use Magic Sculp. Mix up a blob and roll it out flat. Wait for it to stiffen up a bit. A lot actually. Once its the right stiffness (stiff enough to handle but still flexible) cut it to size and add the stitching pattern with either the tip of an exacto knife, a needle, or even one of those rivet tools that airplane modelers use. BTW, the pattern isn't just around the edge of the brim, there are multiple rows of stitching. Once the pattern is complete, let the putty set up until its just flexible enough to shape the wrinkles and folds in it using the handle of a paint brush, toothpick or sculpting tool to push up the folds. You can hold the center down with your finger, since that will be covered with the crown of the hat. Once you have the folds as you like them, let it set up completely . When its hardened, add the crown with more putty. It took me a couple of tries but I managed it. Experience with Magic Sculp is helpful so that you know exactly when to start the pattern and when you can handle it safely without ruining the pattern.

 

[Mookie]

Wow thanks Jason i will certainly try your method.I guess the problem would be to get the stitches around the brim equal size and even?.
Cheers from Richard

 

[JasonB]

Wow thanks Jason i will certainly try your method.I guess the problem would be to get the stitches around the brim equal size and even?.
Cheers from Richard

Thats where something like the ponce wheel/riveting tool helps. Truthfully, after everything is painted, especially if you do a camo scheme, the stitch spacing won't be very noticeable at all. The row spacing being somewhat equal is more noticeable. Instead of individual stitches, you could probably just do an indented ring, stitches in anything smaller than 1/9 scale in truth would not be seen, just the indentation they make. In 1/16 scale it looks more like a continuous ring, not dot-dot-dot.
Cheers
Jason

 

[Einion]

I think Jason's method is the way to do this Richard, especially at larger scales where you'll want some actual 3D texture to the seaming. At smaller scales you may be able to get away with painting the illusion of them, as we do on most clothing seams, in which case lead foil is worth trying too.

Einion

 

[Mookie]

Dear Jason and Einion.
Thanking you both for your help with my attempt at a boonie hat.Shall try a couple of methods and see how i get on.Hoping i can do the thing justice with my limited skills so far.
All the best from Richard