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brian

A Fixture
Joined
Jun 5, 2004
Messages
4,786
Location
scotland
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Just got round to photographing figures i've done in the past.If anyone is interested
i occasionally sell some of my figures to collectors
Happy New Year
Brian
 
hi brian. just great. i'm new to pf and hobby. i've painted 4 models, well it's the same one 4 times.oven cleaner you know a tip i picked up off this site. i have a mongul and love the the way you did the coat on this one. i am trying to use oil's any chance on a run down how you got this effect. thanks dave.
 
Hi Dave
I covered the coat in a thinned down Milliput and water mix the same consistancy as the gunge at the bottom of a bar of soap Then stippled it until i got the effect i was after Once dry i painted the coat with a mixture of yellow ochre, sap green and raw umber,highlighting with more yellow ochre added to the basic mix and shaded with more raw umber
Hope this helps
Brian
 
Brian, I loved the way your groundwork turned out on the WWI German and Mongul. Please share details on how you achieved the snow effect and the muddy effect in detail. I would greatly appreciate it as I am working on two figures that have similar groundwork and both snow and mud are new areas for me.

Best of Everything in 2005,

Terry Martin
Atlanta Miliatary Figure Society
 
Dear Brian,

Both figures are very well done. I particularly like the texturing that you did to the mongul warrior's coat.

regards :)
 
Hi Terry
The ww1 figure is a bog standard Metal Models figure the one wearing the picklehaub helmet but you get two heads with the figure and i opted for this one
The only changes i made was to re-position the head and left hand.
The groundwork for him was milliput played about with when still soft until i got a muddy looking terrain.Then i undercoated it with a dark brown enamel and then applied burnt umber oil paint highlighted with yellow ochre and shaded with ivory black then i applied thinned liquin over the entire groundwork and used neat liquin in the holes and ruts in the ground.You should be left with the ground being overall damp looking but really wet in the depressed areas
I finished it all off with a balsa wood fence post and some rust painted barbed wire from Verlinden
The Mongols groundwork was pretty straight forward just model the terrain your after then apply thinned white glue and sprinkle on Hudson and Allens Snow you can also use lumps of white glue if you want the snow to have realistic contours
and then add the snow. I've used all types of snow techniques in the past but find the above to be my favourite
Hope this helps
Brian
 
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