Cleaning Metal Figs With Brush?

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Hello Keith,
I have never cleaned up a figure like you have with a dremel and I wonder if you really need to. I usually file seam lines and steel wool any small scratch lines and then reach for the primer bottle. Only with resin do you need to clean and wash to get the mold release off.. If I were you, go over the figure where the small scratches are with an extra fine steel wool or sanding pad.

Guy
 
Keith,

I've always seen 'old-timers' using the Dremel/steel wire brush on their metal figures. Looks a bit extreme to me.

If I were you, I'd try the FINE wire brushes they use for cleaning electrical connections on car batteries. It's the same material and at least, you'd have some control over the areas you want to clean up.

The idea is to produce mini-scratches to help the primer 'cling' to the metal. They should be invisible under the first coat of primer.

Good luck (y)

Quang
 
I think the trick to keeping the scratches to a minimum with the Dremel method is to use a brush bit that is older to the point that the bristles are laying down. If you use a new brush it will not only leave scratches, it will remove detail, like an entire face.
 
Originally posted by KeithP@Dec 1 2003, 10:11 AM
Gordy-

Yes. You are right. I had been using the "bad" green sctoch brite. Next trip to the hardware store, I'll get a few of these and add them to my growing arsenal.

Keith
That happens, people recoil when i mention scotch-brite they think of that green stuff they tried and wonder if i was smoking crack when i suggested they try it!

the green stuff is for getting dried food off of pots and pans!

i use the maroon(worn) on a 54mm hands made of milliput so it must be safe ;)
 
I use the green Scotch-Brite pads quite a bit too. I also picked up some of the white ones (Off-brand) that are very fine. They're great for final polishing.
 
Hi
After you have removed seam lines and taken care of any
imperfections.
Toothpaste applied on a medium nylon toothbrush,
will remove any scratches caused by other abrasive material
used during cleanup.

Frank (y)
 
Hello to all!

This is my first opportunity to add my two cents to the planetFigure forum. I have been following some of the techniques used to clean metal figures. I am very happy to share a technique that I use to clean metal figures. A technique I have developed for myself and have used it for quite sometime with very positive results. After removing seam lines with #11 and #16 X-acto blades, I use a pre-mixed slurry of liquid hand soap and ground pumice to scrub away any surface oxidation and tool marks along with an old military issue APB brush. After scrubbing, I rinse the figure or individual parts off and use a fine nylon brush in a Dremel to lightly buff the surface. This technique works great and doesn't destroy detail. Also, it is non-toxic if you have little ones around.
Ground pumice stone is a very fine abrasive used in furniture finishing to achieve a smooth surface on shellac and varnish. The liquid hand soap acts as a lubricant for the pumice and is very easily rinsed off the figure after scubbing. I obtain my pumice from a woodworking store, but I think you may find it at the big home center stores or your local hardware store. I pre-mix a thick slurry in a spare paint jar.

Goodluck with this technique!

Dave Neary (warriorpoet)
 
Dave,

Thanks for the pumice tip. (y) I'll try it out.

I regularly use a commercial 'paste hand soap' (allegedly for easy removal of grease, dried paint,...). It's a thick paste with some sand texture in it. Could it just be your liquid hand soap with some pumice added?

Quang
 
gordy Posted on Dec 1 2003, 10:05 AM
Keith, that wouldn't be the green Scotch-Brite you get from the grocery store would it? if so that's the "bad" stuff...

OOP's, I've been using the bad stuff as well Thanks for the tip Gordy, I'll look out for the good stuff
 
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