Colour Wheels... worth it?

planetFigure

Help Support planetFigure:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jerryCashman

Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2007
Messages
9
Newbie here guys...

I've just started a figure (Commonwealth WW2 in 1/35)... I've put the acrylic undercoat on and am about to open the oils... but am a little intimidated when it comes to working out how to mix the colours I need...

Acrylics are easy... you just open the bottle labeled 'British Khaki' and you are sweet...

I can't find a tube of artists oils with similar markings however :)

So I'm wondering if one of those colour wheels I've seen in the art shops would help me get a basic mix right to start with... ?

What do others user (other than 'experience' which isn't a help to me :)

cheers. Jerry

Jerry Cashman
Canberra. Oz.
 
Jerry,
I think a color wheel would be helpful but even better would be one of the books available out there (some have been mentioned on this site recently) on color recipes. As an oil painter, I can tell you that learning to proficiently mix oils is an art in itself and though it's not what you want to hear, there is no substitute for experience. As I stated, I'm an oil painter but I find myself lately using acrylics more and more and really liking them. So, this leads me to the question: why don't you just stick with acrylics? They are in many ways easier and I think better suited than oils for small scale figures (i. e. 1/35 which you are working with).

Jason
 
When it comes to oils, you to go with trial and error. The good news is that you can wipe it off and start again. IMO, oils are better for larger figures especially faces, but they are excellent for things like leather too.

Do a search and you will find many threads that will help you out. I learned that you have to find your own style and be happy with it.

Just my 2 cents.

Rocky
 
I use it very much.
It helps you with your mix for shading and highlighting.
What you wanted to do with the color wheel is how to mix colors. I believe that is not where it is designed for. But i can be wrong. There are good books and i also recommend the CD from Konrad Schulte titled how do i paint and his color mixes.
That's a great resource....

marc
 
Hi Jerry,

Welcome to the Planet mate. As you've already discovered everyone here is very eager to offer help and assistance, and you'll inspired by seeing some truly talented artists reveal their secrets.

If you can find a colour wheel in an artists supply store, buy it. It will be one of the best investments you'll ever make, and should save you some grey hairs too!!

Cheers
 
While I do agree that a color wheel is a very good and useful thing, I'm not sure how much help it will be in matching a color.

When I am trying to mix a color to match a uniform pate, etc. I start with a single pigment red, yellow and blue, then titanim white and burnt umber. I try to categorize the target color as a variation on one of these, then start mixing. I use an acetate sheet over the plate and paint on my mixes and adjust as necessary until its a match. Match the color value first, then the hue.

This process implies some understanding of color theory, so the wheel does help in guiding you. For example, if your mix is too green, add the compliment red. But you have to "SWAG" in the starting point before the wheel helps.

I'm guessing "English Uniform" is a light brown or khaki color, so I'd probably mix yellow and burnt umber to start. Get the value right then go for the hue.

Hope this helps.
 
jerryCashman said:
So I'm wondering if one of those colour wheels I've seen in the art shops would help me get a basic mix right to start with... ?
Most won't I'm afraid Jerry.

Some colour wheels are very inexpensive, so they are worth picking up for reference - note: don't buy one unless it has cyan and magenta on it - but colour wheels are very poor predictors of mixing behaviour*.

jerryCashman said:
What do others user (other than 'experience' which isn't a help to me :)
Unfortunately a lot of this kind of stuff is something you have to pick up piecemeal over time. Colour mixing is a tricky area and there's a lot more subjectivity than you might think; most hobbyist painters have their own ways of working, that don't follow 'rules' that others would follow.

*This is because paints aren't colours - that's why two different yellows and two different reds, that look alike, can mix very different oranges. Colour wheels also don't generally guide to darker and/or duller colour, which is practically what practical colour mixing is all about! If you think about the fact that your coffee with milk in it is actually orange you begin to see the limitation of the average colour wheel in telling you stuff you need to know :)

A good basic guide like the one mentioned in this previous thread is a better starting point.

Einion
 
A worthwhile investment, but it won't help you to achieve your goal - mix to match an existing paint chip, or photo, either of which could have a large varience in consistency. I purchased my color wheel to help in identifying complimentary shades for highlights and shadow - this was brought on after reading an old master's book by Henri Lyon, where he used purple w/ burnt umber to shade bleached linen riding crops. The colorwheel helps me to 'think outside the box' on color usage.

Good Luck!
Bruce
 
Thanks very much guys... a can of worms no doubt... but thanks very much all the same! I picked up an interesting book from an art shop called "Color Mixing Recipes" which even I can understand, so I'll dive in and have a go...

cheers. Jerry.
 
I've experienced the problem of trying to mix a colour like "British Khaki" from artist's oils. I also hit upon a solution that has worked well for me. Why not use oil based Humbrol paint (which have pre-mixed colours like Khaki) and mix in some of the artists oils for shadows and highlights. i.e. Humbrol khaki with a burnt umber or sepia, and lamp black for shadows. One of the advantages to this approach is reduced drying times, but don't expect the matt finish of a pure humbrol coat of paint. I've also found that these paints blend nicely if you use a stipling brush stroke, so you get that advantage as well. It might save you the time of trying to get that perfect colour mixed, especially if you spread a painting session out over a day or two and need to get the same colour mix again.
 
Back
Top