decal size

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samson

A Fixture
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
1,796
Hi all what do you think is the decal to large ? It's hard for me to tell. I haven't weathered the helmet or skull yet . A little thing called life keeps getting in the way Lol
Studio_20150112_172709-1.jpg
 
If you darken or weather it, it will not appear as big.........the whjite reflects more light back, so appears bigger, even though it ain't.
 
Can't wait to see the rest, under the helmet...

Your decal is suffering from the 'silvering' problem, i.e. there is a space between the film and the helmet painted surface. This happens in general when the surface is matt, so the film doesn't conform well to the surface. The results is that we can tell there is decal. We can see its outlines clearly. The best would be to start over, and coat the surface with a gloss (or semi-gloss) varnish before the new decal. If no spare decal, trim out the existing film until the white cross, and seal what remains with a layer of matt varnish (for protection).

Good luck,

Patrick
 
Can't wait to see the rest, under the helmet...

Your decal is suffering from the 'silvering' problem, i.e. there is a space between the film and the helmet painted surface. This happens in general when the surface is matt, so the film doesn't conform well to the surface. The results is that we can tell there is decal. We can see its outlines clearly. The best would be to start over, and coat the surface with a gloss (or semi-gloss) varnish before the new decal. If no spare decal, trim out the existing film until the white cross, and seal what remains with a layer of matt varnish (for protection).

Good luck,

Patrick

Amen, Patrick!

If I may expand on the suggestion to lay down a gloss layer, this is what many of us scale modelers use Future for. I recommend it highly.

Prost!
Brad
 
Thank you for the tip on the gloss coat . I tried to go over it with micro so but I can still see the edges . I Will try gloss overcoat. if that doesn't work I will scratch them off spray a gloss coat then decal then second gloss coat to blend it in thanks for the tips
 
Another word of caution: avoid the buildup of too many gloss or matt coats. I've seen aircraft models with too many of these, and you get a funny impression that you're looking at the piece through a glass window, with the decals floating around. It's hard to describe. Anyway, try and experiment - always the best advice. Armor modellers sometimes locally polish the last paint coat to a semi-gloss finish to avoid the gloss coat. They have so little decals, they don't bother with an overall gloss coat before decalling. They use only a matt coat to isolate/protect the paint from the (sometimes) aggressive weathering and filters operations.

Another word of advice: The contrast between the white cross and the helmet paint may be too stark. You can cut it down by using a filter (or glaze).

A white cross on a german helmet? What is it? An insurgent in 1944 in Warsaw?

Cheers,

Patrick
 
When ever I use decals I cut as close as I can to just the actual number, letter, design or what ever so that I don't have all that extra transparent edging like you have around the cross . It takes a little more care to apply but after it's on then you don't have the problem of trying to hide the that glossy clear transfer .
chippy
 
Thanks for the info . It's funny I have done auto model's before and not had that happen. Better to be lucky than good lol
 
The best for me is a tin coat of Future (or the new Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish) ,decal with softner,and again Future to seal te decal,no more silvering and you can make any washing etc...you want
 
If it is a flat paint surface then an old model Aircraft decal trick will work. Put on a layer of diluted white glue before laying down the decal and the decal will not silver and will also stick better. I use this for all water decals regardless of the the gloss/type of the paint. Also use decal set also. You can also paint where it is silver with the helmet colour and that will hide a lot of it.
Cheers
John
 

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