Different brushes for different mediums?

[Russ]

Hey, all -

Since I got into painting busts, I've completed six. My general process is to zenithal prime with black, then white, acrylic spray cans. Then I'll lay in the base colors with acrylics, followed by mostly oils for shading, highlighting, and finish work. I do, however, tend toward acrylics for details like beads, laces, and so on. I have a set of W&N S.7 brushes I've not yet used.

BUT - my real question is: Given the different mediums, should I consider using two sets of brushes? One for acrylics and water thinner/cleaner, and another for oils and turps?

OR - if I'm good about my cleaning regimen, and allow the brushes to dry thoroughly between uses, can I continue to use one set of brushes?

Thanks for any tips, advice, and tips!

 

[Nap]

Hi Russ

I only use Acrylics but for me definately use separate brushes and containers

I always clean brushes after use , repoint and store upright

You might like to look at water soluble oils which I do use and mix with Acrylics

Just my thoughts

Nap

 

[Blind Pew]

Russ, you've done it again and asked a really good question. I know for sure that the brush manufacturers do make brushes for specific mediums.

The million dollar question is, though, whether I've actually noticed, in decades of modelling, any difference. And I have to say that I haven't. I use brushes for acrylics and oils and have switched between the two without any obvious dip in results. I've never (to my knowledge) used specific watercolour brushes and I probably would steer clear.

Nap's advice about care for your brushes is 100% sound. I only differ in that I don't store brushes upright.

I always say, top brushes won't make you a top painter. But you'll never be a top painter without top brushes.

 

[NigelR]

I use acrylics, oils and enamel-based products when I paint figures. I use the same brushes for everything without any issues. There is no difference IMO in the medium you are using, you need the right brush for the job. Obviously some mediums require specific brushes depending on the technique, for example I know some people use filberts for blending oils on figures. I was also using a filbert yesterday for blending an enamel-based streaking grime on my trench mortar. But I don't use a filbert when painting figures in acrylics.

There's no way I could be organised enough to keep several sets of brushes for different media. And it would be way too expensive.

Just buy good quality brushes and look after them. They will last a long time - you can't beat Series 7 IMO. However, for specific tasks like dry brushing and blending that will take a toll on the brushes, I buy cheaper brands for that. Anyway you can't get things like filberts in the Series 7 range.

 

[Russ]

SIDE QUESTION:

"I know for sure that the brush manufacturers do make brushes for specific mediums."

I've noticed that different lines are advertised - online and IRL - as for watercolor, acrylic, oil, etc. In fact, that's one reason for my original question. But I'm unclear on what the material or structural differences actually are; can anyone shed any light on the diff between a brush designed for one medium vs. another? OR, is it actually a marketing ploy to sell more brushes?

 

[NigelR]

The different "media" brushes are aimed at "proper" artists who paint pictures with a much larger surface area than a miniature figure or bust. There are some alleged differences about how they will hold the paint, as water colours are very different to oil colours. I can see that a softer bristle is more applicable to watercolours whereas a harder bristle (like hogs hair) may be more suited to oil colours, which you work a lot harder than watercolours. Also if you are painting on canvas t hat has a much rougher surface than paper, so you will need a stiffer brush. But they are all still brushes and it's largely marketing as far as I can see. Most of the ranges that are marketed as one thing usually say "can also be used with other media".

For what we do, you need the best quality Kolinsky sable brushes you can afford. It's as simple as that. We need brushes that hold their shape and can paint very fine detail. Kolinsky sable brushes do that best. Synthetic brushes cannot hold a point with the precision we need.

For specialist tasks, like undercoating, dry brushing, painting groundwork etc you can use cheaper synthetic brushes. Also, if you paint textures (an increasingly popular style) you will need cheaper brushes for that as you will destroy the points of your brushes pretty quickly. Mike Butler describes this approach (and the different types of brushes he uses) in his book on painting WWI Allied figures.

 

[Larsen E. Whipsnade]

I don't believe you need separate brushes for acrylic and oil. I've been using the same set W&N Series 7 brushes for two years. Expensive? Yes, but they're as good today as the first day they came out of the box. IMO the secret behind keeping your brushes intact, whether for acrylic or oil, is to clean them thoroughly after each use AND to store your brushes bristles facing down so any residue remaining from cleaning drips out of the brush, not into the ferrule where it can build up over time an destroy the bush. I cobbled this drying rack together from scrap I had lying around the shop.

PS And Nigel's suggestion to use cheap brushes for dry brushing, etc. is a good one.

 

[theBaron]

I reserve my Kolinsky sables for painting figures with water-based acrylics. I have other sable and natural hair brushes, and I use those with paints that thin with harsher solvents than water, and on scale models as well as on figures. And I have some generic synthetics for grunt work.

Prost!
Brad

 

[theBaron]

...I cobbled this drying rack together ...

Is that a piece of Prins August casting metal I see under your brush rack, Larsen? Do you cast, too?

Prost!
Brad

 

[NigelR]

I reserve my Kolinsky sables for painting figures with water-based acrylics. I have other sable and natural hair brushes, and I use those with paints that thin with harsher solvents than water, and on scale models as well as on figures. And I have some generic synthetics for grunt work.

I've been using W&N Series 7 with white spirit and enamel thinners for many years and have never had any problems. I've even subjected some of my old Series 7 brushes to heavy duty brush cleaner and they've come out of it good as new. They are superb.

But I do have some cheaper sable brushes that I use for some tasks. For example, today I was applying mud weathering to figures using a "dotting" technique. I used a cheaper brand sable for that as it damages the point but I still needed the fine point of a sable brush.

I think I've come to the conclusion from this discussion that the paint medium is less important in your choice of brush than the techniques you are going to use.

 

[NigelR]

Hey, all -
OR - if I'm good about my cleaning regimen, and allow the brushes to dry thoroughly between uses, can I continue to use one set of brushes?

I just noticed this in your original post. This sounds like a great approach. However, I just give my brushes a quick swish in a jar of (what was once clean) water if painting with acrylics and a wipe on a (what was once clean) cloth. I might then switch to oils for some reason, so I dive straight in with the same brush, do whatever I need to do, give it a quick rinse in a small jar of odourless enamel thinners, a quick wipe on said cloth and then back to acrylics.

On my most recent project I've been constantly switching between acrylics, oils and enamel-based products with the same brush without any issues. No need to let them dry or anything like that. Just clean, wipe, reshape the point on the back of your hand and off you go

 

[NigelR]

And here's someone that doesn't agree you need good quality sable brushes.......

https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/spartan-hoplites-75mm.532874/

 

[Larsen E. Whipsnade]

Is that a piece of Prins August casting metal I see under your brush rack, Larsen? Do you cast, too?

Prost!
Brad

Hey Brad, it is Prince August casting metal but it's been a few years since I did any casting. The last thing I casted was their Napoleonic Chess Set.
Rick

 

[theBaron]

Hi, Rick! I have their Seven Years War molds, and a bunch of the 40mm 18th century wargame figures. I haven't cast with mine in a long time, either. PA were the first molds I bought, when I learned that such molds were available. Before that, I had bought the odd Schneider mold or two at flea markets. Later I bought reproduction Schneider molds from Hohmann in Germany. Very well tooled and they produce nice, crisp castings. Most recently, I bought a couple of molds from Nowikoff in Germany. Now that the weather is getting warmer, I'll have to set up my casting station out in the garage and cast some new ones.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Larsen E. Whipsnade]

Hi, Rick! I have their Seven Years War molds, and a bunch of the 40mm 18th century wargame figures. I haven't cast with mine in a long time, either. PA were the first molds I bought, when I learned that such molds were available. Before that, I had bought the odd Schneider mold or two at flea markets. Later I bought reproduction Schneider molds from Hohmann in Germany. Very well tooled and they produce nice, crisp castings. Most recently, I bought a couple of molds from Nowikoff in Germany. Now that the weather is getting warmer, I'll have to set up my casting station out in the garage and cast some new ones.

Prost!
Brad

Brad, stop! You're giving me ideas. But casting is a lot of fun and satisfying in a way. Hmmm, I may have to dig out my casting stuff....
Rick