godfather
Well-Known Member
Do you folks use any specific type of drill (i.e metal composition) bit when drilling metal figures? I have a five speed dremel is it better to drill at high speed 3+ or low speed?
drill bits and dremel question
- Thread starter godfather
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Major_Goose
A Fixture
In resin i drill medium to fast in metal i dril slow. And i use mostly drill bits for metal
Luis R.
A Fixture
When drilling metal, I always use a hand drill. Powered drill's speed, even set at it's lowest, builts up heat that will melt the metal and clog the drill bit. The part/figure will then spin uncontrolled and the drill bit will break.
I use an electric drill that i got from an electronics shop. It doesn't have any speeds and it spins always with the same speed. Before i drill a particular part of a figure (mainly feet) i open with my modelling knife a small hole so the drill bit have a starting driver and doesn't spin uncontrollable.
I also drill as far as the drill bit goes.When it stops, i take it out, push it back in and drill again, till i get the deside depth.
Xenofon
I also drill as far as the drill bit goes.When it stops, i take it out, push it back in and drill again, till i get the deside depth.
Xenofon
Jim Hockett
Well-Known Member
When drilling a metal figure, I use a fairly slow speed. The most important thing is to fequently pull the drill out to clear the chips. Another thing that is helpful is to lubricate your drill bit. Light oil will work, a cake of beeswax is handier. The best is a block of solid lubricant made for metal cutting. If you use burrs in your Dremel to clean up or modify figures, dipping them into the block occasionally will keep them from clogging up too.
Einion
A Fixture
If you're not drilling white metal for pinning by hand it should be done slowly as a general rule; let the bit do the work and don't press, patience is the key. I can't tell you the number of times I've screwed up doing this by being impatient :lol: Casting metals vary and some do have a very low melting point. It's a good idea to lubricate the bit if you're drilling to any depth, white spirit will work okay (it's technically classed as an oil) at very low revs and when you're done it will evaporate without leaving any residue that might prevent glue from adhering properly.
A particular kind of bit helps, when you've bought a few different sets over the years you'll see how much better some cut than others - the general-purpose bits sold for craft drills often don't cut that well compared with those made specifically for metal, plus the latter should be tougher anyway. High-speed drills are a good one to look for; the name refers to the steel, not the speed at which they should be used
Einion
A particular kind of bit helps, when you've bought a few different sets over the years you'll see how much better some cut than others - the general-purpose bits sold for craft drills often don't cut that well compared with those made specifically for metal, plus the latter should be tougher anyway. High-speed drills are a good one to look for; the name refers to the steel, not the speed at which they should be used
Einion
poetwarrior
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2003
- Messages
- 83
Roc,
A lot of great advice from everyone so far. I've found that Dremel drills, at least the older models, don't hold a true center. Meaning the rotation of the drill "wobbles" even after I've provided a pilot hole first with a sharp dental pick and ensuring the bit is seated properly in the drill. I use a Ryobi 7.0 volt rechargeable cordless and it seems to be a lot more accurate. Also, the variable speed of the drill is regulated by how far I depress the trigger. I find I'm able to start out slow then I can pickup rpms gradually depending upon the material or the location of the hole. When I drill holes for pinning the assembled figure or mounting a figure to a base I usually use a power drill, but for detail work I always use a hand drill.
Take care,
Dave Neary
A lot of great advice from everyone so far. I've found that Dremel drills, at least the older models, don't hold a true center. Meaning the rotation of the drill "wobbles" even after I've provided a pilot hole first with a sharp dental pick and ensuring the bit is seated properly in the drill. I use a Ryobi 7.0 volt rechargeable cordless and it seems to be a lot more accurate. Also, the variable speed of the drill is regulated by how far I depress the trigger. I find I'm able to start out slow then I can pickup rpms gradually depending upon the material or the location of the hole. When I drill holes for pinning the assembled figure or mounting a figure to a base I usually use a power drill, but for detail work I always use a hand drill.
Take care,
Dave Neary
PJ Deluhery
A Fixture
My Dremel has served me well. I use tungston bits, at a slow speed, lubricate the bit, and pause often to remove the shavings. It's important to keep your bits sharp. For very fine work, I still like to use a hand drill.
