Enamels as a primer on metal figures??

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Chrisr

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Jun 13, 2008
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As a very spasmodic figure painter (20 completed in 52 years :depressed:), plus several that have been through the Dettol bath, and await my less than deft hand, I am seeking advice from those who are more experienced in the hobby.

Of late I am making a greater effort (actually completed 4 in the last twelve months :joyful:) and have tried different painting mediums and techniques. I have settled on oils and water soluble oils, as my efforts at acrylics are less than satisfying. Currently I am priming metal figures, then blocking in the colours with enamels, and finishing with water soluble oils or oils (ie three layers). I read years ago that one reason for priming metal figures was that oils interact with white metal and leads to problems. Hence, my understanding is that you must use a primer first when painting with oils.

While I prime resin figures with enamels, can I do the same with metal figures, or being spirit based does it also lead to problems with white metal?
Regards
Chris
 
I suspect you can leave out the primer coat, I have been painting metal with oil paint for over 40 years and had no problems without priming.
I have never had paint attack the metal and I have painted hundreds of models.

I now prime because it is so easy to do with an aerosol or an airbrush so why not do it? Priming brings out the detail and provides a good solid base to work on.

I used to base coat with enamels but the quality of them is so poor now I undercoat with acrylics, then finish with oils.

Bill
 
I used to base coat with enamels but the quality of them is so poor now I undercoat with acrylics, then finish with oils.

Bill

Many thanks Bill. Your advice is much appreciated. If I may, what is the ratio of water to acrylic you use for the base coat? I found with a thin coat I had difficult getting an even spread on the figure using acrylics as a base coat.
Regards
Chris
 
I tend to use Vallejo model air as they are already diluted. I am, however, by no means an expert on acrylics.
One trick I have learned when building up layers is to use a small hairdryer to speed up drying between coats.

Bill
 
I prime everything, including my metal figures. Priming helps increase the odds of good adhesion for your finish coats, as well as providing a step in which you can inspect the surface more closely and find flaws that you might otherwise have missed.

As far as using an enamel primer goes, though I usually use Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer, which is a lacquer-based product; and I use some automotive primers occasionally, also lacquer-based; I also use Army Painter's matte black enamel as a primer. It cures rock-hard, and there are times when I want a black undercoat that not only promotes adhesion, but will hold up to specific weathering techniques later in the finishing process.

Most of my finish colors are water-based acrylics. Water-based acrylics don't generally adhere as well to the bare surface as enamels or lacquers do, and a primer definitely helps them adhere. It provides a surface with good "tooth" for those paints. Enamels and lacquers are hot enough chemically that they will adhere to resin and styrene well enough on their own, but I prime those materials for any medium, as a matter of practice.

Also, we should always note that "acrylic" doesn't mean "water-based" or "water-soluable". It refers to the chemistry of the carrier component of the liquid, and it can be water-based, an enamel, lacquer-based, or alcohol-based (eg, Tamiya's acrylics). That tells use what to use as a solvent for best results.

Hope that helps!
Prost!
Brad
 
Many thanks Brad. I was thinking of reducing the number of layers, but both Bill's and your advice re primers makes good sense.
regards
Chris
 
Sure thing! Yes, buildup and covering fine detail is always a concern, with figures as with scale models. It doesn't take much for a good primer coat, either.

Prost!
Brad
 

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