field grey

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vergilius

A Fixture
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Messages
3,612
Location
Antwerp
Hello gents and girls
I have a question to you all : I want to paint my first WO II figure. It 's a german 'kriegsberichter' (warcorrespondent) with a filmcamera.
I paint in oils and wondered if somebody can tell me what colours I have to mix to get a very nice field grey.
 
Patrick,
Deze heb ik van Pete Herrera
1. Base: 2 parts lamp black + 1 part raw umber + 1/2 part olive green + lighten with buff titanium.
Highlight: add buff titanium.
Shadow: add raw umber + a bit of lamp black.

2. Base: 1 raw umber + 1 payne's grey + 1/2 buff titanium.
Shadow: add payne's grey + raw umber
Highlight: add buff titanium or naples yellow.

3. Base: 1 payne's grey + 1 raw umber + 1 olive green + 1/2 naples yellow.
Shadow: add payne's grey + raw umber.
Highlight: add naples yellow.
Note: this mix results in a more greenish-looking shade of field grey than the previous formula.

Succes ermee.

marc
 
I paint in oils and wondered if somebody can tell me what colours I have to mix to get a very nice field grey.
There are lots of ways of mixing the same colour.

There are also lots of versions of field grey :)

One of the simplest ways of doing this is to mix a green and a grey (black + white) and blend the two mixtures together. Another route is yellow + blue + a red of some kind to neutralise it, with a little white added to lighten.

Einion
 
Trousers and shirts

I mix 2 parts black with 1 part white and 1 part burnt sienna for basecoat, and 1 extra part of burnt sienna for highlights, and an extra part black for shadows. There is a bit of green in the sienna which prevents it going into the brown/ mud/ grey range. :eek:

Don't forget that the quality of fabric used to manufacture German uniforms deteriorated throughout the war, so the "grey" will vary depending on what year of the war your figure is set in. Pre and early war uniforms were green-grey and they became progressively greyer as the war progressed.

Often the soldiers shirt will be a very different shade of grey from the pants, depending on the terrain, how long the soldier has been wearing them and his rank. The German Army, like every other army in history ensured its upper ranks wore uniforms made from the best materials:) , while the lower ranks got the cheapest and most abundant materials:( .

Most infantry soldiers go through 1-2 pairs of trousers for each shirt that needs to be replaced because of all the kneeling, crawling and scrambling on the ground and wading through water and mud etc etc. Therefore, as a general rule of thumb, soldiers trousers tend to be more faded, dirty and distressed than their shirts.

This might come in handy when you decide to paint your German figure, or any modern soldier figure for that matter. Hope this helps.:)

Cheers
 
Guys, let me please ask a maybe silly question (the content belongs to me for every colours):

I have noticed over the last year that mostly all paintes mix their unique painttones (like the german grey here, or flesh, greens, does not matter) by themselfs. When I look over the Vallejo paint range I see so many different mixes in every colour that I am wondering why mixing some tones by myself when it is nearly exact available?? And better yet: How to achieve my mixing effort (that might consist of 5 or 6 different colours) with my NEXT paintjob??

Frank
 
Hi Frank, most people who mix everything don't use hobby paints, they're using oils primarily so they have to mix uniform colours. I only have yellow, red, magenta, blue, green, black and white in the current range of paints I use for modelling so I have to mix everything :)

But there's nothing to stop someone using a pre-mixed colour from Vallejo, Andrea or any of the other makers of hobby paints if those are what you use and if it's the colour you want. Starting with a manufactured Field Grey you can always change it just a little with a drop of yellow, green or whatever, but how you highlight it and shade it will often be slightly different from another person so there's some variety there already.

As far as mixing a colour again exactly for a future model, no two field uniforms will generally be exactly the same so you can always mix from scratch each time; the slight variation between one figure and the next will be perfectly reasonable. But if you want multiple models to be the same colour the best way is to make written notes of the paints (and the proportions) that went into a mix. Or mix a large batch of the colour and store some of it in an airtight container for next time!

Einion
 
Hi Frank

Einion is absolutely right. Unless you have every single colour in the range, you will probably feel the need to create your own paint blends at various times.

Another reason why some modellers prefer to mix their own colours rather than rely entirely on pre-mixed commercial paint colours is because commercially produced colors differ significantly in terms of consistency, colour match and coverage.

German Grey in Vallejo Acylics will be slightly different to German Grey in Andrea Acylics, and will also differ from Humbrol enamel German Grey and Tamiya acrylic German Grey.:confused:

Some of these German Grey's will be quite thick and suitable for brush painting only, while others will be very thin and suitable for air brushing.

When I'm painting a particular colour, I will always check first to see if I have a commercial paint exactly the colour I want. If I don't, I will almost certainly try to make my own blend of paints to get an exact match.

In the end, it comes down to a personal choice for each modeler.:)

Cheers
 
Thanks Guys for those informative replies! I was just wondering... painting mostly self sculpted Monsters and Mayhem I go sometimes wild with the colours, but when it comes to Uniforms and after seeing all those differing paint jobs done by the modellers, I was worried about why and how. And yes, I guess, I have to play around with all the types of colours and brands!

Frank
 
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