Glossy oil paint.

[nautilas]

Hi everyone, i have just bought some winsor and newton artists matt varnish for my figures as i use oil paint and they dry shiney, what is the best way to apply them, by brush or airbrush or does anyone have a better way of getting a matt finish. roy.

 

[theBaron]

I use Dorland's artist's wax medium to mix into my oils, on the palette, to provide a matte finish, with varying amounts, based on the specific paint, and trial and error. Not sure about using it in an airbrush, though. I know there are those who have used oils in an airbursh, but it's a bit out of the ordinary. Not sure if you could use a wax medium in oils thinned for the airbrush, and still get the solution thinned enough not to clog the nozzle when spraying.

Prost!
Brad

PS--Sorry, on rereading, I'm not sure my post is that relevant, I'm really talking about another method of achieving a matte finish with oils, not specifically about using W&N's matte varnish.

I do use a matte varnish, but with scale models, over enamels and acrylics, and that's Testor's DulCote, right out of the can.

 

[Gary D]

One way to help get a dull finish with your oils is to let them soak on paper or cardboard for a couple of hours to help leach out the linsead oil. I believe it's linsead oil that is what makes the oils shiny. Another thing you can do is to use a dry box which is a wooden box with a light bulb in it where the figure is contained in a warm environment.

gary

 

[megroot]

One way to help get a dull finish with your oils is to let them soak on paper or cardboard for a couple of hours to help leach out the linsead oil. I believe it's linsead oil that is what makes the oils shiny. Another thing you can do is to use a dry box which is a wooden box with a light bulb in it where the figure is contained in a warm environment.
gary

I can only echo you Gary.

Marc

 

[gordy]

Putting your figure in a crockpot is another tried and true method, maybe some one can chime in with the specifics, temps and times =)

 

[Einion]

Always worth trying a search first Roy, the two main methods to do this are what Gary mentions - soak out some oil and force-dry using heat - and they're covered in a good few existing threads. One or both of these are the most reliable way to ensure a matt finish and have the beauty that you're not having to add anything (that increases transparency) or having to spray a varnish (with the risk of frosting or other problems).

Here's a thread on making your own drying box:
http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13244

There may be another one, can't remember for sure. Unfortunately this is going to become more difficult to do with the disappearance of incandescent lightbulbs.

...what is the best way to apply them, by brush or airbrush...

Unrelated to the matt issues, this is totally up to the individual. Not all brands of oils would go through an airbrush nozzle reliably but you can definitely spray most commercial oil paints because the pigment is ground finely enough, you'll need to experiment though for best results because thinning oil paints down far enough to airbrush can make them underbound.

If you do end up airbrushing them be careful about inhaling the solvent vapours (as will all solvent-borne paints) as well as the dust, especially of any cadmium, cobalt or chromium pigments you might have (the cad reds, oranges or yellows, the cobalt blues and greens and Cerulean Blue).

Putting your figure in a crockpot is another tried and true method, maybe some one can chime in with the specifics, temps and times =)

Low setting (160°F for Phil Kessling), about 6 hours or overnight.

Safety tip: a crock pot used for drying oils shouldn't be used for cooking as well!

Einion

 

[thegoodsgt]

Here's an easy solution for those unexpected times where you get a glossy appearance despite your best efforts. If the shiny area is relatively small, you can stipple Testor's Dullcote onto the surface (almost using a dry brush technique).

 

[pkess]

Matte or Flat overcoats can be problematic. Some dry with more of a sheen then the oils and some leave a milky or even a white grainy surface. I always avoided ovecoats at all costs.
An important aspect of painting miniatures with oils is the undercoat. I always tried to use "absorbent" undercoats. My preferences were Cel-Vinyl and Jo Sonya. For very flat surfaces, I used Plaka Paints. The next most important aspect is oil paint selection. My palette consisted of colors that I knew would dry flat. Then, oil paints must be spread thin with the brush, not by diluting with a medium.
I dried my oils in a crockpot: lid on and temp controlled with a rheostat; approx 140-160 degrees for as long as 12 hours.

 

[theBaron]

I use a 60w incandescent lamp to dry oils, but I haven't found that it has any effect on the final finish, that is, whether it's gloss or matte, I've found it to be a function of the color itself and its composition. I use Schminke-Mussini oils, haven't tried any other brands, too, so maybe it has to do with their specific formulas. For example, I've found that their Prussian blue retains some gloss, while Madder Red goes beautifully matte, with the wax medium mixed in. I also use mineral spirits for my thinner.

Prost!
Brad