Gunze Sangyo

[brian]

Does anybody know where i can get hold of Gunze Sangyo's Mr metallizer laquers in Europe?
Brian

 

[mvonb]

Try here as he usually does his best to help people out.

Failing that, you can also try here

HTH

Martin

 

[Einion]

That's odd, where'd the old thread go?

I'll suggest 'em again anyway: consider Alclad II as an alternative if you can spray-apply. Failing that I don't think the Mr. Metals are worth the expense and hassle to locate, especially for smaller-scale work.

Einion

 

[brian]

Hi Einion
I'm going to paint Andrea's old 90mm mounted Gothic Knight.I can get a hold of an airbrush. What would you suggest the better method to use? It's a lot of metal!!
Brian

 

[Einion]

I'm going to paint Andrea's old 90mm mounted Gothic Knight.I can get a hold of an airbrush. What would you suggest the better method to use? It's a lot of metal!!

What kind of look do you going for? Bright plate (like in the reenactment books), sort of general steel look or grungy?

If you want bright plate their Chrome is killer for if applied over a smooth base; gloss black is recommended I think (full directions on the site). The polished aluminium works well too and they give one of the most realistic simulations of metals I've seen:
http://www.alclad2.com/images/lacquer_mid.jpg
The pigment in these is really fine and they're water-thin so you don't get buildup like you can with enamels.

There are plenty of SBSs and finished models out there using Mr. Metal if you want to compare the look; IMO they're best for large-scale stuff (busts especially) and only if you don't want a bright or highly-polished finish. Even though the Mr. Metal is stronger I think you can get much the same look from Metalcote, particularly if you spend time polishing.

Einion

 

[brian]

Hi Einion
Thanks for your input Einion.
I've attached a couple of pictures of the armour as i normally would do it .Very basic at this stage and no real shading or highlighting,but as you can see i like the armour to be rough and ready,the only down side is that you can't get rid of all the small surface marks.What do you reckon and anybody else who would like to comment would be most welcome.Honest opinions only please.
Brian

 

[Roy]

I like the armour to be rough and ready,the only down side is that you can't get rid of all the small surface marks.
Brian

Hi Brian..you can do worse than use some 0000 wire wool...followed by some T-cut...and then some Solvol Autosol...this should leave a mirror finish with no perceptible marks at all which should make a good base on which to work.

Get the steel wool from any good diy shop and the last 2 items from a car spares..or auto-refinishers.

T-cut is a creamy liquid (supplied in a plastic bottle) and Solvol is a paste and is in a tube.

All the best mate...Roy.

 

[megroot]

Brian,
I follow this treaht closely. I'm cleaning up Seil's Gothic Knight. I also wanted using the polished metal of the knight and the horse. But there are some moldlines and little gaps that has to be reworked with putty.
I bought Mr Metal from Gunze Sangyo in Germany. Didn't you get the mail with the emailadress in ??
Anyway. i'm gonna use this stuff.

Good luck.

marc

 

[Einion]

Hi Brian..you can do worse than use some 0000 wire wool...followed by some T-cut...and then some Solvol Autosol...this should leave a mirror finish with no perceptible marks at all which should make a good base on which to work.

I'm still a firm believer in polishing up kit metal myself - few things look nearly as good if it's done right.

After filing and scraping, then going over the kit with a brass brush, in place of the T-cut and Solvol Autosol I've used generic metal polish followed by windscreen polish (very fine abrasive)*. You can then use Duraglit if you like too, and a final buff with an old cotton shirt can work wonders.

Brian, only thing is of course the casting has to be clean enough for you to get away with it, and I've seen some pretty dodgy examples of the Andrea knight - whole plates covered in pitting, HUGE mould-misalignments etc. But yours looks like it's most of the way there already, just needs a bit of spit an' polish

*BTW, for anyone that doesn't know, good metal paints can be polished the same way; as long as you make sure they're nice and cured before you start.

Einion