H&S Infinity 2 in 1 Airbrush

[Davidf]

Hi All,

Did receive a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity 2 in 1 recently. Was attracted to the .15 needle size for pre shading etc.

Must say I'm a bit underwhelmed. It's a very touchy piece of equipment (fair enough as it's a precision brush.) Have all sorts of dramas with the .15 nozzle and have given up on it, just using the .40 now. But this may seem as a strange complaint but for the money it cost it feels a bit cheap. Not as well finished as I thought it would be and I keep reading articles about how the nozzles are soft and keep splitting.

I just looked at the IWATA CUSTOM MICRON SERIES CM-CPLUS Gravity Feed Airbrush .23mm and am just getting off floor now. Not cheap...

Look forward to any thoughts on this

Thanks

David

 

[Mirofsoft]

To be clear, he speak about an airbrush

and Iwata is another airbrush
Not to be confused with the Little Indian

Sorry, I can not help
What is the use of your airbrush ?
I only used one, one time and it was a cheap one circa 6€ at the time, making this ( the only plastic kit I ever made following tips I got form Mr Verlinden when he was still in is shop in Belgium 70ies

It was the Humbrol airbrush costing today 17€
https://uk.airfix.com/products/all-purpose-airbrush-blister-ag5107

Say it in the tittle of the post H&S or ... Airbrush you advice ?
You will touch directly all airbrushes users/specialists


Best

 

[FlaBtl (Sfl) 606]

Hi David,

what is excatly you problem? I cant read It out of you text. I also have a harder & Steenbeck airbrush and I have no issues with it.
It also depends what colours you use and how much you thin them etc.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

greetings Patrick

 

[kagemusha]

I use that exact AB...7 years on...same needles/nozzles/seals...performs as good now as the day I got it.
What I will say regarding the 0.15 needle/nozzle is this...it's primarily meant for inks...which have no pigment flakes to block the nozzle...and which dry very slowly...so no tip dry to cope with.
You mention using it for 'pre-shading'...a term commonly used in the aircraft and vehicle arena's...which I am assuming is your requirement?
If my assumption is correct...and it's fine lines you wish to spray...then I would personally use the 0.4 nozzle anyway.
A couple of things you can do to get good fine line control are...use a 'retarder' (acrylics)...keep your psi low (8-10 psi)...use the same brand thinners as the paint your using...and remove the nozzle cap.
There are a couple of very handy adjustments available on this AB...the dial at the rear of the handle...and the trigger 'lock' button...at the very end of the handle.
One thing that is critical to any AB...'lube'...a couple of drops at the back of the plunger will assure you of a smooth action.
As an aside...I use inks...acrylics...lacquers and various varnishes and clear coats without issue.
I have owned 3 Iwata AB's...never liked them!
My personal view on the build quality of the H&S...one of the best I have owned or used.

If you know all this...please ignore.

Ron

 

[Davidf]

I use that exact AB...7 years on...same needles/nozzles/seals...performs as good now as the day I got it.
What I will say regarding the 0.15 needle/nozzle is this...it's primarily meant for inks...which have no pigment flakes to block the nozzle...and which dry very slowly...so no tip dry to cope with.
You mention using it for 'pre-shading'...a term commonly used in the aircraft and vehicle arena's...which I am assuming is your requirement?
If my assumption is correct...and it's fine lines you wish to spray...then I would personally use the 0.4 nozzle anyway.
A couple of things you can do to get good fine line control are...use a 'retarder' (acrylics)...keep your psi low (8-10 psi)...use the same brand thinners as the paint your using...and remove the nozzle cap.
There are a couple of very handy adjustments available on this AB...the dial at the rear of the handle...and the trigger 'lock' button...at the very end of the handle.
One thing that is critical to any AB...'lube'...a couple of drops at the back of the plunger will assure you of a smooth action.
As an aside...I use inks...acrylics...lacquers and various varnishes and clear coats without issue.
I have owned 3 Iwata AB's...never liked them!
My personal view on the build quality of the H&S...one of the best I have owned or used.

If you know all this...please ignore.

Ron

Definitely don't know all this that's for sure. I'm preshading folds on a pegaso model of Spartacus in the folds of the cloak. I have quite a bit of experience using a Paasche VL airbrush but that was for model cars so much broader strokes. I might try the .20 nozzle and needle (another $90 so I'm sure the wife wont mind.) What do you use to clean nozzle out? I've read posts where people have said that they are quite soft and easy to split.

 

[Nap]

Hi David

Never owned a AB .....but tempted so this is a great thread and with good responses for you as well

Look forward to seeing how you get on

Nap

 

[kagemusha]

Definitely don't know all this that's for sure. I'm preshading folds on a pegaso model of Spartacus in the folds of the cloak. I have quite a bit of experience using a Paasche VL airbrush but that was for model cars so much broader strokes. I might try the .20 nozzle and needle (another $90 so I'm sure the wife wont mind.) What do you use to clean nozzle out? I've read posts where people have said that they are quite soft and easy to split.

My advice...save your money ($90)...and spend some time working to get to know the 2 in 1 better...especially the adjustments/settings on it using the 0.4 needle/nozzle...as it's capable of very fine lines in itself.
I can help you better if you would answer some questions for me...
1) what compressor do you have
2) what paints are you using
3) what scale of figures/subjects are you trying to use it for

As for cleaning the nozzle...I mainly use Lacquer thinners (Mr Color)...but this is dependent on the type of paint I am using i.e. acrylic/ink etc., but that will shift pretty much any residue.

This will give you an idea of what the 0.4 is capable of...only the eyes/blaze and mouth were done using a brush.....

https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/sorry-but-no-rider.73540/#post-763203

Ron

 

[Ong]

It's actually German (H&S) vs. Japanese (Iwata) airbrush engineering, or rather comparing a German luxury car, like an Audi to a Japanese Lexus luxury car.

Yes, the H&S has a more delicate chrome finish and structure than the Iwata. You have to treat the H&S like a US F-35 stealth fighter whereas the Iwata can be treated like a Russian Su-35. I do handle them differently.

However, the H&S seems easier to clean than the Iwata. I've always had spraying problems with my Iwata as it's finicky to paint thinning and flow and requires a complete breakdown each and every time to clean. If not broken down, the paint residue really affects airbrushing. I just use straight Windex to clean it because it's the cheapest method and I've had my Iwata for over 10 years so the rubber seals and connections are fine with Windex cleaning. The Iwata also has a more controllable trigger.

But if you want easier cleaning, then the H&S is the better AB. You just have to treat it with a lot more care as it can chip easily.

The standard Iwata (like the HP-C) will not spray fine thin lines consistently and you're right...you need another AB like the Iwata Custom Micron for much finer sprayed lines.

 

[Henk]

I have both an Iwata and two (yeah, I know... ) H&S brushes. The H&S "Cult of Paint" limited edition Infinity is my go to work horse, it has the standard 0.4mm needle, and does everything from base coating armour to shading figures. I have a H&S Ultra (i got it in a steal deal on ebay, with two needles/nozzles and a compressor. Cant go wrong with a spare of everything..) with the 0.2 needle, for very fine work.

I've not used the Iwata since I've had the H&S. The tiny nozzle is a real pain to remove/clean, the self centering nozzle of the H&S is far better.