HELP / Advice Re Groundwork

[mick3272]

Hi,
Greetings all.
I am looking for some help/advice/suggestions re groundwork.

I know I have done this arse about face. I have a base 76cm X21cm.
As it stands I wish to display 19 foot figs & 2 Mounted Figs all 120mm ( Victory Min, Stormtroopers, MMM, & CGS) total range of Crimean 1854 Figs. As and when /if more come onto the market I will want to add them at a later date.

As the majority are in a standing pose I thought I might display them as just a group as opposed to action scenes etc. a bit like in the Simkin prints.

I was thinking about using Modelscene Late Summer Stony Steppe (dry) - more stones

along with plain earth ground work. Any suggestions on what to use for the earth ground work.

Will the above work together.

If you have any other suggestions please advise me as I want to compile a shopping list for Euro.

Thanks Mick

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

I am a tad confused, as to what you seek. Is it shrubs, grass clumps, grass covering? or other.

Mark.

 

[mick3272]

I am a tad confused, as to what you seek. Is it shrubs, grass clumps, grass covering? or other.

Mark.

Hi Mark
Other...

I have the base board. and I want to put on it a simple ground covering so that the figs are not just placed on varnished wood.
I was thinking of using a basic earth surface along with modelscene grass mating to break up the earth, nothing to technical , just simple straight forward .
Can you marry the two up?

Mick

 

[Tecumsea]

Hi Mick,

As you are using large scale figures I would have thought just using the model scene mats joined together would look good maybe you could add one or two larger rocks or some fallen branches to break up the symmetry, (in the background)

Keith.......... I'll be on Steve Kirtleys stand at euro, come and say hello

 

[mick3272]

Thanks Keith.
Will see you at Euro.
Mick

 

[peedee]

Mick they are all Crimean I think?
So yes, I would use as Mark described.
If you use some sort of plaster beneath for variations in ground level, you could also add bare patches here and there to break it up a bit by tearing or cutting holes in the mat.

Looking forward to seeing this mate!

 

[mick3272]

Mick they are all Crimean I think?
So yes, I would use as Mark described.
If you use some sort of plaster beneath for variations in ground level, you could also add bare patches here and there to break it up a bit by tearing or cutting holes in the mat.

Looking forward to seeing this mate!

Thanks Paul, Yes All Queen Victoria's Greatest Army.
That was my original thoughts to use the matting and break it up with some grass free zones as if the grass had been worn away.

Its just a case of what to add to my shopping list.
Mick

 

[peedee]

Thanks Paul, Yes All Queen Victoria's Greatest Army.
That was my original thoughts to use the matting and break it up with some grass free zones as if the grass had been worn away. Its just a case of what to add to my shopping list.
Mick

Aye, use 5minute epoxy around the edges Mick or a dribble of base texture to blend it into the base edge, or it will curl up over time and annoy the poo out of you.
I would also check your store cupboards for the availability
of strong carrier bags for Folkestone mate


Paul.

 

[Nap]

Mick ,

Why not stagger the heights slightly on like a tiered set up but with groundwork

Like Keith I will also be at Euro... But opposite SK on the RP stand (#4)

Nap

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

Hi Mark
Other...

I have the base board. and I want to put on it a simple ground covering so that the figs are not just placed on varnished wood.
I was thinking of using a basic earth surface along with modelscene grass mating to break up the earth, nothing to technical , just simple straight forward .
Can you marry the two up?

Mick

Then your options are wide open.

May I suggest a slight elevation on the rear of the base, for the mounted pieces. (Stepped up) so to speak.

Everyone has there own ideas about ground work, and approach.

My, own method was always base on a base! by this I mean a top section of wood (thin), a few millimetres short of the actual base. Either screw it on, or pin! Mask off the edges to preserve the varnish base.

Then! I applied a thin layer of 'Milliput', I have a few favourite bits of rough stone/brick. Which I dabbed around 'Willy-Nilly', (Imprinting texture ) to break and create a more natural texture in the putty. Not embedded, just to break up the putty's smoothness.

Once dried, this is when you can have fun.

Regards,

Mark.

 

[mick3272]

Mick ,

Why not stagger the heights slightly on like a tiered set up but with groundwork

Like Keith I will also be at Euro... But opposite SK on the RP stand (#4)

Nap

Hi Kev,
I like the idea of the staggered heights bu it cannt be to drastic as it is only 21cm deep but yes it would take a little height.
Thanks. Mick

 

[mick3272]

Then your options are wide open.

May I suggest a slight elevation on the rear of the base, for the mounted pieces. (Stepped up) so to speak.

Everyone has there own ideas about ground work, and approach.

My, own method was always base on a base! by this I mean a top section of wood (thin), a few millimetres short of the actual base. Either screw it on, or pin! Mask off the edges to preserve the varnish base.

Then! I applied a thin layer of 'Milliput', I have a few favourite bits of rough stone/brick. Which I dabbed around 'Willy-Nilly', (Imprinting texture ) to break and create a more natural texture in the putty. Not embedded, just to break up the putty's smoothness.

Once dried, this is when you can have fun.

Regards,

Mark.

Hi Mark.
Slight elevation on the rear sounds good,
thanks
mick

 

[Ybrossculpts]

Hi Mick,
Sounds like you already have alot of great advice and I'll put my two bobs worth in as well. I'm by means experienced but I've been recently researching some options for my own future projects and found this on the Ytube. You could vary the materials but this gives alot of food for thought whether its diorama or figure bases. He's in the model railroad background so they tend to do alot of ground work.



Cheers
Chris.

 

[mick3272]

Thanks Chris.
A very useful video. I Didnt think to look at the railway boys.
Thanks
Mick

 

[Ybrossculpts]

Thanks Chris.
A very useful video. I Didnt think to look at the railway boys.
Thanks
Mick

Yeah mate, I guess it goes hand in hand and you almost can't have one without the other in the model railway world

 

[Ray Stout]

One thing to bear in mind, is that the Railway video is for OO scale. 120MM figures need larger scenery, e.g. normal Static Grass is 2mm high, which will look like a Bowling green in your scale. You can get some Static grass up to 20mm high. Why not get down and dirty? during these dry summer days, take a look at the dirt in the side of any road. You'll find enough "earth" there for all scales. It's natural, and free. Ray

 

[mick3272]

Thanks Ray.

I have a collection of dirt, earth, sand, from all over the place, that has been sieved and micro waved, benn collecting it for years but never used it.
This will be the first time.
Thanks Mick

 

[Ray Stout]

The other thing is that those mats are made for 1/48th scale Tanks and AFVs, so just check before finally gluing them down. I've used them for 54mm figures, and they look good, until you try and cover any contures of changing heights, then, they could be a problem especially in your scale. There is a company that does 2mm, 6mm 10mm 15mm and 20mm static grass, which would suit your scale much better. Ray

 

[Ray Stout]

It's a model railway product, and for any grass over 6mm they've brought out a cheap seive that discharges an electrical charge, which makes it stand up. In these larger scales it really works. Ray

 

[Ybrossculpts]

I just bought a static grass applicator the other week, does a nice job and looking forward to using on my future projects.

Regards
Chris.