Originally posted by Phil5000@Feb 2 2006, 04:55 AM
Y'know, if you take red right out of the bottle it doesn't look like a red cloak would.
Indeed, with modern high-chroma pigments this is a very important area.
The two basic techniques are adding a mixing complement - any other paint that mixes toward neutral grey with the first colour (
note: sometimes there is more than one, see below) - or a neutral grey.
There's a lot of personal taste involved in how much you neutralise and the practical side is a lot more complex than this so working with specifics is helpful. Here are a few mixing pairs:
Cadmium Red Light, Phthalo Blue GS;
Phthalo Blue GS, Perinone Orange;
Permanent Rose, Phthalo Green YS;
Phthalo Green YS, Permanent Alizarin Crimson;
French Ultramarine, English Red;
Burnt Umber, French Ultramarine;
Cadmium Yellow, a mixed violet;
the same mixed violet, Yellow Ochre.
The basic pattern is colours with hues that are opposite on a proper colour wheel - blues for oranges, oranges for blues; greens for crimson-magenta, crimson-magenta for greens; violets for yellows, yellows for violet (this is the least successful in practice); brown and red earths for blues, blues for brown and red earths. For reds both blues and greens can work, depends on the actual paints, not their basic colours.
If you have two paints that 'should' mix a good neutral but don't that's just the way it is
because we're mixing pigments, not colours.
Einion