How does one properly clean one's brushes?

[Phil5000]

Hi again guys. Since I've got such good response from my other questions from you guys I wanted to ask about something that's always been a problem. That's cleaning my brushes properly.

I bought some really good sable ones and I clean them in a jar with clean artists turps, gently wiping them on a paper towel or something, or sort of wiping them on the inside edge of the jar to work the paint out, if you can visualise what I mean. The problems is there always seems to be a little paint left in the brush no matter how through I am, and I'm slowly ruining my nice new expensive sables.

So what should you do to properly clean them? And what do you use to clean them? I read an article that says you shouldn't use strong thinners. Well, that's great... then what are you supposed to use?

I'd appreciate any help or tips you can give me.

Ta very much.

 

[Guy]

I also use a jar with thinner and a fiberous pad on the bottom. I gently work my brush accross the pad always holding the brush the same way. Then use a rag to clean the wet thinner off. You will find that if you are careful and do not dip the brush in the paint all the way you will keep alot of the paint from going up into the ferrel of the brush. Once a week I work my brushes through a brush soap and this helps remove any paint that does work its way into the ferrel of the brush.

Hope this helps.

 

[pgarri27]

I use "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver.Brush Cleaner
It works great.
Pete

 

[Yarok]

This is a matter of opinion and habits on the subjetcs, but I tend to buy good brushes without going for the super-high-grade-Series 7-expensive stuff.
I still have a nice thin pointed end, but the not-so-expensive pricetag makes me less to worry about when cleaning them or using them. IMHO even the most expensive brush will wear out eventually.
I used to paint with Tamiyas, Humbrols, oils, even chalk powder and stuff, so I used Cellulosic Thinner back then. Now I use almost exclusively Vallejo Acrylics, so I use water and a touch of soap every now and then to clean them.
A reflex I do have is to make a pointed tip every time by passing it between my lips slightly moistened, though.

 

[Uruk-Hai]

A good habit is to allways start to dip the brush in thinner. This makes the brush a little damp and it actually prevents the paint to build up and dry inside the bristles.

Also make a habit to often clean the brush during the session. When one feels the bristle stiffen or is all coloured by the paint, just clean it causually and continue painting.

Cheers

 

[thegoodsgt]

I use my W&N brushes only for applying and blending oils. I clean a brush by dipping it into clean turps and then drawing it along a clean hand towel. I repeat this until no additional paint comes out of the brush. I try to avoid abusing the bristles by distorting them too much.

Next I run the brush in tap water, lather it with shampoo, and rinse it out. Finally I work in some hair conditioner and then completely rinse it out.

A lot of work, but when a single brush costs $10-15, it's time well spent.

 

[pmacko]

Originally posted by thegoodsgt@Feb 6 2006, 07:54 AM
Next I run the brush in tap water, lather it with shampoo, and rinse it out. Finally I work in some hair conditioner and then completely rinse it out.

Hair conditioner! Thats interesting. Those are some pampered brushes :lol:

 

[Einion]

Originally posted by Phil5000@Feb 6 2006, 03:07 AM
So what should you do to properly clean them? ...I read an article that says you shouldn't use strong thinners. .

First I would suggest you switch to mineral spirits - turpentine is best used for artists' painting, not for what we do. In addition to being slightly less tough on brush bristles mineral spirits are slightly safer if you're working in an enclosed environment and they help the paint to dry matt so it's win, win, win. If you want to make things as safe as possible buy a good brand of 'odourless' mineral spirits (OMS, also called low-odour solvent sometimes). Regardless of what you use keep the jar capped when you're not actively using it.

To clean brushes after painting you can use a number of methods but first wipe off any excess paint on a rag or paper towel. After that you can go the water route or the oil route.

Method 1
Rinse briskly in the thinners - you don't need to be afraid of being vigorous here. If you want to make a brush washer see below. Washing with soap and water is the normal method of cleaning brushes - use warm water ideally (not hot), rub the brush back and forth on the soap and then lather in the palm of your other hand. Rinse in warm water and repeat if necessary. Then normally you're advised to reshape the brush head with your fingers and leave to dry but you can add in a little conditioner at this stage, which really can help natural-hair brushes stay in good shape longer.

Method 2
The oil route is a little controversial but sign painters and pinstripers have apparently been using it for years and their brushes can last for decades (literally). From advice I've read elsewhere I would suggest trying motor oil (something basic, without chemical additives/detergents if you can still find it), transmission fluid or neatsfoot oil.

You wipe and rinse the brush in spirits as above, then dip in oil and store them. Storing brushes with oil in them might take a little planning but apparently this works great. Next time you're ready to paint just swish the brush in spirits a couple of times, pat dry and you're good to go.

DIY brush washer
Get a large can or jar and a smaller can that will fit inside. Perforate the bottom of the smaller can with many holes and then cut off about 1" or so from it; alternatively make a shallow cup shape from metal screening material if you have any. Place this inside the other container and fill to about the halfway point with spirits; the paint residue will settle out mostly below the insert and won't get disturbed as easily when you're rinsing.

Einion

 

[bonehead]

I can't add anything much to what Einion has said here. I think the big problem here is your use of turpentine for a brush cleaner. That is a bit like using cooking oil to de-grease something!

Turpentine is made from pine sap. It still has some of that gooey stuff in it. Over time the gooey stuff will congeal and harden in the bristles, making your brush useless.

Just use good old paint thinner (mineral spirits). I never use anything further to clean my brushes. I have some brushes that are nearly 20 years old and still useable. I have a theory that all of the additional things people do (such as soap and stuff) to keep their brushes clean only add more wear to the bristles.

You should never need more than paint thinner as long as you make sure that all of the paint has been thoroughly rinsed from the brush. Less is more......

 

[KeithP]

Good comments all.

I don't see it mentioned here but I saw the info earlier and incorporated it for both my oils and acrylics...

Use first a "dirty" bath and then a second "Clean" bath. Swish most of the paint off in bath one and then a final swish in the cleaner bath.

For oil use the mineral spirits and water for the acrylic.

I agree with Mike's comments about over cleaning. Since I reduced the amount of handling, I think my WN&'s are holding up better.

Also, I have to admit I use the hair condition on the kolinsky's, too. I let the conditioner dry and then store the brush up right.

Keith

 

[thegoodsgt]

Interesting. I didn't know that turps would be harmful to my brushes.

Next...I'm buying a walk-in humidor to store the brushes!

 

[Phil5000]

Wow I'm glad I posted. I always wondered if I shouldn't be using turps. I got this artists stuff and it pongs. It's really strong. I work in a little shed and I'm right next to the door and window but unless the wind blows right in ventilation isn't ideal. I painted all afternoon yesterday and my head's still woolly. It'll be great to use something that's less harmful so I'll definately switch to mineral spirits.

My local art supply store has Pebeo Oils Odourless Mineral Spirit. Is that suitable for enamels also?

Is turps suitable for cleaning my airbrush or should that really be the mineral spirits too?

Thanks again guys.

 

[Einion]

Originally posted by bonehead+Feb 6 2006, 06:21 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (bonehead @ Feb 6 2006, 06:21 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>I have a theory that all of the additional things people do (such as soap and stuff) to keep their brushes clean only add more wear to the bristles.[/b]

I think this could be right, as somone pointed out to me on another forum once: friction is friction.

The traditional soap method is really geared to cleaning hog-bristle brushes as I've mentioned elsewhere (although a really good soap, or soaping and then conditioning, shouldn't dry out the hairs as a coarse soap like The Masters can).

Originally posted by Phil5000@Feb 7 2006, 12:18 AM
Wow I'm glad I posted. I always wondered if I shouldn't be using turps. I got this artists stuff and it pongs. It's really strong. I work in a little shed and I'm right next to the door and window but unless the wind blows right in ventilation isn't ideal. I painted all afternoon yesterday and my head's still woolly.

Yep, that's the main reason I suggest that we shouldn't use it in the hobby. The high smell is a rough indicator of how much vapour is in the air in your painting area.

Originally posted by Phil5000@Feb 7 2006, 12:18 AM
My local art supply store has Pebeo Oils Odourless Mineral Spirit. Is that suitable for enamels also?

Should be fine - this type of thinners are almost all generically related (often being the same chemical, just made by different plants).

Other brands to look out for are Sansodor from W&N and the one made by Gamblin, Mona Lisa's isn't bad either. But even something like Odourless Mineral Spirits in a gallon can from the hardware store should be fine. If you want to be careful to get a good one ask for an MSDS where you buy it or check online.

<!--QuoteBegin-Phil5000@Feb 7 2006, 12:18 AM
Is turps suitable for cleaning my airbrush or should that really be the mineral spirits too?[/quote]
Either really, although if you run a solvent through the brush be aware that you're making an aerosol of it so you're pumping a lot of vapour into the air potentially. Once you get the OMS I'd stick to that for everything; store the turps in a cool dark place in case you ever want to use it for canvas painting

Einion

 

[Phil5000]

Thanks again. One more question about mineral spirits... can you use it to thin your paint while painting, or should you really use Humrol or Tamiya thinner? And what do you thin oils with?

Ta.

Actually I'm starting to feel a little worried about my exposure over the weekend. It's been two days and my head still feels funny.

 

[Einion]

Originally posted by Phil5000+Feb 7 2006, 11:39 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Phil5000 @ Feb 7 2006, 11:39 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>One more question about mineral spirits... can you use it to thin your paint while painting...[/b]

Yep, that's what it's for - helps oils to dry matt too (compared to using turps).

Originally posted by Phil5000@Feb 7 2006, 11:39 AM
And what do you thin oils with?

Spirits and a little Liquin and when painting painting Liquin and stand oil.

<!--QuoteBegin-Phil5000@Feb 7 2006, 11:39 AM
Actually I'm starting to feel a little worried about my exposure over the weekend. It's been two days and my head still feels funny.[/quote]
I stupidly hand-stripped a figure on my desk using lacquer thinners a short while ago (impatient) and I felt a bit seedy the rest of the day. Single exposures shouldn't be much to worry about thankfully but cumulative effects can be very grave.

Einion

 

[Phil5000]

Have you guys tried 'Brush Cleaner Turpenoid Natural (non-toxic)' or 'Art Spectrum Organic Art Clean (Brush Cleaner)'? They're supposed to be good in terms of health issues, but I don't know if you can mix them with paint? Would you still stick with mineral spirits?

Ta.

 

[Einion]

Turpenoid Natural is natural in the way that a cola drink is natural It's marketed in a way that makes one think it's safe for bunnies and all that but presuming it has D-limonene as its active ingredient, which is likely given the "mild citrus odour" (although they're very careful not to list the ingredients, even on the MSDS) you can take that with a pinch of salt.

Have a look at this; I would stick with a decent OMS myself for thinning paint as any diluent should evaporate completely and leave no residue, which this doesn't. But you could certainly give it a shot for brush cleaning.

Einion