Making perforated holes
- Thread starter T50
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megroot
A Fixture
I don't know. Never done it.
I should try it with a etchset where the perforated holes are in.
Stick them on the gun and with a minitool drill them out and use the etch this way like a guide.
Just thinking that way.
marc
I should try it with a etchset where the perforated holes are in.
Stick them on the gun and with a minitool drill them out and use the etch this way like a guide.
Just thinking that way.
marc
Einion
A Fixture
Mmmm, Barrett... Last time I looked at the thread there wasn't a pic visible, thought there was supposed to be!
This is for 1/35 scale right? Bugger they're gonna be small! Other than making an impression tool, which I don't think would be any use here, I'm at a loss.
Einion
This is for 1/35 scale right? Bugger they're gonna be small! Other than making an impression tool, which I don't think would be any use here, I'm at a loss.
Einion
quang
A Fixture
THAT is the reason why I'm sticking to war clubs and tomahawks. 
Quang
Quang
Ray
Well-Known Member
If I were going to try and sculpt (using putty) something like that I would make a die (preferably hollow) from brass or plastic and use it to, either; 1 cut the holes out in soft putty (hollow die), 2 press the holes into the soft putty. If you press the holes the edges will be raised the same as a meteor crater. No problem though, simply sand the thing flat after the putty has cured.
I'd prefer to make the pattern from brass or plastic, in which case I'd-with brass-mill the holes-with plastic-I'd drill the two ends of each hole and carve out the balance, carefully, with a scalpel or X-Acto. Plastic is probably really the way to go unless you want something you can vulcanize later, (even then you could investment cast and convert the pattern to brass) simply because it is probably the easiest material to work.
Of course, all of these methods are very tedious. But then if properly done they are also very rewarding.
Hope this helps some.
I'd prefer to make the pattern from brass or plastic, in which case I'd-with brass-mill the holes-with plastic-I'd drill the two ends of each hole and carve out the balance, carefully, with a scalpel or X-Acto. Plastic is probably really the way to go unless you want something you can vulcanize later, (even then you could investment cast and convert the pattern to brass) simply because it is probably the easiest material to work.
Of course, all of these methods are very tedious. But then if properly done they are also very rewarding.
Hope this helps some.
T50
A Fixture
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- Feb 3, 2004
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Thanks for the replies, gents.
I am planning to use thin plastic sheet to make the 8 slots in a row.
Once it's done, make 4 resin castings. Then assemble these 4 pieces
into the right shape.
But as for making the slots precisely and evenly, I might have to
use both styrene sheet and putty...
I am planning to use thin plastic sheet to make the 8 slots in a row.
Once it's done, make 4 resin castings. Then assemble these 4 pieces
into the right shape.
But as for making the slots precisely and evenly, I might have to
use both styrene sheet and putty...
Jamie Stokes
A Fixture
What scale?
Scale is the major question here.
Einion was right; in 1/35 scale, many of the slots would appear as dark indentations, while to do the bi pod struts, realistic effects could only be done by photo etch.
Back to main topic
How would I go about it; do the piece up as a flat sheet, mark out the areas to be drilled out, making sure I had a centre line to work from. use a scribing guide to mark out the dimensions. Then use an underside small dental bit in my handy Dremel tool (at very low revs) to make then enlarge the holes/ slots.
A handy template to use would be one like this
http://www.firestormmodels.com/store/cart.php?target=product&product_id=14487&category_id=160
which is an aircraft scribing guide.
I still feel photo etch may be the way to go, to ensure consistency, regular size of the slots, and more likely to keep your hair on your head.
Here is a link to a DIY photo etch on Aircraft Resource Center.
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/
Try "Tool'n'Tips" and select "Photo etch" from the menu.
True, involved work, but the idea of sculpting and resculpting to ensure a line of consistent slots of uniform size and spacing.....
My thoughts on the matter.
cheers
Scale is the major question here.
Einion was right; in 1/35 scale, many of the slots would appear as dark indentations, while to do the bi pod struts, realistic effects could only be done by photo etch.
Back to main topic
How would I go about it; do the piece up as a flat sheet, mark out the areas to be drilled out, making sure I had a centre line to work from. use a scribing guide to mark out the dimensions. Then use an underside small dental bit in my handy Dremel tool (at very low revs) to make then enlarge the holes/ slots.
A handy template to use would be one like this
http://www.firestormmodels.com/store/cart.php?target=product&product_id=14487&category_id=160
which is an aircraft scribing guide.
I still feel photo etch may be the way to go, to ensure consistency, regular size of the slots, and more likely to keep your hair on your head.
Here is a link to a DIY photo etch on Aircraft Resource Center.
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/
Try "Tool'n'Tips" and select "Photo etch" from the menu.
True, involved work, but the idea of sculpting and resculpting to ensure a line of consistent slots of uniform size and spacing.....
My thoughts on the matter.
cheers
Black Army
A Fixture
I think the only one perfect way is photo etch - as janus has written too. With sculpting materials, plastic sheets you will never reach the result like a photo etched part.
Cheers,
Balázs
Cheers,
Balázs
bonehead
A Fixture
Taesung,
This why I try to avoid modern weapons like the plague! But every now and then I like challenging myself.
There IS another way to do this with less pain! The trick is to think of the openings as a geometry problem which can be solved with plastic strip. Use one piece of strip lengthwise to form the top edge of the openings and another lengthwise to make the bottom edge.
Now, to make the openings, we rely on a piece of strip of the proper width to form the "vertical columns" between each opening. Glue one short length of this strip CROSSWISE onto one of the strips then use another of a wider width to use as a measuring spacer - This one is NOT GLUED ON but, is used to determine the width of each "space" to position the next column which is glued on crosswise.
Unassembled it looks something like this:
________________ top edge strip
- - - - - - - - "vertical columns"
________________ bottom edge strip
Once you have the "vertical columns" glued to one lengthwise edge strip you glue the other edge to the columns and what you have is a length of strip that has perfectly spaced and sized rectangular openings. All you have to do is inlay this into the stock of your weapon with crazy glue and sand it flush.
The final step would be rounding off the corners of the openings. The best way to do this is to stuff a little putty into each end and then use a sculpting tool - such as a round toothpick to mush the putty into the corners to create the proper radius. Once this is hardened the excess putty is then trimmed with a sharp knife and sanded flush and - VOILA! A row of perfectly proportioned and spaced holes!
I hope this helps!
Mike
P.S. I NEVER wanted to be a gangsta!
This why I try to avoid modern weapons like the plague! But every now and then I like challenging myself.
There IS another way to do this with less pain! The trick is to think of the openings as a geometry problem which can be solved with plastic strip. Use one piece of strip lengthwise to form the top edge of the openings and another lengthwise to make the bottom edge.
Now, to make the openings, we rely on a piece of strip of the proper width to form the "vertical columns" between each opening. Glue one short length of this strip CROSSWISE onto one of the strips then use another of a wider width to use as a measuring spacer - This one is NOT GLUED ON but, is used to determine the width of each "space" to position the next column which is glued on crosswise.
Unassembled it looks something like this:
________________ top edge strip
- - - - - - - - "vertical columns"
________________ bottom edge strip
Once you have the "vertical columns" glued to one lengthwise edge strip you glue the other edge to the columns and what you have is a length of strip that has perfectly spaced and sized rectangular openings. All you have to do is inlay this into the stock of your weapon with crazy glue and sand it flush.
The final step would be rounding off the corners of the openings. The best way to do this is to stuff a little putty into each end and then use a sculpting tool - such as a round toothpick to mush the putty into the corners to create the proper radius. Once this is hardened the excess putty is then trimmed with a sharp knife and sanded flush and - VOILA! A row of perfectly proportioned and spaced holes!
I hope this helps!
Mike
P.S. I NEVER wanted to be a gangsta!
Johan
A Fixture
... No idea how to sculpt such a weapon ... but a whole webpage dedicated to this weapon here, hope it is of any use : http://www.inetres.com/gp/military/infantry/rifle/M107.html
Einion
A Fixture
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