Painting an 11th Hussar.

[JonH]

Hello. My name's Jon. This is my first post on PF.

I've mostly been a plastic modeller but like to do a figure occasionally.

I've just been given MMM's superb 120mm 11th Hussar sergeant for my birthday and, apart from some minor queries re. some aspects of uniform detail, I think it's great.
Most of my previous figs have been done in enamels with some oil painting for leather,hair etc. but I want to try this one in oils. Am I right in thinking it best to block in major areas with enamel/acrylic and blend oils over this,when dry
Also I'd like advice on mixes for shadow and highlights. I'm keeping it simple stupid and using W & N crimson for his cherrypicker overalls but not sure what to add for best effects for shading. His Dolman I'm ok with I think.
Thanks for your thoughts. Jon

P.S. Which would be the best place to discuss uniform issues?

 

[Paul Kernan]

Hi Jon
Welcome to the Planet. I'm sure you will get plenty of valuable information but in the meantime, here's my two cents.

Yes, most of us oil painters work using stains/glazes over an undercoat of enamel or acrylic. I tend to use Humbrol enamals but the company has changed it formulae over the last number of years so they're consistency is not always what it used to be. I have also used Vallejo or Games Workshop when it comes to acrylics.

Other oil painters, Jim Johnston being a good example, will apply their oil mixes directly onto their prime coats with beautiful results. I've tried it without much success.

As for Crimson...I haven't used it much but I would consider mixing a small amount of green (maybe sap green) into the red for a subtle shade. Be careful as too much will result in a dirty or muddied appearance.

Uniform questions....General Figure Talk or Historical References

 

[swralph]

Hi Jon I always block in main colours using acrylics then use oil on top.remember the less oil you use the better.
with the first coat of oil on use clean dry brushes to wipe the oil off, I can sometimes use up to 6 brushe's doing this.Have fun

 

[Gra30]

I spray the base for reds and crimsons in humbrols.
Ww1 purple then overspray of scarlet or red.
My mix for shadow is the base oil with magenta and alizarin crimson, sometimes a very small amount of ivory black only in deepest folds.
Base areas in the base oil and highlights with an oil flesh mixed with the base.
I find that for best results keep the humbrol base as clean as possible as the oils are quite transparent.
I also use the red areas primary base and paint those areas first, then carefully adding the other colours around so not to pollute or damage the red

For crimson just hold back on the red top coat and use only the magenta and the alizarin and black for shadows
My other areas are primed in acrylics and everything at the start is primed in humbrol white.
The white underneath gives the red depth

 

[JonH]

Thanks for those replies chaps. I think you've given me the advice I need to make a start.

Jon

 

[JonH]

Ouch ! I've not thought this through too well. My plan was to undercoat the overalls with Testor's crimson enamel then use W&N crimson as my main foundation.What I didn't know was that a tube of crimson oil costs £27. I know it would last me a life time but I can't afford it! I'm after a paler,faded look rather than the rich newly issued look. Can anyone suggest a mix or alternative?
This time it really is all about the money.
Thanks Jon

 

[MCPWilk]

Try this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reeves-Ar...Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item51b5abd1fa

Good luck,

Mike

 

[JonH]

Yep. Point taken thanks.

 

[JonH]

I'll try again and be a bit more specific. As a newcomer to oils will I potentially be able to get reasonable results using the Winton range, particularly in terms of blending. Also, would I be better posting this thread in the newcomers forum? Thanks for your thoughts.

Jon

 

[Old Pete]

Hi There,
there is nothing wrong with these Reeves oil paints I use them all the time and get perfectly good results.If you are just starting with oils there is nothing wrong with these and you can always add other more expensive colours as you get used to them By the way I do,nt use Windsor & Newton brushes either
George

 

[MCPWilk]

I have used Reeves as well as Windsor & Newton. There's little to choose between them.

Mike

 

[JonH]

My apologies Mike. I thought you were saying "you get what you pay for". Reeves used to make childrens crayons!
And thanks George for the additional recommendation.
I'll have a look at Reeves but on the other hand I can get hold of Winton colours at a local art supplies shop. Is there any reason why I shouldn't use Wintons for this project? The price difference between W&N oil paints and their Winton range seems huge.

I've a notion to pose my Hussar next to his horse. Dragon do a Wehrmacht cavalry dismounted figure with horse in 1/16 and I think the horse furniture could be fettled into a reasonable 1805 pattern saddle etc.
Figure now cleaned up and awaiting priming and enamel undercoat. I'm going to leave his arms off for now until I've tackled the braid and hopefully I'll have some photos for C and C next week.

Thanks for the advice.

Jon