Does anyone know of an SBS on how to paint fabric to look transparent?
Thanks,
carl.
Thanks,
carl.
Painting transparent.
- Thread starter housecarl
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gordy
A Fixture
If there isn't one there should be!
smeagolthevile
Well-Known Member
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- Aug 31, 2008
- Messages
- 175
Im not sure exactly what you mean, but I do know of this little tutorial, I hope it helps.
http://codyscoop.com/models/features/ht-rei
http://codyscoop.com/models/features/ht-rei
gordy
A Fixture
Nice link Smeago 
Thanks for the link, that's just what I meant. But I would have preferred acrylics, just to be awkward.
Carl.
Carl.
Einion
A Fixture
In principle this is actually quite easy Carl - if it's just a thin veil over skin for example, you just paint the portions clinging to the surface more the skin colour, while the raised portions (folds & wrinkles in the fabric) are done the straight fabric colour. Related thread from CMON:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?24815-Wet-or-Sheer-Fabric-Painting
The two main ways of doing this in practice are:
paint the item normally, then layer on thin veils of the skin colour in the clinging sections;
paint the item the tweaked skin colour, then work up to the fabric colour on the folds and wrinkles.
They work about equally well (and in practice you may need to use both to some extent) but certain colours for the fabric and whatever is underneath will tend to dictate which way is the best. For white over skin, I don't think it matters which way you go. But blue over skin for example it's often better to do the blue first, particularly for blues on the cyan side of mid-blue.
Einion
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?24815-Wet-or-Sheer-Fabric-Painting
The two main ways of doing this in practice are:
paint the item normally, then layer on thin veils of the skin colour in the clinging sections;
paint the item the tweaked skin colour, then work up to the fabric colour on the folds and wrinkles.
They work about equally well (and in practice you may need to use both to some extent) but certain colours for the fabric and whatever is underneath will tend to dictate which way is the best. For white over skin, I don't think it matters which way you go. But blue over skin for example it's often better to do the blue first, particularly for blues on the cyan side of mid-blue.
Einion
Thanks Einion, an excuse to look for scantly clad ladies.
Great article, ta,
Carl.
Great article, ta,
Carl.
FigureLover
A Fixture
Hi Carl,
as Einion suggests, there are several ways to go about it depending on how see through the clothing is and the colour. For very shear, paint the whole figure in the flesh tones as if it is nude, and then slowly add a very thin coating of the clothing colour where it is needed. Where the clothing is touching the skin, leave it almost full flesh colour and where there are folds in the clothing, build up the clothing colour bit by bit until you get the desired effect. This is almost like shading any other piece of clothing but you are using a different colour than a different shade of the same colour.
Ben
as Einion suggests, there are several ways to go about it depending on how see through the clothing is and the colour. For very shear, paint the whole figure in the flesh tones as if it is nude, and then slowly add a very thin coating of the clothing colour where it is needed. Where the clothing is touching the skin, leave it almost full flesh colour and where there are folds in the clothing, build up the clothing colour bit by bit until you get the desired effect. This is almost like shading any other piece of clothing but you are using a different colour than a different shade of the same colour.
Ben
Einion
A Fixture
"Honestly dear, I'm looking for references!"housecarl said:
Einion
Thanks for the advice, I've enjoyed the research.
Carl.
Carl.
Take a look at this thread:
http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37986
I posted it back in January. The figure was painted using Reaper acrylics, but it should work with Andrea or Vallejo acrylics as well. Basically, since the nightie was to be sheer as depicted in the kit's color photo, I painted the breasts and torso first using Tanned Skin darkened and greyed out with Stormy Grey. While the skin tones will be visible, the fabric would cut down the light and add it's own shadow. Darker skin tones, again darkened and greyed, were painted in with Tanned Shadow. Even darker skin tones were painted using Tanned Shadow and Dark Highlights (the lightest of a Triad depicting a generic African skin tone). The darker skin tones were also used to paint the nipples. The nipples were highlighted (sparingly) with Tanned Skin and Tanned Highlight.
I painted the nightie using Reaper's Red Triad of Deep Red, Blood Red, and Fire Red. I used the Blood Red mixed with Reaper Sealer and water in a 1:3:3 ratio for the base color. I used a brush that was large enough to cover an entire shoulder strap in one pass, then went to a larger brush to do the breasts and the rest of the nightie. I tried to work quickly and avoid excessive overlaps. When I do have to make some overlaps, I made them adjacent to the shadowed side of the folds. I made a number of passes over the the entire nightie until I was satisfied with the strength of the color. Just remember that the bulk of the transparency will be where the fabric is laying flat against the skin - the breasts, front torso, and the left thigh. These areas should have thinner, less opaque layers of paint.
After the base red dried for a bit, I went to a darker mix of Deep Red in the same mix ratio to paint in the fold shadows and other less lit areas. I added more layers of paint to further deepen the shadows. The highlights were painted using the Fire Red, a neat mix (with Sealer and water) at first, then the red was progressively lightened with Sun Yellow. The highlights were transparent at first, but the last highlights were nearly opaque. Most of these are on the edges of the ruffles and folds.
The paint/sealer/water mix is also handy for doing sheer stockings. You can also use Reapers Liners (grey, brown, red, etc.). These are highly pigmented but relatively thin. Again, try to do it in one pass or use edges for boundaries, because there will be darker lines where the passes might overlap.
And yes, the research is great fun...
Cheers,
Glen
http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37986
I posted it back in January. The figure was painted using Reaper acrylics, but it should work with Andrea or Vallejo acrylics as well. Basically, since the nightie was to be sheer as depicted in the kit's color photo, I painted the breasts and torso first using Tanned Skin darkened and greyed out with Stormy Grey. While the skin tones will be visible, the fabric would cut down the light and add it's own shadow. Darker skin tones, again darkened and greyed, were painted in with Tanned Shadow. Even darker skin tones were painted using Tanned Shadow and Dark Highlights (the lightest of a Triad depicting a generic African skin tone). The darker skin tones were also used to paint the nipples. The nipples were highlighted (sparingly) with Tanned Skin and Tanned Highlight.
I painted the nightie using Reaper's Red Triad of Deep Red, Blood Red, and Fire Red. I used the Blood Red mixed with Reaper Sealer and water in a 1:3:3 ratio for the base color. I used a brush that was large enough to cover an entire shoulder strap in one pass, then went to a larger brush to do the breasts and the rest of the nightie. I tried to work quickly and avoid excessive overlaps. When I do have to make some overlaps, I made them adjacent to the shadowed side of the folds. I made a number of passes over the the entire nightie until I was satisfied with the strength of the color. Just remember that the bulk of the transparency will be where the fabric is laying flat against the skin - the breasts, front torso, and the left thigh. These areas should have thinner, less opaque layers of paint.
After the base red dried for a bit, I went to a darker mix of Deep Red in the same mix ratio to paint in the fold shadows and other less lit areas. I added more layers of paint to further deepen the shadows. The highlights were painted using the Fire Red, a neat mix (with Sealer and water) at first, then the red was progressively lightened with Sun Yellow. The highlights were transparent at first, but the last highlights were nearly opaque. Most of these are on the edges of the ruffles and folds.
The paint/sealer/water mix is also handy for doing sheer stockings. You can also use Reapers Liners (grey, brown, red, etc.). These are highly pigmented but relatively thin. Again, try to do it in one pass or use edges for boundaries, because there will be darker lines where the passes might overlap.
And yes, the research is great fun...
Cheers,
Glen
Thanks Glen, I'll use your great piece as a reference.
Carl.
Carl.
