Acrylics Painting wood

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Wellington 33 & 76

Active Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2011
Messages
58
Location
Colchester
Dear All
Sorry to keep asking questions.
Does anyone know how to paint wood on gun stocks, handles etc.... all these are for my German paratrooper.

Cheers

Matt
 
There are some prior threads on painting wood that might have answers in them that you'd find useful Matt. In case it's not covered in one of them, here's one of the simplest methods for painting wooden stocks.

Ppaint them a light brown, then lightly streak them with a dark colour. Don't worry about whether it ends up a bit too contrasty, the next steps will reduce this. Next do some preliminary shading with thin layers of a darker brown, paying attention to the angle the weapon will be after assembly.

Then you glaze over everything with a transparent reddish- or dark-brown colour, depending on what the woodwork is like on the weapon in question. If you have oils and acrylics available it's very easy to do the underpainting steps in acrylic, then use oils (something like Burnt Sienna or Burnt Umber) to glaze on top of it but you can do the entire thing in acrylics*.

After this you can add a bit more shading with some glazes of dark brown or black if you feel it's necessary, then use whatever you have (acrylic medium, varnish, linseed oil, Klear) to add an appropriate sheen.

This same basic approach can be used to paint belts and other leather items too, yielding effective results without too much sweat.

*Easy to mix a reddish brown, even completely from scratch if necessary, if you don't have one.

Einion
 
Would you say that there is a scale, smaller than which, you wouldn't be able to see the grain effect? I'm thinking that in 1/48, it's still noticeable on larger objects, like a table top, but that small or narrow objects, like a rifle stock, probably are too small at that point, to attempt a graining effect.

Prost!
Brad
 
I simply paint an undercoat of light brown, or Iraqi Sand, then glaze with Vallejo smoke, which is pretty much like an ink. I then do a glaze using oils just as Einion has mentioned above.
 
theBaron said:
Would you say that there is a scale, smaller than which, you wouldn't be able to see the grain effect?
Yep. Obviously it does depend on the species of wood and how big the piece of it is, but for wooden gun furniture in general if there's grain visible it's quite fine.

From a fairly normal viewing distance you can definitely get some payoff from some subtle graining at 1/32 scale so it's worth doing there if it matches what's seen on the real item, but once you go down to 1/35 scale you're beginning to get to the point where it's really hard to paint it in scale and I don't think it's normally worth the effort.

Einion
 
Has anyone tried using inks over an acrylic base yet? Much like the videos produced by Michigan Toy Soldier Company,used the Andrea products and was quite satisfied with the results. I have since been looking at some more inks at my local art supply store. I have to say I will be using these more in the very near future.

Jim Patrick
 
Has anyone tried using inks over an acrylic base yet?
This should work well, it's basically just the same principle Jim. There's a long history of inks being used for this kind of thing doing minis.

For anyone that doesn't want to use oils for the glazing layer(s) though, I'd recommend transparent artists' acrylics instead of inks for a few reasons.

Einion
 
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