Primer For Figures

[Jim Patrick]

OK, thanks to Joe Hudson, I am FINALLY getting my rear end and head wired together. Took some time, but Joe's intentions were well meant and served to get me working on a figure again.

THANKS Joe

Normally, when I apply primer, I use Tamiya paint sprayed through an airbrush. While I do have my airbrush, I do not have my Tamiya paint or compressor. It's too late in the ball game to order anything (i.e- Mr. Surfacer) as it wouldn't get here on time.

Ok, so here is my question about primer paint. What quick, inexpensive remedies do you guys use? Walmart, Hobby Lobby, etc., etc. The one thing I'm most concerned with is that the finish is DEAD FLAT! Or as close as I can reasonably come with spray cans.

Additionally, what tricks/ techniques do you use when spraying from a can?

Help a brother out who's trying to paint again! :lol:

Jim Patrick

 

[jcichon]

Armory paint at hobby town dries dead flat but more expensive than most. I use plain old auto primer for the most part which is like 4 dollars. THe trick I learned from someone is to put the can half submerged in warm water for about 15 minutes or so till the paint is nice and warm and when you spray it, it is ultra fine and lays down really nice. My favorite is floquil but it never seems to dry super flat and its a bitch to strip. Hope this helps!

 

[Einion]

What quick, inexpensive remedies do you guys use? Walmart, Hobby Lobby, etc., etc. The one thing I'm most concerned with is that the finish is DEAD FLAT! Or as close as I can reasonably come with spray cans.

Don't know quite how matt it is but Painter's Touch should do you, although I think there are lots of alternatives in auto-paint places.

Additionally, what tricks/ techniques do you use when spraying from a can?

Shake can well (at least as long as the instructions say to ). Warm can in hand-hot water. Shake can some more. Test spray before use on model.

Shaking the can periodically during a spraying session don't do no harm neither

Einion

 

[Anders Heintz]

The best and cheapest primer I have ever used is called "Brite Touch" and can be bought at O'Reillys or Autozone, its less then $3.00 a can here and is easily as good and smooth as Tamiya Super Fine primer.

 

[Diegoff]

OK, thanks to Joe Hudson, I am FINALLY getting my rear end and head wired together. Took some time, but Joe's intentions were well meant and served to get me working on a figure again.

THANKS Joe

Normally, when I apply primer, I use Tamiya paint sprayed through an airbrush. While I do have my airbrush, I do not have my Tamiya paint or compressor. It's too late in the ball game to order anything (i.e- Mr. Surfacer) as it wouldn't get here on time.

Ok, so here is my question about primer paint. What quick, inexpensive remedies do you guys use? Walmart, Hobby Lobby, etc., etc. The one thing I'm most concerned with is that the finish is DEAD FLAT! Or as close as I can reasonably come with spray cans.

Additionally, what tricks/ techniques do you use when spraying from a can?

Help a brother out who's trying to paint again! :lol:

Jim Patrick

I usually use the Chaos Black can fron Citadel Colour. The finish is a bit shiny but have no problem with that and, best of all it is very easy to spray:

 

[Jim Patrick]

The best and cheapest primer I have ever used is called "Brite Touch" and can be bought at O'Reillys or Autozone, its less then $3.00 a can here and is easily as good and smooth as Tamiya Super Fine primer.

How flat is it Anders? I have used the Tamiya Super Fine spray cans before but found the finish to be between a gloss and semi gloss. Not at all flat that I was looking for.

There are plenty of O'Reilys here in El Paso too.

Jim Patrick

 

[Don Johnson]

Jim, I use the Flat Black from WalMart - usually not more than $2 - and it lays down flat and tight. Same for the Flat White. Primed a bunch of figs this summer, and had no issues.

The other tip is multiple coats. I shoot the first coat from "underneath" - holding the figure upside down by its wood painting block. Gets the difficult places first, with the second coat coming over the top as per usual.

Another trick you're probably aware of is to prime with Black first, then do a light White spray from the direction of your light source. Voila - instant shadow/highlight guide!!

Best of luck!!

 

[Anders Heintz]

Jim,

Whats great about the primer is that it is super smooth, never had any issues with 'pebbly' or orange peel type surface issues. It is extremely thin, and will 'shrink' onto the detail, showing any and all detail on the piece without gumming it up. You can spray several layers without any build up issues as long as you pay attention.

As far as flat, if 10 is dead flat I'd probably rate this one at 7.5 to 8 , it's pretty flat, but not flat enough to have a rough surface.

 

[roadking]

I use automotive primer from a spray can like many out there. I keep white (Used 99% of the time), Grey, Rust Red and Black. It is cheap, readily available, sprays smooth and DEAD FLAT. The trick is thin spray layers and smooth passes over the figure. If you get it on a bit heavy it does shrink down tight as it cures so no worries. I usually let primed figures dry/cure for two days before I start painting as I use thinned oils at times and don't want to risk lifting the primer.

Jim

 

[Jim Patrick]

Thanks Jim. What brand of paint do you use and where do you purchase it at?

Jim Patrick

 

[theBaron]

I use WalMart's primer, too, though I use the medium and light gray. I get it in the automotive section of the store. It's fine-grained, and much more reasonable in terms of price, than primers made by the modeling companies (eg, Tamiya).

Rustoleum's primer is pretty good, too, in terms of how fine-grained the result is, but it's much more expensive.

I'll second Don's tip, too-I spray a couple of light coats and gradually build it up. I spray right from the can.

Prost!
Brad