Printers Ink for Metalics

[mick3272]

Hi,
Having just seen the thread on the Horse Guard Bust 1815 ( Hawk Mins) I read that the Metalic work was done with printers Ink. I will say it looked rather good.

In the forums opinion are printers ink the way forward for metalics , If so how are they used ?
OR
Can you achieve just as good results with acrylics, If so who's metalics would you recommend.

I currently use Vallejo metalics which I do find a little thick and heavy.

Thanks
Mick

 

[kagemusha]

Preferred metals for me are Scale 75 'Metal n Alchemy' sets.....or Vallejo Air....both are well suited to oil glazes/shading etc.

Ron

 

[mick3272]

Hi Ron,
I have used Vallejo Air, it is smooth bu very bright, Never used Scale 75,
THanks
Mick

 

[kagemusha]

It's the brightness of V Air that makes them good for oil paint shading/wear etc.

 

[kagemusha]

This will give you an idea of why I like the Scale 75 metals .......http://www.planetfigure.com/threads/im-back-scale-75-abyssal-warlord.63999/

 

[Viking Bob]

I have Chainmail silver,bright brass and gold in Vallejo model air, I have found them to be good. Not tried scale 75.
There was a forum posting a little while back talking about 'Darkstar' acrylic paints but dammed if I can find it

Bob

 

[Gary D]

I get mine from El Greco. They come in a glass jar and need to be thinned. Downside is after a while the inside of the jar develops a skin on it that you need to remove but it's no big deal. I thin with ordinary thinner. The advantage of using printers inks is they go on so thinly and smoothly that hardly any brush marks are seen and you don't loose any detail. A little goes a very long way and I've had mine for years. Brian on another posting just talked about his printers inks in a powder form. I'd like to get some of them as I think they'd be easier to manage.
http://www.elgrecominiatures.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d269.html

Gary D

 

[mick3272]

Thanks Ron,
will have a read of your thread and no doubt get back t o you with questions
Thanks
Mick

Thanks Bob
Yes I have used V model air, not seen chainmail silver though
Mick

 

[Viking Bob]

I nicked the idea from John Belcher for chainmail silver, he painted Cp John Shaw a while ago and used it for the sword, it looked the bee's knee's.

Bob

 

[Graham]

Just got a few Darkstar but not tried them yet.

 

[arj]

Hi Mick,
It was my post that you referred to in your opening statement.
I've used printers inks (the type that are stocked by El Greco) for a very long time. I find their stability and ability to mix with oil paints very useful.
The gold/gilt finish I've already mentioned in my Horse Guard post. An alternative is adding burnt umber and terre vert to make a brass base.
The silver I mix with cobalt blue and black to get a steel, while for a tarnished steel I'll stipple with burnt umber and wash with vandyke brown. The list is as long as you're prepared to experiment.
I don't have any specific quantities for my mixes. I just mix until I think it looks right.
The only thing I'd warn people to be wary of is making the mixes too thin. I tend to mix thick, thin economically on the palette and apply in small quantities. The last thing you want to see is the metallic paint running all over a finished surface.
I've tried the old powder mixes (eg the ones produced by Rose Miniatures of old) but found them to be somewhat hit and miss.
I cannot comment on the acrylics since I haven't tried them.
However, the Darkstar set has intrigued me, and I'd be very interested in peoples' opinions on this make.

Cheers,
Andrew

 

[Bailey]

I don't have any experience with printers inks, although the impression I get is that they are more commonly used by the oil painters. If you're painting with acrylics, I highly recommend the Scale75 Metal 'n Alchemy paints. I've been using them a lot and in my opinion they're the best water based metallic paints around. Vallejo Model Air are nice (superior to the model color metals), but I still like the Scale75 ones better. One of the drawbacks of the Scale75 paints is that they were previously only sold in sets. So if you wanted one metallic color you had to buy the full set of 8. However, in the past month, they have started to sell their metallic paints individually as well as in sets. By the way, if you do buy the Scale75 paints be aware that they come sealed! Plenty of people squeeze until they explode, so remember to poke a hold in the top of the dropper bottle. Also they tend to separate in the bottle, so expect to give them a good deal of shaking whenever you're going to use them.

I did a brief tutorial on metals just a few days ago. The picture below should link you to that thread. I like working with the acrylic based metals as I can mix in other colors to help develop the look I want.


I took a slightly different approach with this one. Instead of mixing acrylics and matte colors I used pure metallic paints. Then I used inks to glaze over them and develop the shadows.


And here's a close up look at the yellow metal

 

[Nige]

Got some printers inks many years ago from Phil Kesslings shop in USA. Use W&N Liquin as a carrier and of course can add oil paints to them to suit.

 

[mick3272]

Hi
Thanks all
Gary D. I take it its only the three colours and it would appear that they are best used with oils, At the moment Ive, not used oils and am trying to risist as I havn't got room for more paints so I only use acrylics.

Graham. When you get around to trying Dark Star let me know what you think please,

Andrew. Yes it was your thread, sorry not to name you. As said I thought the metal work was First Class and that got me thinking about inks, as said above , the inks appear beat used with oils.

Bailey. Thanks I think I missed this, will go over it a few times The metals look very good. If Inks are dependent on oils I think this may well be the way forward for me.

Thanks all looks like I have a bit of research and reading to do.
Mick

 

[Mat Lambert]

Thanks to everyone for all the info in these posts , very useful
Cheers
Mat