question on lead foil use...

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JackG

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
221
Using this medium to fashion some gloves on an otherwise bare armed figure. The look is to have them tight at the wrist, but open and lose at the upper end around the forearm. Is there a method of hardening the lead foil once in place so it retains it's shape?

Or, should I be 'sculpting' this with a completely different material?

regards,
Jack
 
Hey Jack. I know of no method to firm up lead foil. You can try a heavier gauge of foil but that would probably look out of scale. For gloves I would use epoxy putty, which would be pretty simple (I did not say easy!) to do; just put a line of putty on each finger and thumb and then work it around to fit the whole finger. Same for the palm and backs of the hands. For the open and loose part at the top you can use the lead foil or flattened and cut to shape putty, placed on the figure while still pliable. Good luck!
 
Steve, thanks for the quick response and further ideas. I've no epoxy putty, so which brand do you suggest?

If I do order some of that stuff, while I'll wait, maybe I'll continue on with the lead foil around the forearms. I'll try applying a few layers of acrylic Future floor polish, that product dries rock hard and just might do the trick.

regards,
Jack
 
Depends on the scale. Foil would work on a 54mm but I'd go for putty on anything bigger. I'd use Magic Sculpt mixed with a touch of Greenstuff... rolled out to the thickness you want... let it sit for a bit then cut to shape and glue it at the wrist and flare out towards the top of the gauntlet.

Colin
 
Colin, thanks for that.
Interesting, another suggestion for adding a sculpting product to the Kneadatite - is this to extend it's working time?

The scale I'm working in is 1/12, and here is a shot of what I've done with the foil:

11298186076_56f9bfe5d6_c.jpg


regards,
Jack
 
It's a mixture I got off the Bill Horan video (posted on Figure News forum here a couple of weeks ago). 3 or 4 parts putty to 1 part Greenstuff. Result can be rolled out really thin without being brittle and also works well for sculpting clothing as the texture is very smooth. I'm still learning to work with it but it seems much easier than putty or greenstuff on their own.

The foil looks to be doing the job very well. If you're worried about the foil collapsing... maybe try the rough shape in putty then apply the foil on top. Trial and error ;)

Colin
 
Cool stuff... I've ordered the Kneadatite, but to keep shipping costs down I ordered putty from the same site, and all they had in stock was Vallejo Medium Plastic Putty in a 20ml tube - hope that works as well.

regards,
Jack
 
The Vallejo product is just really thick acrylic paint, designed to fill small gaps and imperfections. It is not expoxy putty and will not work. The mixing ratio of Kneadatite to Apoxie Sculpt that I use is 50-50. The reason for mixing is that Kneadatite alone resists sanding. The Apoxie Sculpt can be sanded. The Kneadatite is very finely grained and holds detail very well. The combination has the good properties of both.
 
Alrighty, green stuff is in... just waiting on this product:

p5597bsb.jpg


What kind of surface works best to roll the putty on so that it can be peeled off easily and applied to the figure - does it help to sprinkle some water underneath?

regards,
Jack
 
Use something slick and coat it with vaseline first. Not a lot but enough to let you peel the flattened putty up. Some put the putty inside a sandwich bag, again with vaseline on it; put the putty inside and begin rolling. I find a beer bottle works great for rolling though I do sometimes have to empty several before I find the perfect one.
 
What kind of surface works best to roll the putty on so that it can be peeled off easily and applied to the figure - does it help to sprinkle some water underneath?

regards,
Jack

I don't know if this would work the same way for Green Stuff, but I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt, and I use a thick piece of glass plate as my work surface. The pieces used in photocopiers work well for this purpose. And I use talcum powder with the putty. Works the same as working with cookie dough. You can put the powder in a bag, then put the putty in it and roll it, or sprinkle the talc on the work surface (that's what I usually do). I use a bottle, too, to roll, got that tip from our forum brother Martin Rohmann.

I have also experimented using butcher paper, I think it is, sold in rolls like wax paper or kitchen foil. It's terrible that I'm blanking now on the exact product, but it's sold by Glad, Reynolds, and the other makers of kitchen paper. It's surface retards sticking. However, I've found that working directly on the glass was easier for me.

I look forward to seeing how you decide, ultimately, to work with your putty.
 
Hello Baron, don't think I've ever seen butcher paper that is waxed, but sounds like it should work.

In the end I did the baggie/powder thing, with approx. 50/50 blend of the green stuff and apoxie sculpt. I think the only downside of the powder use is it greatly diminishes the adhesive quality of the putty surface. Once I had a flat section rolled out, I transferred that onto wax paper to cut out my pre-made pattern for the gloves and other detailing.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2861/11632790606_92faf471f7_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7302/11632411674_7de461d97f_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7405/11632388154_f016664940_c.jpg


Thanks everyone for the tips, and all the Best in the New Year!

regards,
Jack
 
I double-checked, it's freezer paper (by Glad). But I'm not as enthusiastic for it, as I was originally. Working with putty on the paper is not really any better than working with it directly on the glass surface. It does make cleanup a little easier, in that I can just chuck the sheet of paper. But cleaning the glass plate isn't such a big deal, either. So, I'm undecided whether I'll continue to use it.

Prost!
Brad
 
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