Completed Roman legionary, 1st cent ad (pegaso 54 mm)

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Johan Kees

A Fixture
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
530
Location
Belgium/Flanders/near Antwerp
Hi all

I call this little project of mine finished.

Eventually no snow was added but instead I turned to a layer of fallen leaves to simulate an autumn scene.

This is my first figure I have finished in just about three years. Just in time to enter it into next month's AMSS competition in Antwerp.

I hope you like the end result.

Romeinse legioensoldaat 023.JPGRomeinse legioensoldaat 024.JPGRomeinse legioensoldaat 025.JPGRomeinse legioensoldaat 026.JPG

Cheers

J;)han
 
Piotrec, Showlen, Ron, T34/85

Thank you all for the nice comments.

Regarding the green colour of the tree: my camera seems to pick up the greens more heavy than the actual colours are in reality. Nevertheless Ron, I can asure you that where I live, the trees do look very green as a result of the moss that thrives on humidity.

Piotrec, T34/85, I would love to help with a SBS but sadly enough I don't have pics of the different paint sessions that lead to the end result.

To be honest it's a lot trial and (more) error but I can give you these general hints on my working method: I start with a black primer (Chaos Black from GW in a spray can), a coloured undercoat (mostly acrylics) and then the basecoat of oils with the first highlighting and shading done wet on wet. After that I let the oils dry completely.

Then the 'hard' and slow wet on dry work starts with multiple layers of oil glazes which are carefully feathered out. For the clothing (matt areas) the oil paint is heavily diluted with odourless white spirits. For metals I use a real so-called glazing medium to mix up with the oil paint because the glazing medium makes the paint dry up with a sheen (adding more or less glazing medium affects this sheen).

All these glazes can take on what you could call the consistency of a wash. But to avoid the usual effect of a wash - running in all creases - I always let the tip of the brush 'drain' on a piece of paper towel before I apply the diluted paint on the marked area . And very importantly: between each paint/glaze session the paint is allowed to dry fully in my lamp oven.

I hope this was of any help.

J;)han
 
The shield motif is phenomenal. How did you do it? Did you freehand paint it?

- Steve
 
Fantastic Roman! I agree the shield is really well done. I think even with the strange light from the camera the style of the trees are very cool.
 
Steve, Legend, Ethan

Many thanks for the kind comments.

In this case the design on the shield was done free-handedlly. I used Danilo Cartacci's method which he describes in his excellent book Painting Miniatures. I could scan in the pages of the chapter but for copyright reasons I doubt if it would be allowed to show them here.

Basicaly you start with the complete background of the shield. Then you start outlining the design with a lighter shade of the background colour, building it up step by step. By chosing a lighter colour it's so much easier to rectify any fault. Danilo used acrylics for this, but I used well diluted Humbrol enamel because if needed enamels can be wiped away very easily with a clean brush slightly moistened with white spirit. However, make sure that the background colour has dried sufficiently in order to avoid damaging the prior work.

When you are satisfied with the dimensions of the design, you just start filling up the outlined design with the undercoat colour, here I used Humbrol's desert yellow. Then I applied the oil base colour and started highlighting and shading, as usual all done wet on wet.
When dry the internal design was drawn with the oil colours used for the shield background. Again these were well diluted. If you chose oil colours with strong pigments (in this case Venetian red and yellow ochre) the dilution rate can be quite high without affecting its covering power. And again any excess colour was wiped away with the clean brush moistened with white spirit.
Then the final highlighting and shading of the design was done with multiple layers of glazes.

To end I applied a glaze on the complete shield tying all colours together. In this final still wet glaze you still can do some extra highlighting or shading if needed.

So far the technique I used for this design. However, in most instances and for more complex designs I use my own technique to draw the outlines of designs on shields and fabrics:

Step 1
Search the internet or books to find a suitable design.
Step 2
Safe the design on the PC.
Step 3
Add the design to a Word file and adapt its dimensions to suit the figure.
Step 4
Print the design and cut it out very carefully with a very sharp X-Acto scalpel.
Step 5 a
If the background for the design is flat (i.e. a shield) position the cut out design on it and simply go around it with a sharp and hard pencil making sure the design is being kept on the same spot during the operation.
Step 5 b
If the background for the design is irregular (i.e. folding of fabric) take yet another step and copy the cut out paper design first on a piece of soft paper Tesa masking tape. Then the design is cut out again and put on the figure. Because the tape sticks you can push the design in the folding so that it follows the exact lines, just like the real thing actually.
Step 6 and following
Fill in the outlines with paint and do the highlighting and shading as explained above.

I hope all this makes any sense. If not just ask.

Cheers

J;)han
 
Johan
Thanks for taking the time to write this 'how to' up. It's very much appreciated. I like the idea of roughing the design in with the a lightened background colour rather than using the the base colour of the motif(y) . I would imagine if the background was white then I would use an off white instead. Much easier to clean-up if I made a mistake.
 
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