Sculpting the Face for the Scottish Pikeman

[neill]

So as requested and promised (sorry for the delay, that darn work thing keeps getting in the way) here is how I sculpt a face. I am using the Scottish Pikeman I am creating for the Medieval Campaign and my classroom - (Some of my students want me to auction it off as a fund raiser for “Wound Warriors Club” we have on campus – I will let you know)

Please note this is "according to Neill" and that is not egocentrism - really. It is a simply a reminder that as with any form of art - sculpting, modeling, painting, etc. - there is NO rights or wrong. This is just my way. Take what you want, keep what works, toss what doesn't and let me know if you have other ideas. Hopefully you will find something useful to add to your bag of tricks as you enjoy your hobby.

Here are my basic tools - First I use primarily Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculpt (Apoxie this time). I will leave the comparisons for another time I like both equally. My Major Sculpting tool is a small Jewelry Burnisher I purchased years ago in a Rock/Jewelry Craft Store. The other tools I use are Clay/Colour Shapers (Got mine locally at Dick Blick Art Store - http://www.dickblick.com/products/colour-shaper-mini-sets ) and some cheap rounded paint brushes 000, 00, 0,1, 2 sizes

First I mix up my Apoxie Sculpt. I mix it thoroughly with my fingers using latex gloves - keeps my hand clean for the work ahead. Once I mix it up I let it sit about 15-20 Minutes to let it harden. Any sooner and it tends to not hold a shape well enough for me. Next I make a Basic Skull in the approximate scale I am trying for in my initial drawing. Next I add the eyes balls, using a little of the putty to hold them in place . . .

The eyes are Beads I got from an old "pearl" necklace from Good Will ($2 – resin, not real pearls . . . I hope) you can also get them from Michael's or an arts/craft store. I personal like the HARD eyes as they maintain their shape better than balls of soft putty when I am working the eye area. Next I add the lower eyelids . . .

 

[neill]

I simply add a wedge of putting under the eyes as seen on the Left side of the face in the first picture above. Then using my burnisher I push the wedge into a lower eyelid. Remember the lower lid is relatively static in movement. Most of the movement, and hence express, comes for the upper eyelid area. Check out references, TV or, if you have a cell phone camera, check out your own eyes or others by video recording them. Second picture about I have smooth out the basic shape of the lower lids (Neill's Rule #1 - cut yourself some slack I smush and start over far more faces than finishing them) Next I add the wedges of putty for the top eye lids and the forehead ridge. . .

Picture 1 above shows the basic wedge shape add ( 1) and then I use the burnisher to push back into the eyes socket area (2) to create the upper lid. The eye browning looking thing in the first picture will be smooth into the frontal and side ride of the forehead (again get some good reference picture - Google online o help you measure it out mentally) Second picture above is me adding the BLOB.. Another wedge that will become the nose. Again I just add more than I think I need and be removing, shaping and smoothing the nose. More pushing of putty to get the right looking shape. There is not perfect nose - you can go classic Greek or try to mimic your character's ethnic features. (For me, being this is a Scot Pikeman, I make the nose busted... I am Scot by heritage and my has been busted 5-6 times, so it seem to fit) I sue the tip of a sharpen pencil or awl to push in the nostril area - Again check out peoples nose these opening and flairs vary per person. Most people, myself included, tend to sculpt these opening and nasal flares to big - just an observation and a warring). Next I add in the putty for the mouth area - just a simple roll of putty, to fill in the area.

This is where I would be adding an open mouth, teeth or a tongue if my figure was talking, shouting, smiling, etc. (maybe next time). As my figure will have a closed mouth, we will keep this one simple. The upper lip area will now be added looking much like an oversized moustache.

The ends of he mustache will become the sides of the mouth and will blend out and up into the cheek area. in the center picture above (and the first picture below) you will note the roll that filled the mouth area has been smooth into the area below the cheek bone. This accommodates the blending of the mouth- upper lip - into the face. In the center picture above you will notice an extra piece of putty under the eye. As I am working I am always adding and taking away putty. Trying to keep the face balanced from all views - Left, Right, Top, Bottom - I am constantly checking and rechecking. I occasionally look at the face in mirror I have on my art desk. This gives me a fresh perspective. If something looks out of place, add, push, smooth and cut away what does not look right. The Apoxie/Magic Sculpt is very forgiving. (An NO the face is not sticking its tongue out at me in the right hand pix. Just extra putty . . . I think)

The face is now starting to take shape and character. HE is not missing his dentures I have not added the small ball of clay that will become the lower lip and the chin. You can see I am constantly re-adjusting the face and the nose in particular. I will continually be working the eyebrow ridge above the eye, and to the sides. Using the burnisher and the shapers to create the lines from the nose and under the cheek.

I lower lip is push up from the ball of putty that makes up the chin. The red lines on the first picture above point our areas of excess putty, that I will balance and smooth out. Edges of the mouth typically line up with the center of the eyes - remember everyone is different and unique, but this is a good rule of thumb*. Since I am adding a full beard later I will leave some of the heavier lines around the mouth and upper lip to cheek area to help accommodated he beard while maintaining some of the expression of the face. As you will see later, adding hair on the head and facial hair will greatly change the look and character of this figure.
(* Rule of thumb - Actual an Middle Ages Rule in England which forbade the beating of one wife with any stick or branch thicker that you thumb. WARNING: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME)

Well there it is, the basic face is completed... still to come Ears, hair and in this figure, a full beard and mustache. I have lots of smoothing, and adjusting to do, but I hope this give you the basic idea. If you have any question ask away. Any comments, suggestion or new ideas let me know.
Neill
www.johnneill.com
SBS at http://prayershield.com/facesculpt.html

 

[neill]

sorry if this is in the wrong place did not see an SBS forum.

 

[ChaosCossack]

I have had numerous starts and stops (read failures) in the area of sculpting. This SBS has broken everything down to nicely workable steps that I am inspired to give it another go.

Definitely will use this as a future sculpting reference.
How about a SBS delving into the issue of the draping of clothing on the basic figure

Thanks

Colin

 

[neill]

I have had numerous starts and stops (read failures) in the area of sculpting. This SBS has broken everything down to nicely workable steps that I am inspired to give it another go. Definitely will use this as a future sculpting reference. How about a SBS delving into the issue of the draping of clothing on the basic figure. Thanks Colin

Thanks Colin - Appreciate your input. I had some great critism from another site so I did a bit more work..

So, thanks to Alan Ball suggestions, here it is…

Much improved . . . but still lots of work to get itto what I want...

Like the idea of a Draping SBS. time allowing I might give it a try . . .

Neill

 

[ChaosCossack]

Thanks again for the useful information. I will look forward to the progress of this project as it's shaping up quite well.
I will keep 6 for a possible SBS of draping in the future,

Cheers
Colin

 

[Wings5797]

A great article John. Lots of character in his expresion.
Many thanks.
Cheers,
Keith