Understanding NMM better?

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Kimmo

A Fixture
Joined
May 30, 2018
Messages
894
A while back I was monkeying around with GIMP, my photo editor of choice. I had a theory that maybe one could use the decrease colour count function to get a better understanding of how NMM works by decreasing the number of displayed colours in an image. I found a suitable image to test, and basically reduced the count by half each time, I probably should have started from 2 and worked up as the division doesn't quite work out nice and neat... Stills below and a video here

Kimmo


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Interesting, though I still look at the work of the old masters for inspiration. Not only NMM but the play of light on any surface, it doesn't always translate to 3D from the canvas but I find inspiration.

Cheers Simon
 
I look to other painters for inspiration as well, old masters and not, but when it comes to NMM I 'm having trouble breaking down the process so that it isn't all trial and error when it comes to placement of light and shadow, and how light behaves. The actual painting process is fairly straight forward from a technical point of view. Most tutorials feel like this to me when they say add the plane(s) of light and reflections, bounce lights and so on:


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My thinking was that if you reduce the amount of information to an understandable level by reducing the colour count, you might be able to better understand the behaviour of light as you go back up the scale again and introduce more information (colours). The next step will be to implement this on a figure by adding gloss to the metal areas and then shining a light from the desired direction, taking photos and reducing the colour count in the hopes this will provide a better starting point. All this would probably work better if the the light is coloured, or if the metal is say black and the rest of the figure is another colour. All this will unfortunately have to wait until I clear the backlog of stuff on and off the bench at the moment. If anyone tries this approach in the meantime, please let us know your thoughts and how it worked out.


Kimmo
 
I think the fewer colours you use initially the easier it will be, reflected colours really depend on the metals colour and lighting level. To my mind it's always easier keeping it simple and small, I only use it on 28 to 32mm figures which I rarely paint these days.

Cheers Simon
 
That digital function indeed looks very useful.

Kirill Kanaev’s FAQ book has a very elanorate explanation of how to do NMM. The good thing is he explains the theory behind it as well, so that one can apply it to any shape, also when lacking a painted example.

I am also carefully trying more NMM techniques in my figures, but I haven’t dared a full armour yet. Thing is with NMM it has to be 100% right, even 99% looks off.

Thanks for your post, very useful.

Adrian
 

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