Warts and all

[Ronaldo]

A tale of two wrongs don't make a right

This is a very nice casting or more precisely injection moulding I think as it came on a sprue .

From here on disaster ensued ,it did not fit well altogether but being a veteran of many Pegaso difficult pre paint assemblies I thought there are not many parts to this so I shall overcome " Wrong wrong wrong " as the whole thing ended in a shambolic build .

Head did not sit on the torso no matter what I tried, but foolishly pushed on regardless , arms did not sit right resulting in a very poor finish , I gotta take the blame again for not halting at this stage.
The left armour shoulder guard is badly pitted , this should have halted me ; but no I ploughed on

A strange thing happened when I primmer the base mount ( it started to weep some sort of fluid )
I hastily cleaned it off and back it came again so rubbed down with 800 grade wet and dry and primmer again
but no matter what I did it won't take paint properly as you will see in the photo.

I have got to take about 50% of the blame on this as impatience got the better of me.

Some suggestions here night help . IE make the locating pins square so that the right fit is made as trying to fit four parts together with variables does not help.

I have seen this bust put together well on Putty and paint but also I have seen one with a very similar problem.
Maybe I just got a Monday morning Turkey

Camera has gone tits up also

 

[MrBMB]

I would have sent an email back to company and stated the issues halfway through and see what they say. The base if resin sounds like it didn't cure properly or the resin was out of date or not mixed properly...……..just my thoughts

 

[Ronaldo]

I would have sent an email back to company and stated the issues halfway through and see what they say. The base if resin sounds like it didn't cure properly or the resin was out of date or not mixed properly...……..just my thoughts

I felt I had pushed it to far to go down that road, I'm not even sure if it is resin or some sort of plastic similar AFV and plane kits as the detail is extremely high

 

[MrBMB]

If the company is good they should listen, if not they wouldn't get my money again
I have had Mitch models and Jeff Shui send me out replacements no questions asked on small parts/issues that's why they still get my money!!! The best example is Life Miniatues emailed me and asked if I had an issue of a part with their latest release and said they would send me out a new part, now that is amazing service!!!!

 

[kagemusha]

From my short stint in the plastics industry...and...if as you say it's injection moulded...the weeping sounds likely to be the lubricant they use in the process!...as it would have been absorbed into the plastic during moulding.
They used to put small pieces into a bath of alcohol (IPA) to ensure they were clean before dispatch.

 

[Ronaldo]

From my short stint in the plastics industry...and...if as you say it's injection moulded...the weeping sounds likely to be the lubricant they use in the process!...as it would have been absorbed into the plastic during moulding.
They used to put small pieces into a bath of alcohol (IPA) to ensure they were clean before dispatch.

Not a clue Ron C , but I dont think it possible to get such detail other in injection moulding , look at the right shoulder armour

 

[Alex]

imho, 800 grit is too smooth to improve adhesion of paint. It's fine after priming to increase adhesion of paint to primer but I would try something like 320-400 grit before priming, after multiple degreasing baths... and do not touch resin with your bare hands, use gloves at all times

 

[Ronaldo]

imho, 800 grit is too smooth to improve adhesion of paint. It's fine after priming to increase adhesion of paint to primer but I would try something like 320-400 grit before priming, after multiple degreasing baths... and do not touch resin with your bare hands, use gloves at all times

I don't think it is resin as the detail is way to high and anything less than 800 grit would have just scratched the surface

 

[Forté]

I take it that was a dark grey resin as it's by Big Child creatives. Their resin is a bit more plastic like and sometimes brittle but that's the first time I've heard of it leaking. That's usually due to the resin not being mixed properly and not curing completely.

Like has already been mentioned, as soon as you come across an issue like leaking you should contact the seller or manufacturer. This could also highlight a bad batch too.

 

[valiant]

It is most likely uncured resin, which, if its an old batch, or not well-mixed, can leak an oily residue. New silicone rubber moulds pick up amazing details (even finger prints) and the newer breeds of polyurethane resin feel very much like plastics (to which they are related!)

 

[Ronaldo]

It is most likely uncured resin, which, if its an old batch, or not well-mixed, can leak an oily residue. New silicone rubber moulds pick up amazing details (even finger prints) and the newer breeds of polyurethane resin feel very much like plastics (to which they are related!)

You are dead right , this will make me steer well clear of dark resin , it has gone too far to claim fault issues ; a bit like eating half a dinner then saying its crap .
Again my fault for not putting the brakes on sooner.

 

[MrBMB]

I disagree if the resin is leaking you haven't gone too far. Do you think if you finish painting a figure and it starts leaking you go O well it's my fault, stop pussy footing around and send the company an email and say you want another one that doesn't leak!!!

Tell them you will send the other base back, its most likely a health risk as well, like most resins are anyway, but leaking is different.

It will also hopefully help another customer out, by them not getting the same issue hopefully.

 

[valiant]

TBH, the colour of the resin is immaterial, as it is coloured at mixing, with a powder filler. The actual resin, uncoloured, is usually a pinky cream colour, on curing.

 

[yellowcat]

When the two part resin mixture wasn't mixed equally before it was poured into the kit mould, the resin will never fully cure. After you have primed the kit and ready to paint it, only to find that an oily substance leaches up through the primer.

Here is the procedure to cure the sticky resin problem. It is called “Shocking the Resin” which is used in the garage kit community.
Put the uncured parts in a glass tub like Cornuingware which will retain the heat. Fill the tub with hot boiling water from a kettle until water level is about three inches above the tallest part of the kit. Let the resin parts soak in the hot water (you may want to add in more boiling water) until the water is cold. Remove the parts from the water. You will notice a white chalky substances on the surface of the resin parts. Wash the resin parts in dish washing soap like Dawn until all the white residue has been removed. Let dry and you can proceed to prime your parts again.