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jknaus

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
278
Location
Cold Lake, Alberta Canada
I have finished the red on my figures jacket and after a couple days I started on the white, Unfortunately it is leaving major brush streaks. I used thinned, straight up, and inbetween but can not get rid of the streaks. It also is not covering well. What could I be doing wrong. I can try taking a pic tomorrow if you need to see it to help me. I just dont know what to do now. Thanks in advance.
James
 
Maybe your brush isn't soft enough? You can get that effect if you use the wrong brush but we need more info first.
 
pictures

Here are some. My camera picks up everything so I'm not too proud at the moment (even though so far the figure looks better in real life. I am using Windsor and Newton oils. The brush is a large round (1 or 2 I think) that I also used for the red. Thanks in advance for any help guys.

DSC00789.jpg

DSC00787.jpg

DSC00785.jpg

James
 
Did you use any basecoat? Looks to me like you 're painting strait on the metal.
If that's so we can easily solve the problem; spray your figure with a base coat first. Your painting will go much easier.
 
Hi James
it may be better to undercoat with a red acrylic first
and i think titanium white will cover better than zinc white...good luck
Martin
 
James, first of all, Zinc white is not as opaque as Titanium white. Unfortunately it looks to be a fresh tube, but I would highly recomend switching to titanium, it will yield better results.

Secondly, and possibly more importantly, you should be undercoating areas like this before you paint with oils. I would recommend a good, flat primer coat, then use a quality acrylic paint as an base coat. I primer with Valejo and also use them as an undercoat. I apply a base coat of acrylics in what I would describe as a medium tone of the oil color going over it. One thing to remember with oils is, you are painting a VERY thin layer of paint!!!!! Despite the opacity of some colors, it is going on the figure in very thin, translucent layers. That is why the undercoating process is so important for me. Some folks don't use acrylic undercoating, but I found it to be absolutely necessary for my painting style. Much of what you see in the final result is the color of the undercoating doing the work.

Lastly, what you will find with a good acrylic undercoat, is that despite the oils being transparent, you will cover much better with less paint. I don't thin my oils AT ALL when painitng. Some people "leach-out" the carrier from thier paints before painting (place the oils on a thick card stock paper or paper plate and you will see the carrier suck out into the surrounding paper), this provides a more matte finish most of the time (blues being the exception). Remember that with the oils, a little bit goes a long way. Mix all of your shades before hand, shadows, mids and highlights. Then apply them each in steps. I start with shadow tones in the crevaces and along boundries. I then mix in my mids and finish with the highlights on the tops. I hardly use any paint at all when it comes down to it. One other thing to keep in mind is that I have been known to go back in and re-paint some areas a second time if the coverage is not what I wanted. Don't be afraid to let your first round of paint dry for several days, save your palette in the freezer (it will keep for several days there) and go back and work right over the top of your last pass to gain opacity where needed!

Practice, practice, practice! Don't be afraid to make mistakes, I'm the master of them! HTH,

Jay H.
OKC
 
paint

Thanks all. Yes the figure is primed with automotive grey primer. Its what I use for all of my models. I'll pick up a tube of Titanium white today (hopefully they have some) and try that. Thanks again.
James
 
White is a challenge in oils, no doubt. In addition to the good advice here, it will help to add a tint of another color of a warm brown or cool blue for your oil base. I personally like sepia and burnt umber. IMO, you should never start out with a pure Titanium White for your oil base. Keep adding the tint to the mix for your shadows and pure TW for the highs. This is all wet on wet. Then go back and reapply your deep shades (may be Sepia or Burnt Umber neat) and highest high wet on dry.

Keith
 
James, never be afraid to ask questions, as you can see Planet figure members are very happy to help you.
My advice to you is to keep on practicing and ask lots of questions.

Cheers
Roc
 
white paint

Okay the titanium is much better. Unfortunately my painting skills suck so am going to strip the model and reprime and repaint. Will post pics if it comes out better. Thanks for all of the help guys.
James
 
Okay the titanium is much better. Unfortunately my painting skills suck so am going to strip the model and reprime and repaint.
James

Never strip. That's what i learned. But learn from your mistakes and repaint.
When you strip, the next time you make a mistake you strip again. Afterall you never get finished a figure.
I was there, i did that.

marc
 
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