My Way With Oils

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kagemusha

kagemusha

A Fixture
Joined
Jun 8, 2010
Messages
3,380
Location
Lincolnshire
After the recent discussion on oil painting I thought it might be interesting to show how we each approach painting with oils. For this WIP/SBS I am using Pegasos gorgeous recent bust of a Gaul Chieftain. It has already been said that this is far from historically accurate but, for me at least, it is all about the simple pleasure of the painting. I was very impressed with the quality of casting with very little clean up needed. It is unusual in that the hair is made up of several pieces and the broach and ends of the necklet are also separately cast as are the helmet horns. Fit of all parts is A1.
I begin as we all do by cleaning and mounting the pieces, with any assembly of other parts done in order to keep painting as straightforward as possible. I added some damage to the shield for effect. Once cleaned etc., I undercoat with GW Skull White and leave to dry for 24 hours.


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For the next stage I decide on a basic colour theme for the piece and mix a colour that is as close in shade to the colours I intend to use. This is then applied as a 'scrub' coat to all of the sub assemblies, making sure to get it into every detail and undercut. As you can see in the pictures, there is no finesse in how it is applied and it is a lot thicker than a normal film of paint. By the time all the sub-assemblies are done it is time to start thinning it out. For this I use a combination of make-up brushes and sponges. I use these because they are the softest available and will not leave brush marks or shed hairs or fibres. Using the large one on the left in the picture, I begin to brush over the pieces until I have thinned the paint to a transparent glaze. You have to keep wiping the brush on a clean piece of cotton in order to prevent putting the paint back. For finer detail I use the smaller brush, and for larger areas such as the shield the sponges. What you should end up with is a pre-shaded effect where all the detail is brought out and the shadows are easier to denote. My choice of colour is based on my liking for earthy, muted colours but any colour can be used based on personal preference.



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Once I am happy with the depth of the remaining glaze of paint, I start to work in a few base shades to the skin and shield. These colours are again my personal choice based on how I want the finished piece to look and the atmosphere I hope to create.

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Having laid in some base shades I let the pieces dry for 72 hours in a warm cupboard. I do this as I like to work wet on dry for the next stage.

Cheers

Ron
 
I'm an oil painter too, but this is a total different approach to how I paint..so I'm going to follow this and hopefully learn something new, thanks Ron for showing your painting style it looks interesting.
Cheers
Jim
 
Hi Marc, thanks for looking in. I do undercoat resin and metal using GW Skull White because it has a good porous surface that suits my technique and is easy to apply from an aerosol. Glad to have you following.

Regards

Ron
 
Hi Jim, glad you find my style interesting and hope some of it is of help to others looking to start into what can be a daunting medium. I have seen a lot of your stuff on PF and am pleased you think I may have something for you to use.

Cheers

Ron
 
Thanks Roger, and even though it is not your usual medium I hope there will be something of use to you in the later stages.

Regards

Ron
 
Oh yes Roger, all must be revealed now. Did try the water soluble oils way back but could not get on with them so let us know how they go for you.

Ron
 
kagemusha said:
Hi Marc, thanks for looking in. I do undercoat resin and metal using GW Skull White because it has a good porous surface that suits my technique and is easy to apply from an aerosol. Glad to have you following.

Regards

Ron
Click to expand...

O yes, it always good to see another technique for oil. What i mean is: you don't use a undercoat of Humbrol, Vallejo after you primed, and before starting with the oilpaint.

Marc
 
Hi Marc, on resin it is just the skull white but on metal I use Tamiya light grey primer then skull white because it does not hold to metal as well as the tamiya does. Hope that makes sense.

Ron
 
Hi Ron
Just picked up on this one, I use this technique when painting leather but always trying to push it forward to other colours,
will be following very closely (y)
A little question!! After your preliminary glaze is your subsequent coats glazes also.

Ron T
 

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