My Way With Oils

[kagemusha]

Hi Steve, not sure about black as my technique relies a lot on the transparency of oils allowing the base colour to show through. Maybe a burnt sand or terracotta might work for a bay or chestnut. Black might work for an iron grey dapple tho.
Hmmmmm....................now you got me thinking.

Ron

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Hi Ron,

Good to see another take on using oils buddy. There's often a lot with using acrylics so its good that oils are getting some exposure ! : )

Interesting that you are painting over a white basecote where as I paint over a coloured base of enamel or Andrea acrylic. It is like you are working up from your darkest shadows with the dark scrub cote and I guess it also helps with placing shadows etc as it kinda' maps them out for you.

When you use the term 'glaze' I think of a thinned medium. Rather than neat oil paint spread out thin... But then most oils are not that opaque and even the ones that are, once spread out take on a glazed kinda Finnish with the base cote grinning through.

Acrylics are for painting walls ; )

And ceilings
Ron T



Carlos

 

[Carlos69]

Ron I prefer Humbrol enamel and Andrea acrylic for basecotes as they are really matt, moreso if I airbrush the paint ... the base cote is normally a little lighter than my topcotes. This is painted over Tamiya grey primer.

Carlos

 

[John Bowery]

Ron,
Thanks for chiming in with this SBS. It is a very interesting thread. I am also an oil user and always looking to learn.
Cheers
John

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Ron I prefer Humbrol enamel and Andrea acrylic for basecotes as they are really matt, moreso if I airbrush the paint ... the base cote is normally a little lighter than my topcotes. This is painted over Tamiya grey primer.

Carlos

Thats the way I go ,but I am most interested in Kagemusha's way " hey that could be a marshal art"

 

[kagemusha]

That is a mirror of my approach Carlos except I prefer Skull White from an aerosol for ease of application. With winter here I will be looking to set up the AB so will look into your enamel base coat and try different colours/shades. What thinner do you use for enamels?

Hi John, pleased you find the thread interesting and hope you will let us know how this technique compares with your own.

Cheers

Ron

 

[Tubby-Nuts-REMOVED]

Ron,... I am currently working on a 90mm, Horse! (Chestnut) Trying to find my bloody camera!!!.. I used a, 'Red-Oxide, under-coat,, then sprayed a Base colour coat of Humbrol Mid-earth, and a very light coat of mid- sand. Once it had cured, I then used the oils, initially 'Burnt-Sienna', and Burnt-Umber, to give the initial glaze, and started to build from there!... By my own standards, I am very happy with the result.

Mark

 

[kagemusha]

So show. Find that bloody camera. This I wanna see.

Ron

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Find the bloody camera Mark!! lets see it, sounds interesting

Ron T

 

[Tubby-Nuts-REMOVED]

No pressure then!..... I based the colour on a 'Figure', that I found here on PF, long before I joined! and had it saved to fav's as reference. (See p72, Painting Talk, Mounted trooper, by 'Giorgiomalteser'. ) The colour is almost a 'Mirror-Image', of what I have, as well as the shading etc, However. I have included a white-blaze on the head. But I will post some pic's when I have found my camera. So you can compare.

Mark

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

It can't be that fare away ,have you tried your spares parts box maybe your workbench is like mine and piled high with stuff

 

[Tubby-Nuts-REMOVED]

RonT,...... The 'Oberst', has just told me she put my Camera-Bag!... In the loft!!............ Why???... Well, she will be up there tonight!!

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

I think you need to demote her to Private

 

[Tubby-Nuts-REMOVED]

Ron T........ Thats exactly where she would put her 'Jack-Boot', If I even mentioned such a thing!....... Plus you would get intimate images of my 'Colon'.

Mark

 

[kagemusha]

Here we go with next stage then;
Having used the scrub coat to reveal shadows and bring out detail on the shield, it's time to work in some more colours and bring the detail to life. I start by just putting in some colours that will help enhance the wood effect. These are blended into the background colour with the small make-up brush. Next I start to pick out individual ares of the woodgrain in a dark sepia. Once these areas look right I move onto the edges of the grain with a light grey. Finally finishing it off with gentle strokes across the surface with the small make-up brush once again.

 

[Helm]

Very interesting stuff just one SFQ. The make up brushes not having any experience in that dept is there a specific sort to use ?

Steve

 

[kagemusha]

Having reached a suitable stage with the back of the shield I move round to the front.
Because I want the ground colour I have chosen to have a subtle glow I first brush on a very thin layer of Cadmium Yellow. This will stop my intended colour from going too dull. For the rest of the colours I switch to stippling as opposed to brushing. This has the advantage of adding a slight texture to the surface which will help later with worn hi-lites and dirtying up etc. I use several different shade of warm colours with Payne's Grey added for cuts and edge shading as well as around the boss. I then apply edge hi-lites to the cuts with a light grey.

 

[kagemusha]

Hi Steve, they are the ones used for applying blusher so my girlfriend tells me. I must give her credit for these as they were her idea along with the sponges. I get them from our local Monday market very cheap.

Ron

 

[Tubby-Nuts-REMOVED]

Ron!... The use of a make-up brush ! for 'Brushing-off and Blending,........ is, such a good tip!.... As no woman, would want stray hairs kicking about... I bought a bunch today!. Your absolutly right they are very fine, and no shedding.,.. I am loving this 'inner-shield', woodwork effect.

Mark

 

[kagemusha]

Yes mate they really work well. Glad you like the wood work. Both sides have to dry before the final detailing and metal work.

Ron