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I think I know what you mean with those pose books (posefiles, illustrator reference guide series etc.). The quality of the photos tend to be that bad you can't distinguish the folds. The US posefile series is better since you can get the cd's with the large colour pics where you can see the...

Hehe, monsters is actually what got me into sculpting. When I started roleplaying I only had some human miniatures since there were no stores around to get monsters and stuff. So my first miniature was a clay orc (which didn't survive my mouldmaking attempt :( ). I hope I find time for this...

Hi, Heresy has just started a miniature monster sculpting competition for those who are interested. Details are here: http://www.heresyminiatures.com/monstercontest.htm Scale is 28mm and it is to be suitable for production. Bye, Ming-Hua

I agree on the Tarzan style comments. It's no surprise since he drew Tarzan but it does limit the book in the respect of realistic examples. Same with his other books unfortunately. As to the how, why and when comment. I'm not sure I understand you correctly. The emphasis in the book is on why...

Quang: what other drapery picture book? Do you know that book I mentioned in my mail? "Dynamic wrinkles and drapery" by Burne Hogarth? The theory (thrust, bend, compressions, crossing, different materials etc.) is explained in that book. The photo book that's planned could work well as an...

Hi, a while ago I was contacted by Douglas Johnson about a new book they had with pose references for sculpting the human figure (see www.artmodels.biz and www.livemodelbooks.com). We got talking and he told me they were thinking of doing a similar book with clothed figures as drapery...

Pirated? how did they do that?

Thanks for the link. My favourite book an the subject is "The artist's complete guide to facial expressions" by Gary Faigin and this is a great addition. Especially since this also shows muscles and skull making it easier to understand how it works together. Bye, Miing-Hua

Hi, just a little remark on plastics from my days at the engineers college. Polymers have a (temperature wise) long stage between solid and melt which is called the rubberphase. For polystyrene this starts around 95°C. Heating it above that point will make the plastic flexible and the closer...

Hi, if it helps, I put a demo over here: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/minimaker3/d...50e.jpg&.src=ph That's with brown stuff but green stuff works the same. Just make sure you have a picture around of a real beard as a reference. Bye, Ming-Hua

Hi, RTV rubbers are indeed more forgiving. It's does not have to be squeezed and heated to create a mould, so all materials listed can be processed with that. I'm a little surprised your masters are a mess after mouldmaking. With a good mould release (I use diluted vaseline) RTV silicone lets...

No worries Luca. Q, experimenting is very important and should be encouraged. It's one of my favourite things to do as well. Things on that list are a tad harder to test without the proper equipment. So casters already did the experimenting for us. Though some "experiments" were not on purpose...

Hi Q, not sure I'm understanding your comment but the most important rule in that list is actually "When in doubt, always check with the mold-maker". :) Background of that list: it's a collection of comments we got from the professional mouldmakers on 1listsculpting who specialise in...

If it has to go through a vulcanized rubber mould proces, yes. Here is some info from the 1listsculpting FAQ: ***** 3.3 -What materials should I not use? If a miniature is not going to be vulcanized, then you are pretty much free in your choices of materials. Otherwise, vulcanization usually...

Hi, superglue will actually be affected by heat and pressure when going through a vulcanizing mouldmaking process. From the way I understood it, it will dissolve. So even if it would stiffen the putty the effect will be lost during mouldmaking. There is still a bit of discussion on whether or...

Right, one more tip. If you warm the green stuff a little under a lamp (not too long or it will cure!) it will become a fair bit stickier. Using more yellow than blue helps too. I often use it as "glue". Bye, Ming-Hua

Hi, Well, most people seem to make the whole sculpt and cut it apart though I've seen a few figures too which were sculpted in separate parts. With 28mm figures most use green stuff. This is easy to slice through using a hobby knife (no material loss) so what I do is that I make a cut all...

You're welcome. And if any of you have links to add, go ahead. :) Bye, Ming-Hua

Hi, I just posted part of the 1listsculpting reference sites and books list over at another forum and thought you might be interested too. If you have more suggestions for interesting sites, let us know. These are just the websites etc. I've left the (long) list of books out. Movement...

Hi, the quantities are different. Browns stuff is sold in a 4" strip while the green stuff is sold as 2 50gr rolls which in it's old form was a 36" strip. So Brown stuff is about four times as expensive. :) Have fun experimenting and feel free to ask questions if needed. Bye, Ming-Hua