WIP 1/16 Germans in Europe "Countryside Assault"

[1969]

Makes sense mate from what you are saying and early war defeat of France isnt often covered, only downside is you might struggle to get anything French in 1/16-120mm so you might have to scratch everything if its equipment, I am sure dead soldier could be converted from something else with some changes to uniform.
A French helmet discarded would look good and give distinction that the scene is in France.

Hope to catch up with you soon mate,

Steve

 

[ryall]

Sorry to post again
But I think the base looks great and so does Jeff's figure. I really don't think you need another figure on this base.
"Less is more" I think in this instance.

Ryally
http://www.brisbanemodelbuilder.com/

 

[Dr Force]

Hi

Thanks for your input and help with this and I agree with what you say.

I think I will go with some old sandbags and some equipment on top so will get cracking.

Dave

 

[JasonB]

Instead of sandbags and such, how about something that looks like part of the Maginot line? A little pill box or something. The scene would be a statement about the line in general-the Germans just going around it. Maybe something like a one man observation post, like this but smaller

You wouldn't have to show the entire thing, just a "wedgie" or half of it.

 

[Dr Force]

Hi All

Found some time to start painting the figure now and have decided with the less is more philosophy on the scene.

Once it's all done I'll see if it it needs any further work on the top of the bank.

As always I start with the eyes and work outwards until the head is complete (accept for the strap), it's summer so I wanted a slight tan on this guy, which I'll match on the arms.

The eyes are acrylic and the skin tones are oils. The oils are still fresh so will let them go off a bit before gently smoothing out any stroke marks and finish with a touch of varnish on the highest point of the cheek bone to add a tad more life :-

 

[Lew J]

I'm a bit late on this one, but think it's looking excellent even before any revisions were made.

You should be very proud of your ground building skills as imo this can make or break a piece. Glad to see you also included a few hints and tips on your work which I expect I'll be adopting in future.

Overall GREAT, keep up the high standard of work which pushes us all to achieve finishes such as yours.

 

[Dr Force]

I'm a bit late on this one, but think it's looking excellent even before any revisions were made.

You should be very proud of your ground building skills as imo this can make or break a piece. Glad to see you also included a few hints and tips on your work which I expect I'll be adopting in future.

Overall GREAT, keep up the high standard of work which pushes us all to achieve finishes such as yours.

Thank you very much for your kind comments it is very much appreciated.

You are right about the groundwork being a bit make or break as it helps to create the illusion of scale. The key thing is planning what goes where and then once you have the basics, it's a case of making it look as natural as possible.

If you ever need any help then please just ask, there are far more talented people in these forums who are quite frankly inspirational, however we all have something to give and if I can help in anyway then great.

I have now painted the majority of the equipment so will concentrate on the main body now but it's coming together nicely.

Thanks
Dave

 

[Dr Force]

Finished the face and helmet.

A tad of tidying up on the strap, but its about done.

All the equipment is also now painted including the MG34. I hope my painting is justifying this exceptional sculpt!!!!

I tried something new with the helmet which is painted with enamels. To get the worn effect I let the paint go about 75% dry and then dabbed with blu-tac which lifted the paint off to reveal the steel:-

 

[Ferris]

Looking pretty good David.

If you'll allow me a few minor comments I would recommend to give the lips a slightly warmer tone, to put some dark shadow in the mouth cavity and, maybe (depending on how everything looks in real life; I base this on the quite bright pics), add a slightly darker shadow in the area between eye brows and upper eyelid, since the figure is leaning forward and the helmet would give plenty of shade.

I look forward to your progress.

Oh, and please show that MG34.

Cheers,
Adrian

 

[Dr Force]

Hi Adrian

Thank you for your input and comments, your help is appreciated.

The mouth cavity (in real life) is quite dark but I can increase the colour on the lip. When you say warmer, do you mean more pink?

As for the sockets, I can easily amend this, but I do not want to over do it as it already has a slightly darker tone but I can go up a notch.

Thanks
Dave

 

[housecarl]

A very natural looking face Dave, but as Adrian says you could add to the lips a touch.
Are you going to Figure World, if you are it wouuld be nice to have a look?
Carl.

 

[Dr Force]

Hi Carl

thanks for dropping by.

I have added some more shadow to the mouth, added a touch more pink to the lips and a bit more shadow to the eye sockets and forehead beneath the helmet.

What date is figure world mate and do they sell figures at the show?

Cheers
Dave

 

[Dr Force]

Following Adrians & Carls suggestion I have added some darker tones to the relevant spots and I think it looks better so thanks chaps.

I have also uploaded a close up of Jeff's MG34 painted, it's quality sculpting all round.

I have left the stock black as having researched I cannot see a wooden stock for this gun in 1941 or earlier?:-

 

[Lew J]

looking good mate like the subtle stubble, if you don't mind me asking how did you achieve this effect as I have trouble with this?

 

[Dr Force]

looking good mate like the subtle stubble, if you don't mind me asking how did you achieve this effect as I have trouble with this?

Hi Lewis

I paint in oils so it may be differnt for you depending upon which medium you use.

I always do the stuble wet on wet it gives a more natural appearance IMO.

All you need is a tiny dab of paynes grey with a hint of burnt umber, mix it together to make a very dark brown, remove all the excess off the brush and lightly place 4 dabs on the far side of the cheek, the highest point of the chin,toplip and the other cheek.

I then clean the brush and add a tiny amount of Buff and slowly smooth together to give a convincing stuble.

Please note you only need a tiny amount of paint and do not be worried to work in, just be careful not to over load with paint otherwise you get brush marks everywhere.

Thanks
Dave

 

[housecarl]

Looking good Dave. Figure Worlds on the 23rd July, and unfortunately there will be traders.http://www.tbforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=6860&highlight=figureworld
Hopefully see you there,
Carl.

 

[Lew J]

Thanks for the advice Dave I'll give it a try.

 

[Dr Force]

Carl, thanks for the info matey, I will no doubt be going, I suspect Steve & Ken will also go??

I have done alot of the shading on the jacket now, it's all oils with some matt varnish mixed in so it is still very wet.

I'll wait 48 hours before adding some more shading in some area's. The jacket is a little more grey than the pics suggest and is made up of Black,burnt umber, olive green & buff. As the uniforms varied so much between light grey to green or almost brown, you can adjust the amount of each oil to get the effect you want to reflect the era or battlefield.

I have been using my superb reference book called Deutsche Soldaten by Agustin Saiz and it has all the available clothing and equipment you could wish for:-

 

[housecarl]

Steve, Chippy & Ken have got a stall mate.
See you there,
Carl.

 

[Dr Force]

Steve, Chippy & Ken have got a stall mate.
See you there,
Carl.

Fantastic, look forward to seeing you all again.