Acrylics paint mixing/thinning ratios

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Ferris

A Fixture
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
5,462
Location
The Netherlands
Hi guys,

I have always used enamels and oils for figures, but am now exploring acrylics. So far I am quite impressed, but I have some questions to which I cannot find answers in my modelling library. I hope some of you can give me some advice on the following:

1. What thinning ratios do you use (paint:water) for shading and highlighting? (I went 1:5 so far, but some borders are still quite sharp). If you go thinner, how to get a nice even layer? (I tried 'unloading' the brush, but how far should you take this...?)

2. For very gradual transitions of shadow to light: how many intermediate shades do you use?

3. Do you apply the same shade in several layers, before progressing to the next darker/lighter one?

I hope I can gather some 'statistics' here!

Thanks in advance. It will help me a lot to understand this!

CU, Adrian
 
Hi Adrian,

There are no "rules" as such, it comes downto what you think works for you.

For me, I start with fairly strong ratios (1:1) for base coating, and then gradually thin my ratios down a lot when highlighting and shading to 5:1 and even 10:1. For the most extreme highlights and shadows, I generally use the most extreme dilution.

Sometimes, when I'm trying to blend an area where I want a smooth transition I will use pure distilled water only, no paint at all, and just work the surface lightly with a very fine brush in a stipling motion.

The bottom line is you have to keep experimenting. I started using acrylics about 5 years ago and I'm still learning how to use them.
 
Ferris said:
1. What thinning ratios do you use (paint:water) for shading and highlighting?
The best advice is not to think in terms of ratios because you can be assured they won't always work the same - no two versions of the same paint might be quite the same to begin with and different people's bottle/pots will have dried out different amounts. So five painters might need to each add different amounts of water to get the same consistency even though they're using using 'the same' paint.

A better general idea is to gauge consistency, rather than assuming a given dilution ration will give you this each time.

Note: although consistency is very important, the effect is what's most important, not the consistency that led to it if you get the distinction. With differences in the absorbency of primer layers, humidity and temperature varying so much from workroom to workroom and other variables two people might need to be using more or less dilute paint to achieve the same results.

Ferris said:
If you go thinner, how to get a nice even layer? (I tried 'unloading' the brush, but how far should you take this...?)
Multiple coats. If you go very thin it might require four or more layers to get a uniform basecoat (although you'll read of more being required for some colours).

But generally speaking you want to thin just enough. For undercoats you might aim for something like the consistency of single cream or heavy milk. For general layering about the consistency of milk or skimmed milk.

For the subtlest glazes you can use paint so dilute it's basically dirty water.

Ferris said:
2. For very gradual transitions of shadow to light: how many intermediate shades do you use?
Depends a bit on the colour (and maybe on how patient I'm feeling). I used to commonly use seven, but typically use four or five now - two highlights, midtone and one or two shadow mixes. But small amounts of intermediate mixes of any two adjacent pre-mixed colours are sometimes useful. I'll create these by brush as needed as I go along.

Middle-value colours will require more mixtures than something quite dark (black could easily be done with just three mixtures, even just with two at a stretch), and light colours might require the most mixtures for best results.

Ferris said:
3. Do you apply the same shade in several layers, before progressing to the next darker/lighter one?
If needed. Generally this will be required but it depends on what you're doing and the opacity of the paint, as well as the dilution.

Einion
 
Hi Tony & Einion,

Thanks for your elaborate responses! Much appreciated.

'Painting Fallschirmjaeger figures' by Jaume Ortiz gave a very good start I must say, but you mentioned some things that I never read in the magazines and books so far. I'll keep going on this!
By the way, Tony, your SBS on Brittisch camo also gave some good clues!

I am trying out acrylics on two 120mm panzer guys: one black, one pea pattern camo. I'll show some results in a few weeks!

Thanks!

Adrian
 
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