Advice on glues for putting together metal figures

[Ybrossculpts]

Hi planeteers,
Just wondering what would be a good recommendation for a 'glue' to use on metal figures? Oh and a happy new year to everyone on the forum.
Regards
Chris.

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

After trying many different types, I eventually settled on 'Gorilla', products. However each of us will have there own fav's.



Mark.

 

[Ybrossculpts]

After trying many different types, I eventually settled on 'Gorilla', products. However each of us will have there own fav's.

View attachment 226135

Mark.

Hi Mark,
Thanks for the tip, so would this just be an equivalent to super glue? A chap from a meet a few weeks ago suggested a two part apoxy glue.

 

[Ybrossculpts]

Doh! Just saw the super glue name on packaging, it's not looking good for me already this year

 

[Mark S]

G'day Stoffy, I've been meaning to introduce myself to you, my name is Mark S. from Port Stephens NSW.......oddly enough I've been called stoffy myself because of my surname.
But then again I've also been called a ********, a fat bastard and a figure modeller but they have no relation to my real name.

As far as glue for metal figures is concerned you should drill and pin major joins and use a Cyanoacrylate glue which is often labelled as 'super glue'.
For joins which you may consider requires much more strength you should use an epoxy mix glue such as araldite. Best results are had if that glue is slightly warmed.........these glues will also be best for very small parts which may otherwise be easily knocked off.
But for most figures the Cyanoacrylates will be the best glue for the job.......keeping in mind that drilling and pinning will also strengthen any join.

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

Well this is the learning curve with glues,

I have a drawer full of two-stage, epoxy glues. Including. 'Uni-Bond', 'Evo-Stick', 'Araldite', 'Locktite'.

I keep them as a reminder, as to know that they did not work for me. then I went to 'Gel-Super glue'. High control.

However, whilst using white metal! and flat-to-flat surfaces @ 90mm .. Rather than pinning I used a 'Counter-sink' approach with a little bit of 'Milliput', and glue.

More than likely you would break the figure before the join. if you wanted to pry it apart.

Mark

 

[Ybrossculpts]

Thanks for the the input Mark and Mark. The reason I've called myself Stoffy is because the wife gets it from Christopher, apart from a few other names she calls me which is possibly for another post. Appreciate the advice gents that should help me especially the pinning part.
Chris.

 

[Gary D]

I usually pin the arms and legs and use CA to hold them together. If the joint can't support the weight, I'll use CA glue in the center area and 15 minute 2 part epoxy around the outer area. The CA glue will hold it in place until the 15 minute epoxy sets.

Good luck!
Gary D

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Pinning has got to be the answer for all major parts and if you can pin the smaller items also .
Thing about the epoxies are ; you are better providing some sort of key esp on flat areas .
I generally use the super glues these days , my favourite being Rocket Max thick non runny with 10 to 20 secs adjusting time ; its from delux products .

Was in electrical wholesalers today and noticed Industrial strength Cyno at £3.45 for a decent sized bottle prob about 50 Grams , this stuff should be even better than the latter as it is for gluing in the electrical industry .

Don't know about the gorilla stuff as it just looks a bit pound-ish to me

 

[Alex]

For big figures, I pin every big joint, score the faces of the joints with a blade or sandpaper and use 30 min epoxy.
Never had an epoxy joint fail.
I also fill empty torsos with epoxy putty in order to increase the contact area between the torso and the legs.

 

[Ybrossculpts]

Thanks Gary, Ron and Alex for the further advice, I have the normal super glue and ca. The super glue is the thin quick drying stuff so maybe I need to check around for a thicker type? When pinning I presume it's a drilled in wire say along the lines of a stiffer type as apposed to pliable armature wire?

 

[kagemusha]

If using the 'thick' type of super glue, you may wish to get the 'activator' spray.....as the thicker types take longer to set....especially on larger areas
As for suitable wire.....a lot of people use paper clips cut to the length required

Ron

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Re wire , paper clips are good but you may wish to go for something a bit stronger when moving up the scales .
I sometimes use the conductor wire from electrical cable 2.5 and 6mm cable ie the stuff for cooker connection the gauge refers to the whole casing.
Just a note that concerns me re the paper clips with metal figures is the ferrous to nonferrous issue which can cause corrosion , hasn't stopped me doing this but it is worth bearing in mind.
My Landrover Defender always reminds me of what happens when you cross these two metals

Piano wire is another good source if you can get it.

Footnot: landrover have ignored this issue for 67 years so far

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

Ron T.
(Quote), Don't know about the gorilla stuff as it just looks a bit pound-ish to me

A very interesting comment.

Ron T, a basic question. Have you actually tried this product? .. Yes or no will suffice.

Regards,

Mark.

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

You will never just get a yes or no from me Mark
I have used there other products in my profession if you can call it that and they don't do what they say on the tin .
I have used all sorts of industrial glues and potions throughout my 40 year service to the building trade from high end epoxies right down to no nails and sticks like ****
all have there limitations. and all have there uses .
Surprised you took umbrage at such an innocent remark

 

[DEL]

You will never just get a yes or no from me Mark
I have used all sorts of industrial glues and potions throughout my 40 year service ........ and sticks like ****/quote]

Can't argue with your dedication in your use of industrial and indeed natural products

 

[Tubby-Nuts2]

You will never just get a yes or no from me Mark
I have used there other products in my profession if you can call it that and they don't do what they say on the tin .
I have used all sorts of industrial glues and potions throughout my 40 year service to the building trade from high end epoxies right down to no nails and sticks like ****
all have there limitations. and all have there uses .
Surprised you took umbrage at such an innocent remark

Lol, Umbrage. ?? Ron, not at all. Tis/was, but a question. Nothing more.

Innocent..

.

Mark.

 

[Ybrossculpts]

I'm just sitting on the sideline here.

 

[Ron Tamburrini]

Lol, Umbrage. ?? Ron, not at all. Tis/was, but a question. Nothing more.

Innocent..

View attachment 226310.

Mark.

Is that the squirrel god mark with a new virgin

 

[JonG]

Gorilla products are pretty expensive in my eyes, but then they do what they are meant to do, and work.£5 for 15g aint poundland quality.Switched from Zap and Vitalbond to Gorilla stuff myself.