Airbrushing

[Tecumsea]

Having sold up all of pretty much unused airbrushing equipment a few weeks ago I've decided to give it another go over the coming winter.

I'm asking the questions because having bought the equipment I hardly used it because I spent more time cleaning the airbrush out than actually using it to paint. Consequently I gave up and so consider myself a beginner.

I have reorganised my modelling room and still have my spray booth and compressors so just need a new brush.

Can anyone advise on a simple airbrush and how to avoid clogging. Would using an 0.5 aperture be better that an 0.3?

I'me thinking of an Iwata Eclipse CS as a modest price brush for spraying large areas but also tempted with the one with a trigger handle.(Cost is not really the issue-ease of use is) I intend to use it for groundwork and perhaps base coats on larger figures 90mm +

Any suggestions? What paints are you guys using through your airbrushes.

Keith

 

[billyturnip]

Keith, I got one last year to paint armour and aircraft kits while I'm at work. I got a relatively cheap one with a small compressor and carrying case which makes it easier for me to carry it back and forth to Aberdeen.
I was getting pretty demoralised with the thing clogging all the time. I can honestly say it has taken me this long through trial and error to get to grips with it. The paint needs to be thinned a great deal, I don't believe manufacturers claims of "airbrush ready" paint.
Considering when we brush paint figures with acrylics we thin the stuff down considerably I don't understand why it took so long for the penny to drop to do the same with the airbrush.

Personally I am using Vallejo Model Air, Hataka and AK Interactive, both need thinning more than the makers recommendations. A few thin coats is definitely the way to go.

Now I've an inkling on what I'm doing I've started to use it more and more for figures. As you said it's ideal for base coats.

This is a good opportunity to sneak and aircraft in to show where I am with it, I have a 0.3mm needle in it.

 

[billyturnip]

Forgot to say, heavily thinned paint also makes cleaning the thing much easier.

 

[Tecumsea]

Thanks Roger, I had a German H&Steenbeck brush and an Awata HP which I sold off in frustration together with my Model Air Paints. I think they were 0.2 and probably too sophisticated for what I was trying to do.

Thanks for the advice mate.

Keith

 

[Tecumsea]

Does anyone use Tamiya Colours through an air brush?

 

[billyturnip]

What was it that you were frustrated with keith, it clogging up?

 

[Joe55]

Hi Keith,

I airbrush Tamiya, Humbrol, Andrea, Vallejo, Lifecolor, Mig,......that's about it. Like Roger says, its important to thin them down sufficiently, but also adjust the pressure.

I have a Grex Genesis.XG with a 0.3mm needle. The base pictured was painted with Vallejo, the Wildcat colored with Mig and Tamiya including the markings using stencils of course, and finally Lifecolor and Tamiya on the Sherman.

Joe

 

[billyturnip]

It also helps to add a drop or two of acrylic retarder to your paint mixes. I think Vallejo do their own version and call it Flow Enhancer. It requires a bit of experimentation how much to use on different paints and I suspect some manufacturers add it to their "airbrush ready" paint. I put a drop or two in some Mig paint and remained sticky for ages.

 

[Tecumsea]

Thanks Joe, I have quite a few Tamiya paints left so I'll give them a try, I find they go on with a brush quite well and make nice flat basecoats.

Thanks Roger, yes it was the clogging up and constant cleaning that got to me. When I see people doing demos it looks so easy, even mixing in the Airbrush.

I'm not going to be beaten, my extractor cost over £300 and I couldn't give it away, so I thought sod it I'll try again being a stubborn.B*****

 

[valiant]

Airbrushing is one aspect of modelling I have never got to grips with! Call me a Luddite, but frankly, I couldnt be bothered to keep cleaning it out after each use - sounds like a lot of work! Im very impressed with other people's results though!! I look forward to seeing what you can do with it, Keith

 

[brian]

Airbrushing is one aspect of modelling I have never got to grips with! Call me a Luddite, but frankly, I couldnt be bothered to keep cleaning it out after each use - sounds like a lot of work! Im very impressed with other people's results though!! I look forward to seeing what you can do with it, Keith

I'm a fellow Luddite, and think that the airbrush is the "devil's tool" for painting figures.
Aircraft and AFVs is ok

 

[Richie]

Hi Keith,
Best advise I was given and works every time. Ron is a wealth of info. on airbrushing.

Mix your paint in small stainless steel containers or egg cups. Never mix in the airbrush cup. If you want to spray a shadow and highlight colour simply add your base colour in another two containers then lighten one and darken one to the shade you require.
Always thin with airbrush cleaner, I use Medea. Should be a similar consistency to milk.

Load your airbrush cup from the mixing cup with a flat brush, I use something like a number 6. Wipe the brush against the inside edge of the airbrush cup to off load the paint into the cup.
If it runs down the side immediately it is too thin, if it takes longer than a count of 2 it's too thick.
Because you use airbrush cleaner as a thinning medium it can sit for ages without drying up or clogging.
When you want to change colours, simply spray out the excess paint and spray through some cleaner until it runs clean. Then add a new colour. I have sprayed today about seven different colours and only removed the needle once for a quick wipe and it never clogged once.
Hope this helps some.
cheers
Richie
Oh yes and practice the finger control on the trigger.

 

[billyturnip]

Thanks Roger, yes it was the clogging up and constant cleaning that got to me.

I'm not going to be beaten, so I thought sod it I'll try again being a stubborn.B*****

I've just paraphrased the hell out of your post Keith but that's exactly my experience and why I stuck at it.

 

[bogusman53]

Solid advice here, just be aware of tip dry, I use a cotton bud dipped in a lot of thinner, mentioned further on, and gently touch the needle tip from the side to remove dried paint from the needle tip, gently does it here as you don't want to be heavy handed and damage the needle. I also use retarder and make up my own thinner made from screen wash and glass cleaner, works a treat and you can use undiluted screen wash as an airbrush cleaner. I had a dish with paint mixed in this manner and it was still useable a day after I had mixed it up.

 

[Gary D]

If you want to use Tamiya paints, it's best to use Tamiya X-20a Thinner when airbrushing. Although technically Tamiya are called acrylics, they are solvent based and require a thinner. I mix to about 1:1 ratio. Spread some paint to the side of the container (clear if possible). If you can barely see through it and it slowly runs down to the bottom of the container, it's about the right mix. Trial and error required, but you'll soon get the hang of it. Armour guys use Tamiya a lot.

Gary D

 

[billyturnip]

Gary, you've just reminded me of something I either read or saw on Youtube. Someone said when you get a new jar of Tamiya acrylic remove the lid and top it up to the top with Tamiya thinner. This will give you a good consistency for airbrushing and you doesn't require any further thinning.

 

[valiant]

It all sounds very complicated............

 

[billyturnip]

It all sounds very complicated............

No more than anything else we do Steve, it just requires practice and a bit of patience....

 

[billyturnip]

Oops double post. What was I saying about patience?

 

[valiant]

I suppose it is - and somewhere to actually spray - I have to set up on a table in the conservatory, then put everything away when Im done, so it really is out of the question!!