Anyone using an airbrush?
- Thread starter Dr Force
- Start date
Help Support planetFigure:
sam b
A Fixture
Hi David
I use a iwata revolution , for the price you can not beat it !
Have a look at the airbrush company in lancing west sussex
Sam
I use a iwata revolution , for the price you can not beat it !
Have a look at the airbrush company in lancing west sussex
Sam
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2005
- Messages
- 1,568
I use a Badger 150, which is sort of a jack of all trades airbrush that does what I need it to do. Because I have used it so long and know its "ways", I can usually get some pretty fine results. For example, I can almost do all the shading on a 1/6 head, most of the shading on 1/9 heads except for the finest stuff, and large area or overall shading on a 120mm heads. The best part of it is it takes a beating pretty well and doesn't give me many problems. I've had it for years. I try to do aircraft and armor so it gets used for those as well.
Dr Force
A Fixture
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,390
Thanks for your help fella's.
I like the look of the iwata's, especially the HP C+ but rather exspensive, however it will be set to good use given I am more in to diorama's so groundwork, buildings, armor so need a good all rounder at value for money.
No point in going for pro airbrush when I am not a pro painter.
I like the look of the iwata's, especially the HP C+ but rather exspensive, however it will be set to good use given I am more in to diorama's so groundwork, buildings, armor so need a good all rounder at value for money.
No point in going for pro airbrush when I am not a pro painter.
Carlos69
A Fixture
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2009
- Messages
- 933
Dave I use Iwatas Custom Micron,can shade 35th scale with it even though use brushs but have done in past,also use the HP-C Highline with built in MAC Valve... I use that mostly but both are awesome brushs suitable for the most finest of stuff you could wish for in modelling...xpensive but good tools allways are !
Carlos
Carlos
Jamie Stokes
A Fixture
Hi David,
I started with (and still have) a $150 dollar airbrush, use it quite happily as an all rounder tool.
Lays down primer, first coats, does some shading. Lines as fine as 3 -4 mm.
Not quite as precise or as sharp as I want it to be some days, I reckon it's the guy holding the airbrush, not the air brush itself that occasionally gives not so great results.
Brand is a Sparmax, DH-103, double action (way better to use then a single action!)
This will serve me for many years (barring accident) until I can justify shelling out for a better model.
As for results, search for Pepa, she does some great stuff with an airbrush!
Cheers
I started with (and still have) a $150 dollar airbrush, use it quite happily as an all rounder tool.
Lays down primer, first coats, does some shading. Lines as fine as 3 -4 mm.
Not quite as precise or as sharp as I want it to be some days, I reckon it's the guy holding the airbrush, not the air brush itself that occasionally gives not so great results.
Brand is a Sparmax, DH-103, double action (way better to use then a single action!)
This will serve me for many years (barring accident) until I can justify shelling out for a better model.
As for results, search for Pepa, she does some great stuff with an airbrush!
Cheers
Dave, as my namesake says, you get what you pay for. I bought 2 brushes and a compressor off E bay for £70, the compressor works OK. But the brushes were filed into the rubbish bag straight away. I've got an Iwata Revolution, with a MAC valve and it does me for my needs. As I'm still in the experimental stage when it comes to airbrushing, very much like my hairbrush work. Paintbrushes that is, not the Vidal types.
Carl.
Carl.
Hi Dave i think the airbrush for figures is great?
if your doing say winter uniforms it is a great way to fasten the job up.
I also think for some camoflage such as splinter camo its great for doing the red and green colour and of course you can do faces with it to. But i perfer to stick to brush painting when it comes to painting faces. I have an Iwata eclipse cs airbrush.
hope this helps
Tom
if your doing say winter uniforms it is a great way to fasten the job up.
I also think for some camoflage such as splinter camo its great for doing the red and green colour and of course you can do faces with it to. But i perfer to stick to brush painting when it comes to painting faces. I have an Iwata eclipse cs airbrush.
hope this helps
Tom
Dr Force
A Fixture
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,390
As always, fantastic help from everyone.
Looks the CR revolution gets the vote at around £75, just need a decent compressor that will not destroy the relationship with my neighbours lol.
Once again your supportabd suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
Dave
Looks the CR revolution gets the vote at around £75, just need a decent compressor that will not destroy the relationship with my neighbours lol.
Once again your supportabd suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
Dave
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
Hi Carl
IM new to Air brushing got Iwata micron B but keeps clogging up or paint runs
Any tips
Ronnie T
IM new to Air brushing got Iwata micron B but keeps clogging up or paint runs
Any tips
Ronnie T
kagemusha
A Fixture
Hi Ron, I use an Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS, and usually if the paint clogs it means either the pigment is unsuitable for the size of needle/nozzle you are using or needs thinning more.
When the paint 'runs' it is either too high a pressure, spraying too close, paint too thin or too much too soon. It can be a combination of the above just to confuse you.
Hope this helps. Cheers, Ron.
When the paint 'runs' it is either too high a pressure, spraying too close, paint too thin or too much too soon. It can be a combination of the above just to confuse you.
Hope this helps. Cheers, Ron.
As stated, you get what you pay for. If it's something you plan on using a lot, buy the best you can reasonable afford. There's nothing worse than struggling with bad equipment when doing something that's supposed to be enjoyable.
You can't go wrong with Iwata. I'm still using my first (nearly 30 year old) HP-BC2. Original needle as well and this one gets the lion share of use. My kids have been using it now too, the single action Badger I bought for them doesn't float their boat anymore.
Ron, it's all about paint prep, pressure and atmospheric conditions. It's something you'll need to work through and will develop with practice. There are flow meters, etc. to help, but the paint will still behave differently on different days.
You can't go wrong with Iwata. I'm still using my first (nearly 30 year old) HP-BC2. Original needle as well and this one gets the lion share of use. My kids have been using it now too, the single action Badger I bought for them doesn't float their boat anymore.
Ron, it's all about paint prep, pressure and atmospheric conditions. It's something you'll need to work through and will develop with practice. There are flow meters, etc. to help, but the paint will still behave differently on different days.
Ron Tamburrini
A Fixture
yea I was beginning to think along those lines my brush is expensive so
looks like i just need to get the flow right.
Cheers
looks like i just need to get the flow right.
Cheers
Showlen
Well-Known Member
Does anyone have feedback on the Paasche Talon?
Thanks,
Ronnie
Thanks,
Ronnie
Gary D
PlanetFigure Supporter
Hi David. I use 2 different airbrushes. I have an Iwata HP C+ which is considered "the workhorse" for model builders and I just purchased a Harder & Steenbeck 2 in 1. The Iwata has a .3mm needle and the H&S has a .15mm needle so I get really thin lines with it. I'm really just learning how to use them for figure painting as I normally use them for painting armour.
Good luck!
Gary Daugherty
Good luck!
Gary Daugherty
Mark Yungblut
Well-Known Member
I use an Ancient Devilbiss Aerograph Super63e. It's hard to get parts for these days but it'll paint a consistent line 1/32 wide. For non detail airbrushing I use Paasche V. For clear coating and base coating I use a good old single action Paasche model H I have had for 30 years. Sprays like a champ and has three parts to clean 4 if you include the color cup.
Einion
A Fixture
Dave, general rule of thumb with airbrushing is that unfortunately the compressor tends to cost more (sometimes a lot more) than the airbrush.
In terms of what you need/'need' in an airbrush, like with anything a lot depends on what you intend to do with it. For a total beginner I would strongly recommend not getting a better brush to start with, because not only is the AB itself expensive but it's actually very easy to damage them with improper use or handling.
It's for this reason among many that I recommend Azteks to new users. They're hard to damage and with luck you'll never need another airbrush for modelling purposes (and not a single spare part), so they're by no means a beginner-only choice.
If you're interested in a traditional-style airbrush though you might like to consider the Premi-Air G35; it's significantly cheaper than the Iwata and in many ways sprays just as well. I posted a list of entry-level airbrushes in this thread last year:
http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34589
Einion
Dr Force
A Fixture
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2010
- Messages
- 1,390
Fantastic help guys, thank you!
I'll do a tad more research but my main use will be nice consistant priming on my figures followed by a base coat. The rest I will do with oils but will then use the airbrush for those very fine details like splinter camo for example.
The rest will be for Armor at 1/16 scale and the odd 1/35, not to mention large areas of groundwork, so it will have a multiple purpose.
Einion, thanks for your input and the link, everything you say makes perfect sense so I'll have another ponder given your recommendations.
Thanks everyone
Dave
I'll do a tad more research but my main use will be nice consistant priming on my figures followed by a base coat. The rest I will do with oils but will then use the airbrush for those very fine details like splinter camo for example.
The rest will be for Armor at 1/16 scale and the odd 1/35, not to mention large areas of groundwork, so it will have a multiple purpose.
Einion, thanks for your input and the link, everything you say makes perfect sense so I'll have another ponder given your recommendations.
Thanks everyone
Dave
Einion
A Fixture
Welcome Dave. Just to note, most airbrush artists wouldn't try to spray details as small as camo elements, they'd just do those with a standard brush.
Most airbrushed figures aren't painted detail by detail even if the finished model gives that appearance. Without complex masking or a really tight spraying technique using a tiny nozzle it's just not feasible to paint each highlight and shadow individually* and it's not necessary anyway - with a generic bottom-up + top-down technique (creates overhead or zenithal lighting), and with a little retouching by brush afterwards, you get the right effect in far less time and effort.
*The smaller you go the more and more true this becomes.
Einion
Most airbrushed figures aren't painted detail by detail even if the finished model gives that appearance. Without complex masking or a really tight spraying technique using a tiny nozzle it's just not feasible to paint each highlight and shadow individually* and it's not necessary anyway - with a generic bottom-up + top-down technique (creates overhead or zenithal lighting), and with a little retouching by brush afterwards, you get the right effect in far less time and effort.
*The smaller you go the more and more true this becomes.
Einion
