Bent resin parts

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AlbertD

PlanetFigure Supporter
Joined
Sep 22, 2016
Messages
96
I started on a Verlinden 120mm knight a few days ago. He has a big sword that has a pretty good curve to it. I put it under hot tap water for a couple of minutes and bent it back to shape. I thought I was good to go but an hour later it was right back where it started.

Do I need hotter water or maybe over bend it so that when it springs back it's straight? I know resin can be brittle so I want to be careful not to break it.

I'm sure this has been brought up but I couldn't find it in a search.
 
With resin...and strangely enough a lot of old Verlinden stuff...the best way I found was to boil a kettle...pour some into a suitable size container next to the sink...with the cold water gently running...dip the part until you see it straightening...when it's reached the shape you want...then immediately hold it under the cold water to 'lock' it in the correct shape...which is the key to stop it deforming again.
You can re-dip the part if still not quite the shape you want.

Hope that makes sense?

Ron
 
With resin...and strangely enough a lot of old Verlinden stuff...the best way I found was to boil a kettle...pour some into a suitable size container next to the sink...with the cold water gently running...dip the part until you see it straightening...when it's reached the shape you want...then immediately hold it under the cold water to 'lock' it in the correct shape...which is the key to stop it deforming again.
You can re-dip the part if still not quite the shape you want.

Hope that makes sense?

Ron

I was afraid to use water that was too hot but it sounds like you speak from experience. I work on it tomorrow morning and see what works best. I'm a beginner and am using this as a learning project. I have asked a lot of questions and you guys have always been patient and helpful. I can't tell you how much I appreciate that.
 
Yes...like most figure modellers...we all have experience with deformed resin parts from time to time.
It's all about control when using heat...and the size/shape/thickness of the part you want to re-shape.
Using boiling water will only be a problem if you drop the part into it and walk away.
Hold the part in a pair of ceramic or nylon tipped tweezers and you should should have no problems with marking the part...then just watch the part closely to see what effect the heat is having.
As I said before...the cold water is the key to locking it in the desired shape...this is simply because...if you leave it to cool naturally...the resin will shrink back...thus deforming it again.

We all need to ask questions...and getting the help you need is all part of forum life.

Let us know how you get on.

Ron
 
I used the hot water method. It's a bit more controlled.

If the part was cast properly it should return to the straight part that was removed from the mould. If it doesn't return to the shape it should be then the caster took it out too early and it cured curved which is an issue because if you straighten it, paint it, and then it gets warm for some reason (weather or heating being the main ones) it can gradually curve again.
 
I think all the methods mentioned are workable. Personally, I don't like the cold water dip method only because it makes the resin more brittle. I like to use a little more control using a gradual process with "controlled heat" until it's right and hold it there slowly adjusting until your minds eye thinks it's right and let it cool gradually while holding it in place. I guess what I mean is, do it right the first time....Just my opinion.

Wayne
 
For me the most effective way is to heat the part using whichever technique you prefer (it really doesn't matter) - hair dryer, heat gun, hot water - and then instead of dipping the part in cold water, immediately clamp the part between two flat surfaces to hold it straight/flat until the part cools naturally to room temperature.
Rick
 
That's why small parts and weapons should cast in white metal.

IMG_0058a.JPG
 
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