Best size for beginners

[David Sherrington]

Hi Guys,

New to miniature painting, so I was wondering what you would recommend as the best size of figures to start out with? I have painted 1/48 scale to use with some of my die-cast aircraft, but would like something a bit larger. I have also got some 1/32 scale Ultracast pilot figures to do. I plan on using acrylics with oils for the heads. I would also like to have a go at some busts, particularly the Young and Pegaso 1/10 scale ones. I use series 7 miniature brushes and have an airbrush and compressor. Any advice would be most appreciative,

 

[Helm]

I would definately leave the busts till later but really it's personal choice myself I would say 75mm is ideal as a starter not too big or small

 

[megroot]

I think the 54mm is a great start. You can choose out of thousands figure's.
But the canvas on a 75 is bigger, and there is more detail to paint. If you compare the price of a 54 to a 75 it is in my opinion the 75 that wins.
Bust's are a great challenge, but I think you shoudn't start with them

Marc

 

[billyturnip]

David, I would suggest you find a reasonably cheap figure that really interests you in whatever scale/size you think you can paint. All sizes have their advantages and disadvantages. Post plenty of in progress photo's here as you proceed and ask for advice. From that "test piece" gauge whether you are more comfortable working on that size or smaller or larger.
Above all don't be disheartened if it doesn't quite work out on your first try... just enjoy yourself.

Roger.

 

[Bailey]

David,

I think it's easier to start with a larger figure (like 120mm) and then work your way down. The larger size gives you more room to experiment with color mixes, shading and blending, then you can refine those skills as you move down to smaller and smaller scales. With that being said, larger scales can be quite expensive. So, if you're just looking to learn, Verlinden has some rather inexpensive large scale figures and busts. The sculpts are typically not anywhere near the quality of a Young or Pegaso model (though there are a few that I think aren't too bad), but considering the price they can be good for practice. After you've done one or two of those, then switch over to a 75mm Pegaso figure (or one of the many other companies out there) or one of the busts from Young (they are some of the best out there in my opinion).

More important than the size is that you pick a figure you want to paint. If you're not inspired by the subject matter it's just not going to be fun. And, while Verlinden is nice to practice on, if you want a display piece don't skimp on the figure. If the sculpt isn't good, the end result is never going to look as nice as you'd like no matter how good your paint job is.

 

[Steve]

I have to go with Marc; 54mm requires much less exact precision in order to finish. Anything bigger and every mis-stroke or omission is right there large as life.

 

[David Sherrington]

David,

I think it's easier to start with a larger figure (like 120mm) and then work your way down. The larger size gives you more room to experiment with color mixes, shading and blending, then you can refine those skills as you move down to smaller and smaller scales. With that being said, larger scales can be quite expensive. So, if you're just looking to learn, Verlinden has some rather inexpensive large scale figures and busts. The sculpts are typically not anywhere near the quality of a Young or Pegaso model (though there are a few that I think aren't too bad), but considering the price they can be good for practice. After you've done one or two of those, then switch over to a 75mm Pegaso figure (or one of the many other companies out there) or one of the busts from Young (they are some of the best out there in my opinion).

More important than the size is that you pick a figure you want to paint. If you're not inspired by the subject matter it's just not going to be fun. And, while Verlinden is nice to practice on, if you want a display piece don't skimp on the figure. If the sculpt isn't good, the end result is never going to look as nice as you'd like no matter how good your paint job is.

Thanks, David. I have already ordered a medieval archer by Verlinden, as it was a snip on Ebay and I have a particular interest in early history (one of my ancestors was at the battle of Hastings, and another was a servant to Henry VIII). I also have a few 1/32 Ultracast Pilot figures as well as I have always had an interest in aircraft so that's why I chose these particular figures. 1/48 scale was a bit too small, although enjoyable to do, and was done primarily to complement my aircraft models. Now I have the model figure painting bug!!!! I will post some photo's when I get the chance

 

[David Sherrington]

Thanks Guys for all your friendly advice. Great forum to be a member of

 

[sippog]

Something I've done for a few years now is make what I call 'crash test dummies' .

You buy some cheap toy plastic figures from a charity shop or car boot sale - or swipe them from any kids you know - and spray undercoat them with whatever primer you like.

I keep these handy for experimenting on and they've proved very useful for quickly trying out things - shades, washes, paint density - particularly with the airbrush.


You can do this on a piece of paper, of course, but nothing beats a 3d object. It's closest to doing it 'for real' - a no risk way of trying out techniques and ideas. And when you've used up a dummy, you can chuck it, strip it or re-prime it again . . .

 

[David Sherrington]

Something I've done for a few years now is make what I call 'crash test dummies' .

You buy some cheap toy plastic figures from a charity shop or car boot sale - or swipe them from any kids you know - and spray undercoat them with whatever primer you like.

I keep these handy for experimenting on and they've proved very useful for quickly trying out things - shades, washes, paint density - particularly with the airbrush.
View attachment 97318

You can do this on a piece of paper, of course, but nothing beats a 3d object. It's closest to doing it 'for real' - a no risk way of trying out techniques and ideas. And when you've used up a dummy, you can chuck it, strip it or re-prime it again . . .

Good advice. Although he is soooo ugly!!!