Carving Woodgrain Into Metal

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Jim Patrick

A Fixture
Joined
Dec 21, 2003
Messages
2,022
Location
El Paso TX
Got a question for the masses. How would you go about carving woodgrain into a piece of bare metal? The piece of metal is rather large (the back of a very tall chair) and I'm just wondering how you guys would go about doing this. If possible, can you please attach photos to help me visualize what you're explaining? I'm asking this question in an attempt to see how the rest of you would do this to help prevent me from ruining a good figure.

Thanks,
Jim Patrick
 
As Roger says paint is always the better option. What you might want to do is 'engrave' joints to create a plank effect. That way you can use a straight edge.
If it's a chair back I imagine it would have been sanded or scraped smooth so grain would not be 'ridged'
Cheers
Derek
 
What scale Jim? Actually what are the dimensions of the piece? You might be able to get a grain effect without having to remove any metal, if the size is right.

Painting the grain is what I'd generally go for myself but if you definitely want it 3D the method Janne mentions is easy and works well for a generic straight-grained look (widely used in vehicle modelling). If you want grain more elaborate than this I'd suggest a completely different approach - applying a thin smear of epoxy putty and then detailing that as you like. Once cured you can feather the edges in if necessary with very fine abrasive paper or steel wool.

Einion
 
Thank for the replies. Painting the grain.....DUH! :blackeye: Why didn't I think of something so simple? :whistle: The figure in question is Andrea's 54mm Viking seated in a chair/ throne. It is actually made to look like Beowulf from a movie. The back of the chair has no detail and I thought this would be a nice addition. "Eye candy" so to speak. I like Del's suggestion about the straight edge and a combination of the sand paper and painting the detail in.

Ask a simple question and you get a simple answer. Funny how at times we can focus so hard on a problem that we can't see the simplest of answers....:LOL:

Jim Patrick
 
Maybe try drawing the teeth of a saw gently across a practice piece a couple of times. I would imagine a swipe with some sandpaper would be required to take the edge off of any burrs. If it works go for it on the real piece. I use this technique on resin/plastic to good effect.
 
A simple wood grain, tan base coat, let dry, cover with umber or burnt sienna depending on the tone you want. Take a stiff bristle brush about the width of the plank your trying to make and drag it down without stopping. The brush creates the dark grain. Leave a space between strokes for a plank line or brush it all down for a solid wood panel.
 
Why not use real wood? ie. the thin slice of wood that comes in Aluminum cigar containers or cigar box liners. Simply glue on a piece cut to size. If you need some call me.

Joe
 
I had a friend who always treated the figures as flats, he painted only the front of the figures, explaining that : ".. after all, when on the shelves you see only the front...."
Yes I know it's not realy an option
I usualy paint Humbrol clear sand, then let it dry 24 hous, then put on a sheet of paper a big blob of " brown" burnt sienna or whatever, add turbentine, use large flat brush, take some from the blob and make one pass swivelling lightly; you got lines different tones .
It's like "bad" painting a wall ... large brush dipped at the tip in coulour then without applying force, one stroke you got lines, darker and brighter ones
Best
 
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