Ok a first try. I first made the list in Swedish often translating from English sources, now I have translated back into English. So the wrighting may not be of highest quality. I have made quotes from other forums on of some materials that I am not aquainted to, just to get things going, i have made some links to the sources of both manufacturers and hobbyists. I have added questions marks in some places where I'm not sure If I make a correct statement, please correct any errors you find.
Different form of epoxies and there attributions.
Andrea sculp:
Comes in a 70g pack. Easily workable. Last long, the longest lasting epoxy according to my experience so far, to the hardener might dry out some on the edges with minimal flakes being created.. More suitable for medium and larger scales compared to GS. Cures quiet fast, becomes hard and is easily filed/sanded.
Apoxie Sculpt:
“Easy to mix, extremely pliable (and for a good few hours), hardens with no shrinkage (at least not that I can notice) and it's actually VERY clean and doesn't make a sticky mess on your fingers. Woo hoo!”
http://www.hobbyfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=2672&st=15
Brown Stuff, also known as Kneadatite Brown/Neutral.
Same manufacturer as Green Stuff. In contrast to GS Brown Stuff is not flexible, it becomes very hard. It is more suitable for sculpting e.g. weapons and armour. Brown not as god for making details(please correct me here if I’m wrong)? Since it is harder it is also more brittle. Is very soft at the beginning of the mixing, it looses it stickiness very fast. Less prone to shrinking then GS. Smoother finish then GS. More easy to file/sand then GS.Expensive.
Grey Stuff, trademark “Procreate”:
As the name hints, Grey Stuff is Grey, which is supposed to have the advantage over Green Stuff that it makes it easier to see details.
Thought to be the next generation of epoxy. Having much of the similar attributions to GS but lacking the “memory” capacity of Green Stuff. Not good for sharp details or sharp edges. (
www.reapermini.com/forum/) Not as smooth finish as Green Suff. Can be cured up to four times?
Green stuff, in short GS, trademark Kneadadite Blue/Yellow. In the past sold under the names “Duroputty” often called just “Duro”.
As the name suggests the components are Blue(the hardener) and yellow, who become green when mixed. GS has a wax-like appearance and is excellent for making detailed work in small scales. It is flexible/elastic, it doesn’t become completely hardened, it has a “memory” capacity which means that it so to say remembers the shape it has had for the longest time and reform into that shape if it is changed.
The curing time can be affected by changing the ratio in the hardener composition. The more blue, the faster the cure sets in, the more yellow the slower it sets in. GS have generally a long curing time, which gives more working time fore sculpting. It has smooth finish. GS is not as easily sanded as other epoxies. If you buy it in small quantities from Games Workshop it is very expensive.
Harvey’s Plumbers Putty:
“Was at home depot today looking for a two part epoxy. I was looking for a ribbon putty, but ended up only finding a product called Harvey's Plumbers putty. For a 4 oz tube it was only $4.00 so I figured what the hell and picked up one. Came home and decided to try it out. After cutting off a small slice I see that it is a two part putty with the two parts with one part wrapped around the second.
Evaluation...
The putty mixes nice and smooth with very little tackyness. It rolls out nice and smooth and cuts easily.
It is a grey color and no granulation in it's consistancy. I used it to repair a couple parts of the leggins on Rozana and it set in 20 minutes. It was a little rubbery after 30 minutes, but still sandable. With in an hours time it was hard.
Down side.
after mixing the compound only has a two to five minute work life.
Up side
Would be great in bulking up scratch builds and small amounts for minor or major repairs and pin holes providing you can do the work within the compounds work life.
edit Well it has been about 24 hours. the putty sands down fairly easily. Actually, I am rather impressed with the stuff for both a filler and its ease of use in making corrections.
For those who have the Rozarna, the repair I had to make was on each of the leggins that she wears. the top edge that hides the seam where the leg joins the upper leg was damaged. Did not see and flakes of resin in the bag so I know it did not occur during shipping, or packaging. I figure that it occured during modling since it is a rather thin area to begin with.
I'd give this product two snaps and a twist. B+”
http://www.hobbyfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=2672&st=30
Kneadatite A/B Epoxy Putty:
Hardest epoxy?
Kneadatite Blue/White, “White Stuff”:
Similar to GS, Games Workshop US has replaced Green Stuff with White Stuff. GWUS claims it is a better putty. Is flexible. Supposedly professional sculptors still prefer GS.
Magic Sculp:
More moist than other epoxies. Becomes grey and hard, smooth finish. Does not shrink or crack even in larger structures. Suitable fore medium and larger scales. Hard to attach new putty on an already hardened surface. Seems to worse on allergic issues than other epoxies.
Milliput:
Milliput was the first epoxy sold commercially for hobby purposes. Milliput is very different compared to GS. It quiet solvable with water before it cures, then it become hard. You should avoid using to much water since it can have a negative effect on the cure. Can easily be filed or sanded but can be quiet brittle and don not last long. According to the manufacturer it should last for two years if it is stored airtight in a cold place. Some users claim it can be used after 10 years if it is heated in a micro owen. An irritating feature with Milliput is that the hardener often dries out on the surface, with the risk of dry flakes ruining the sculpting if it is not done properly. Hardens within 3 to 4 hours after mixing. In some instances it can be more suitable to carve Milliput rather then sculpt or mould it. In order to resist brittleness you can roll and stretch the putty several times in order to strengthen in. Experienced user claim that with the right technique you can make detailed small scale sculpting. But for normal mortals Milliput is unsuitable for scales as small as 28mm and smaller. Milliput has the advantage of being cheaper then other epoxies, and is therefore suitable for base/groundwork in dioramas
Standard Grain Putty(Yellow-Grey): “The epoxy putty with a thousand uses in modelling D.I.Y and industry.”
Medium Grain Putty (Silver Grey):
”Silver Grey was introduced as a slightly finer filler and is widely used for modelmaking, sculpting, taxidermy and for the repair of garden ornaments.”
Super Fine Grain Putty (White):
“For the restoration of porcelain and other ceramics for the repair of antiques, objects d'art, Victorian dolls, picture mouldings, etc. For sculpting and modelling. For the repair of white domestic chinaware and for filling scores and dents in white domestic equipment e.g. washing machines, refrigerators, etc.”
Terracotta Standard Grain Putty:
”For the restoration of terracotta and other ceramics. Also for the repair of garden urns, pots, Statuettes and damaged brickwork, etc. Also for sculpting and modelling ”
Super Fine Grain Putty (Black):
“Black Milliput was introduced in response to user demand and can be used for Repairs to antique clocks, Guttering, Ebonised wood, Marble, Slate, Cast iron, Basalt ceramics and black plastic parts in cars (such as bumpers, small handles, buttons and knobs).”
http://www.milliput.com/prod.htm
Resolin A+B Putty
White: Gets a smoother structure after curing.
Tan: Standard.
Tamiya Polyester Putty: Green when mixed.
Tamiya Putty; Smooth Surface: Wax like like GS. If the temperature is 20-25 degree, curing will commence in about 5-6 hours and complete hardening in 12 hours.
Testors Contour Putty: “Very easy to find in the US, and very cheap. It will do in a pinch but never gets hard enough.”
http://www.hobbyfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=2672&st=15
