WIP Culloden charge - 1/16 Miniart Conversion.

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Just thinking Miniart ought to make a basic mannequin in 1/16 with optional hands etc.
That would be an excellent idea I would love that. I’m surprised no main manufacture does this aimed at figure modellers, I suppose it’s only a few of us that sculpt and scratch build so probably not economic for them to produce, particularly where most figure modellers are predominantly painters.
 
It's already looking a lively scene. Given your last piece I'm sure this will be a cracker! You've certainly given yourself a challenge with the volumes and folds of the tartan. You've got a good mix there, the front ranks would have been gentlemen with the full compliment of Highland weapons but I imagine a lot of them would have been casualties by this stage of the game. I look forward to seeing your progress, All the best.
Scotty.
PS. Verlinden did a naked mannequin in 120mm and sets of hands, I don't think it would be any better than what you're producing already though.
 
Hi Marcus

Thanks for the look at the 5 figure composition , amazed looking at the seams and gaps ...just highlights the skill with putty to bring them alive

If I may comment , not too keen on the musket being carried on the back .....perhaps add to the left hand and once he's discharged pistol there's a " club" to use against the 4th .......just a thought

Thanks for updates

Look forward to seeing more

Happy benchtime

Nap
 
It's already looking a lively scene. Given your last piece I'm sure this will be a cracker! You've certainly given yourself a challenge with the volumes and folds of the tartan. You've got a good mix there, the front ranks would have been gentlemen with the full compliment of Highland weapons but I imagine a lot of them would have been casualties by this stage of the game. I look forward to seeing your progress, All the best.
Scotty.
PS. Verlinden did a naked mannequin in 120mm and sets of hands, I don't think it would be any better than what you're producing already though.
Thanks Scotty,

Agreed, getting the belted plaid correct will be both a challenge to model and paint but it’s part of the motivation to push myself to try technically challenging modelling. I’m that kind of masochist :)

The right and centre of the highland charge were forced together after several volleys of canister shot and at least two full brigade volleys of musket fire. That would have depleted the Jacobite front line but rather than keep any tactical reserve the Jacobites threw in every man and were basically a rolling mass of men heading toward the 4th foot like a spearhead, so a mix of regiments and officers and retainers fighting next to each other hand to hand. During the skirmish with the 4th foot lost the colours, that must have motivated the highlanders temporary; but ultimately it was the highlight of their fighting that soon became a rout and disaster.
 
Just thinking Miniart ought to make a basic mannequin in 1/16 with optional hands etc.

These could provide an alternative... though some are over muscled and of course you'd still need a proper head:
Man2.JPG Man1.JPG
DIY Drawing Figures for Artist Action Figure Model Human Mannequin Man | eBay
Drawing Figures for Artists Action Figure Model Human Mannequin Man Woman | eBay
Drawing Figures For Artists Action Figure Model Human Mannequin Man Woman Kit | eBay
 
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Hi Marcus

Thanks for the look at the 5 figure composition , amazed looking at the seams and gaps ...just highlights the skill with putty to bring them alive

If I may comment , not too keen on the musket being carried on the back .....perhaps add to the left hand and once he's discharged pistol there's a " club" to use against the 4th .......just a thought

Thanks for updates

Look forward to seeing more

Happy benchtime

Nap

Cheers mate,

The weapons detail just added for now roughly in place. Agreed the Charleville rifle slung over the back is there really just to highlight the proportions of the men and to show off the detail but in reality would have been hand held so close to the front line. The tactic of the Jacobite charge with musket was to deploy them in volley about 50yds from the opposing front line then charge on mass using pistol and bladed weapons at close quarters. I’m tempted to include some regimental colours as the 4th temporarily lost them at this point, but I don’t want to distract from the movement of composition. I’m am trying to achieve some height into the centre to create a rough triangle as that works compositionally and visually though.
 
Thank you Neil,

They remind me a bit of classic action man, that is what really got me into composition and modelling as I used to spend a great portion of my childhood creating battle scenes living in a fantasy world in my bedroom, then making weapons and clothes for them usually inspired by a classic Sunday afternoon war movie or comic. As adult it’s only a minor shift of skill set and really a continuum of what I loved making as a child.

What I need to do is caste some parts like Brest and hip area, then use wire to model from those as it would probably be quicker. Steve from Reedees has been guiding me but casting is not something I’ve done before and I’m still nervous about making, but really just need to do rather than overthink it. Head, feet and hands are always a challenge to model, I’ve converted those but know how hard they are to prime sculpt so avoided till now, but it’s on the radar to have a go.

Thank you again for your support.

regards,

Marcus.
 
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What I need to do is caste some parts like Brest and hip area, then use wire to model from those as it would probably be quicker. Steve from Reedees has been guiding me but casting is not something I’ve done before and I’m still nervous about making, but really just need to do rather than overthink it. Head, feet and hands are always a challenge to model, I’ve converted those but know how hard they are to prime sculpt so avoided till now, but it’s on the radar to have a go.

There's also a route using that Blue Stuff moulding material which allows you to make a mould from a master (it's thermoplastic, so just needs heating in water- and can be re-used). You can than simply press a suitable modelling putty into it. Probably not very good for the final finish, but OK to produce the basic forms.

I'm not sure whether this would be considered piracy/re-casting, but you could also use it to reproduce faces from a master (ie another model) which can then be re-shaped to create a unique character.

There's plenty of videos online about doing this... though some verge a little too close to actual piracy.

Here's some I experimented with: the armour is taken from my MM Mounted Samurai (just as an experiment), the other items are moulded from my scratchbuilt 1/12th samurai (now almost 50 years into the build and no further on :()

BS1.JPG BS2.JPG
 
I use a head and torso dolly which I press-mould copies of for my 120mm figures, using Sylmasta silicone press putty. The legs and arms are made using a wire armature, pre cut to measurements from my anatomical reference drawings. I originally started off using kits as dollies to work on, but soon found that it was easier to start from scratch rather than spend time sanding off loads of details and "cutting and shutting!" Its a little daunting at first, but now saves me a huge amount of time and effort!!(y)
 
There's also a route using that Blue Stuff moulding material which allows you to make a mould from a master (it's thermoplastic, so just needs heating in water- and can be re-used). You can than simply press a suitable modelling putty into it. Probably not very good for the final finish, but OK to produce the basic forms.

I'm not sure whether this would be considered piracy/re-casting, but you could also use it to reproduce faces from a master (ie another model) which can then be re-shaped to create a unique character.

There's plenty of videos online about doing this... though some verge a little too close to actual piracy.

Here's some I experimented with: the armour is taken from my MM Mounted Samurai (just as an experiment), the other items are moulded from my scratchbuilt 1/12th samurai (now almost 50 years into the build and no further on :()

View attachment 418334 View attachment 418335

Thanks Neil, I tried some of that blue mould material some time ago and could never get a good result so not tried it for ages. I’ve invested in a degasser, not had the courage to use it yet though to make moulds and pour resin, Steve at Reedees has been giving me great tips as well. i really have no excuse to start making my own resin parts, case of all the gear and no idea. Yours looks really good though and is encouraging me to just give it a go.
 
I use a head and torso dolly which I press-mould copies of for my 120mm figures, using Sylmasta silicone press putty. The legs and arms are made using a wire armature, pre cut to measurements from my anatomical reference drawings. I originally started off using kits as dollies to work on, but soon found that it was easier to start from scratch rather than spend time sanding off loads of details and "cutting and shutting!" Its a little daunting at first, but now saves me a huge amount of time and effort!!(y)

Making an armature is the way to go, really need to get some scale drawings to help with making. The other advantage is putty curing in the oven to speed up making, I know guys that make / sculpt from scratch do this. It’s got to be the way forward for me I think.

I agree trimming off all the detail is time consuming and not the cheapest way of making a new figure.
 
There are plenty of artists' references for anatomy on Google - I have several sheets of laminated references scaled to the main miniature scales, which make the job ten times easier, as you can transfer dimensions from the drawing to the figure with dividers(y)
 
Thanks Neil, I tried some of that blue mould material some time ago and could never get a good result so not tried it for ages. I’ve invested in a degasser, not had the courage to use it yet though to make moulds and pour resin, Steve at Reedees has been giving me great tips as well. i really have no excuse to start making my own resin parts, case of all the gear and no idea. Yours looks really good though and is encouraging me to just give it a go.


I got a beginners white metal casting kit from Tiranti years ago with everything you need (including an idiots guide) it's handy for casting weapons and if you make a hash of it you just re-melt the white metal and go again.
All the best.
Scotty.
 
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