Dorland's Wax

[Pete_H]

I picked some of this stuff up today just to see how it works. Now my question is: how is Dorland's wax used? I know it's mixed with oils to obtain a flat finish, but how much is mixed? What are some of its benefits/drawbacks? How much is too much? And what happens if I use too much?

Just wondering ...

 

[Patrick Kirk]

Petey,
I talked to Bob Knee 'bout this just yesterday, and I picked some up too. He highly recommended it to me for the matte finish, but also cautioned me on the use. From what I understand, is that it flattens the oils out, but you have to be sure that you just use a tiny bit. If you use too much you get a wicked sheen. Also, Bob told me that if you bake your figgers, the Dorlands will become like a varnish and everything will be shinny. He mentioned using my pallette knife tip and dip that in the jar and pull out just a "dab." His best advice to me with Dorlands, was if you think you have enough, half that and you should be good to go, and never use heat to dry the figger (besides, Bob said the Dorlands matte finish will knock your socks off!)...Does that make sense my brother?
I bet Lou and Bob T, and Phil have some insights too...
Hope all is well...
What are you working on?
Take care amigo! All the best

Patrick

 

[poch mahone]

I remember seeing a video a few years back on painting figures by Kevin Golden (Ithink that's his name) and he used Dorlands wax. I dont know if the video is still available.

Brian

 

[milminwh]

Hi Pete,
I'm keeping my eye on this post...I paint in oils and not too much appears here on this subject.
My own experience with Dorlands is not good. I've tried using various quantities with oils with no success. If you use too much, which I've done, the wax seems to absorb the oil in the paint, drying it out and making it impossible to use.
I only paint Civil War figures, and the dark blue Union uniforms have always been a problem, and I find the only solution to eliminate the sheen is painting a matte finish on the dark colors (which always dry with a sheen).
I do sell (and have viewed) the Kevin Golden video and on this subject found it was of very little help (although overall, an excellent video!).
Regards,
John

 

[btavis]

I use Dorland's this way. I mix it into a premixed medium of Liquin, Grumbacher Painting Medium No. 1 and English Distilled Turpentine. I would say the mix is one part Dorlands to at least ten parts turps. You do not need much to achieve the matte effect and DO NOT put in the crockpot as that will also cause it to gloss. It must air dry.

If you do not want to use it all the time try it on blues and greens which are usually the glossiest oil colors and see what happens. A jar of this stuff will last you a lifetime that's how little you use. It also accelerates the drying time of oil paint. I do not suggest using it straight from the jar as you will never really be able to control the amount correctly. Since it is wax it looks like soft paraffin in the jar and turns to liquid when introduced to thinner. By premixing I can control the amount I use to avoid any problems.

I would not paint in oils without it.

 

[milminwh]

Bob,
Now that I've seen your magnificent work in person, I can attest to the fact that the darker colors (on the piece at MFCA) were sheen-less. I will give this method a try & post the results.
Many thanks!
Regards,
John

 

[btavis]

I think if you get the mix correct you will have better results. I prefer this method over Dull Coating since it does not leave that whitish residue that sometimes occurs with Dull Coat. I have also found that when dry the wax oil provide an excellent surface for glazing as well.

If you just want to accelerate the drying time of oils you can use Japan Drier but you must use very sparingly. This will not effect the gloss but it will speed things up especially for those colors that take forever to oxidate.

Since most of what I do with oils is done in very thin coats I have never had a problem with Japan Drier cracking the paint as some do when applying impasto (thick paint).

 

[geaugan]

Bob:
Are you saying that you make a mix of Liquin, Grumbacher I and Turps or are sometimes adding Dorlands to Liquin and some times to turps etc.

If you're mixing up a medium supple waht are your proportions?

Nice meeting you at MFCA

Larry Lee

 

[geaugan]

I shore due tipe gooad!

 

[btavis]

Originally posted by geaugan@May 15 2004, 07:11 PM
Bob:
Are you saying that you make a mix of Liquin, Grumbacher I and Turps or are sometimes adding Dorlands to Liquin and some times to turps etc.

If you're mixing up a medium supple waht are your proportions?

Nice meeting you at MFCA

Larry Lee

Larry, I mix all of those ingredients together. It is probably 75% turps, 8% Liquin, 12% Grum Paint Med. 1, and 5% Dorlands. This has to be prepared in advance to ensure all of the Dorlands dissolves in the medium. I usually make a batch a week ahead of time and as one gets used up I have another standing by.

Oil paint will dry to the touch in about two hours this way. No crockpot, no DullCoat. Paint must be mixed with this medium and what I do is usually apply a color to match the base coat, let it sit for about fifteen minutes and then work dark/light in wet and feather with a real soft brush. When it is all dry you can apply glazes if you want using more of the paint medium than pigment.

 

[geaugan]

Thanks Bob. I'm going to mix up a batch and try it out on my flats. Sounds like a pretty good mediu,.

Larry

 

[kidney stone kid]

I'll be providing a new keyboard to Larry ASAP.........

 

[Patrick Kirk]

Bob,
How long should it take to dry once the oil is mixed with the medium?
Thanks
All the best

Patrick

 

[btavis]

Dry to the touch in a few hours. Completely dry in a day.

 

[Patrick Kirk]

Wow...
Now can you blend in the highest highlights even after it's dry? Do you apply dull coat at all, Bob?
Thanks for your patience with me...
All the best

Patrick