Drilling metal figures

[Tonton]

Can anyone please suggest the best method they’ve found for drilling into metal figures for locating pins, etc? I have both a pin vice and the helical screw type with mini HSS drill bits but never seem able to make a hole as deep as it really needs to be and have had several bits shear with the effort. Are there any mini power drills that will do the job? Though I already have a cheap Dremel-type (which isn’t up to the job in metal) I don’t want to invest in the genuine Dremel article unless it can handle it.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Jeff

 

[DaddyO]

Hi Jeff
Sounds obvious, but are you going straight in with the large drill? (I drill mine with a pin vice usually and start with the tip of scalpel rotated to get a start and then use a tiny drill (approx 1/32) before enlarging with a bigger one.

I've also used a dremel, but find you need to keep it well lubricated to stop it heating up too much and jamming

Hope that helps
Paul

 

[Graham]

Lots of factors can make a difference. Are the drill bits good quality and sharp? Patience is also a factor. If you are having to force the drill to the point of snapping it then it just isn’t drilling/cutting efficiently. Also, these small drill bits struggle to clear debris out of the hole as the flutes are just too small. This means drilling a few turns, pulling out the drill bit and checking the tip is clean before repeating.

Paul makes a good point using small delicate drill bits and that is to start fine and build up to the final drill size. A power drill like a Dremel will do it but you will still need to drill, clean, drill, repeat. Even in resin I have to do this. Too much pressure or forcing the drill bit should not be required if the bit is hardened and sharpened correctly. You have far more control with a simple pin vice than a helical or power tool.

 

[blaster]

Hi Jeff,

I use a dremel or preferably proxxon (previously Minicraft) power drill The dremel motor turns too fast whereas the proxxon turns just right for my work technique. I dip the drill bit in thinner before each drilling operation. Stop frequently and clear away the debris.

Generally, any type of drill bit can be used to drill thru plastic wood, resin. Metal is harder. I have only successfully drilled thru lead tin castings , thin copper and thin brass about 1mm. If the drill bit is too thin, it may snap. If it is too thick, it may not penetrate, depending again on the drill speed and material.

Most importantly, I discovered that there are drills which can drill thru metal and those which can’t. I discovered this by buying several cheap sets of drill types and experimenting. If you use the wrong drill, you can’t really drill properly.

I hope this helps you a little.
Rgds Victor.

 

[Tecumsea]

Hi Jeff. I buy good quality drill bits one set for metal and another for wood. The dremel is difficult to control and too powerful for our use. I use pin vices and turn them gently by hand. It is a bit slow but much easier to see the angle at which you are drilling and the waste metal evacuates quite easily. I might use the dremel on the wooden base once l have marked out the location point for the pins in the figure or horse.

Keith

 

[Tonton]

Thanks, Paul, Graham, Victor and Keith. Plenty to ponder there and a Dremel can now come off my Christmas present list.

Jeff

 

[theBaron]

I use a pin vise. It takes time, but I have found that once you add power to the mix, the chance of slipping and messing up the piece goes up. If I slip with the pin vise, it's one turn and I can catch it and stop in time. With a rotary tool, or power drill of some kind, if there's a slip, it's instant and can do more damage.

The rotary tool certainly has its place on my bench and its uses. In this particular scenario-drilling out for pins-I will sometimes have the pin material straight through, and I'll use a grinding bit carefully to level it back out.

But for drilling out material to insert pins, I stick with the pin vise.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Tonton]

Thanks, Brad.

Iechyd da! (Welsh for good health)

Jeff

 

[socko47]

Both resin and the lead based metal used to cast figures have the same problem when you try to drill.....both melt and grab the drill because the material re-hardens. That is why the faster speed of the Dremel poses a tough requirement for a proper lubricant. So drilling my hand is safer but the metal is soft so the chips need to be cleaned out more frequently than when drilling steel. Surprisingly a soap solution works well for acrylic and should help with resin and soft metal castings. Usually oil is used when drilling metal and would work for the metal but it is easier clean up with the soap.

 

[yellowcat]

Use a pin vise and a drop of lacquer thinner for white metal drilling. It will lubricate and drill smoother and cut faster. Lacquer thinner is the secret lubricant for white metal drilling.

 

[Nap]

Great suggestions from all

Whst I will add is to put a line if paper tape on the drill marking the depth you need to do

Happy drilling

Nap

 

[Tonton]

Cheers Joe, Yellowcat and Nap. Very useful.

Jeff

 

[DaddyO]

Great suggestions from all

Whst I will add is to put a line if paper tape on the drill marking the depth you need to do

Happy drilling

Nap

I usually stop when the drill appears through the side of the leg

Paul

 

[Chrisr]

I usually stop when the drill appears through the side of the leg

Paul

Me too!!

Thanks for the tips everyone.

 

[Graham]

I usually stop when the drill appears through the side of the leg

Paul

 

[Banjer]

I usually stop when the drill appears through the side of the leg

Paul

Haven't we all been there?

Bill

 

[ivopreda]

https://www.planetfigure.com/threads/2019-2020-my-modelling-year.121611/page-11
above you can find some info about drilling horses legs.
It is important that the drill bit does not mix with lead shavings. To avoid this it is important to proceed gently and clean the drill bit very often.
A little vaseline is useful to grease the drill bit and help it slide.
not all the tips are the same, for the lead better the tips for the wood rather than the steel ones because they discharge the chip better.

 

[Tonton]

Thank you, Ivo. I have an old Verlinden, 120mm, Cuirassier on a rearing horse which has only the two rear legs carrying the weight of the horse and rider. I’ve delayed tackling this because I hadn’t quite figured-out how to sufficiently reinforce these legs. Your post will be a great help, I’m sure.

Jeff

 

[Chrisr]

I used to use a pin vice, which was slow, and Dremel but its high speed was problematic. I then discovered the Proxxon mini drill with its variable speeds. On a low speed it is perfect and relatively quick. I dip the drill bit in olive oil as a lubricant. Not cheap but well worth it.

A video of it

Just hit the Watch it on YouTube button and skip the ad.


Chris

 

[Jeff T]

I used to use a pin vice, which was slow, and Dremel but its high speed was problematic. I then discovered the Proxxon mini drill with its variable speeds. On a low speed it is perfect and relatively quick. I dip the drill bit in olive oil as a lubricant. Not cheap but well worth it.

A video of it

Just hit the Watch it on YouTube button and skip the ad.


Chris

Chris, being in Australia, can you tell me where you purchased yours from?.....thanks for the heads up!

Cheer's,
Jeff.