Dull Coting

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gshank

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
6
I'm new to this hobby. This is my first thread. I want to protect my finished product when complete and understand spraying it with a clear coat is adviseable?

I understand the logic for "why" but need some help with the "how!" I bought both a matte/dull spray as well as a "gloss" which I understand is effective for face and hands.

Please give me some ideas/tips as to "how" best to apply!
 
A protective coat is not necessary usually. What are the pieces painted with? Dullcote us used primarily to remove the glossy finish of oil paints. Any gloss you wish to keep should probably be brushed on to control where it goes.
 
I agree with Bob and I'll also add....

BE CAREFUL! Nothing is more horrifying than spraying a figure with some sort of lacquer and watch all your hard work "melt" right off the casting.
 
Originally posted by Lou Masses@Mar 9 2004, 11:10 AM
BE CAREFUL! Nothing is more horrifying than spraying a figure with some sort of lacquer and watch all your hard work "melt" right off the casting.
or frost it! You'll have a figure looking like Lot's wife looking back on Sodom and Gomorrah.

This is from experiance :(

BTW, welcome to planetFigure !

I have had good luck on figures and non-figures (planes,tanks) using PolyS Matte finish (Acrylic) it is one of the mattest of the Acrylics, Windsor and Newtons' Matte Varnish (acrylic) is nice as well.
 
And, for goodness sakes, try it out on a similarly painted scrap piece before you try it on the real thing. :eek:

Keith
 
Hey Gordon,welcome to the Planet.

For me, the safest and easiest way to dull the oil colours on a fresh painted figure is to put the figure in the oven at warm temperature for an entire day or two days if needed,
The figure will turn out flat.

To add a little sheen to the belts and leather areas,I brush on a mixture 50% linseed oil with 50% turps.

For the face and hands I apply a mixture of 75% turps and 25% linseed oil,this will give the flesh a slite sheen.

This is only one out of a hundred different techniques.

Roc.
 
There is no need to put a "protective" finish on a figure. I have figures that I painted over 20 years ago and they still look the same.
Every time that I have used an overcoat it has been a disaster. It is better to control the finish during the painting phase.
If I absolutely have to use an overcoat I use Polly S gloss or matte and I brush it on.
 
I've been painting for over 30 years now and some of the very first figures that I still have still look the same. I think it is important to keep them under glass, in a showcase, curio to protect them from dust. Every six months I take a make-up brush and clean all my figures. I have never known anyone to be happy that have gone the dull coat spray route.

guy
 
After my last posting I remember a comment someone made that a dull coat will turn the colors and actually you could end up with a yellowish white for example.

guy
 
My experience with Dullcote is this:

It's excellent if you want to protect your paint job when using acrylics. It will protect what you have painted while you paint the next step; and if you make a mistake you wipe, or brush off the mistake without damaging the lower layer of acrylic paint protected by the dullcote.

DON'T USE IT WITH TRANSFERS! It will make them run like there's no tomorrow.

KingTiger
 
Another thing about using Testors Dullcoat is that it blends the colors somewhat. Ive painted a face which I was very pleased with, then sprayed it with dull coat just to see all the contrast disapear and blur together. Now I suppose this could be used to ones advantage if a situation arrives where you wish it was more blended.
 
Does anyone know why it is OK to clearcoat an oil painted figure when only surface dry but an oil painting on canvas has to be left for a mimumum of a year prior to varnishing?

Colin
 
Because figure painters aren't as smart as canvas painters
That was a joke! I've often wondered that myself as my W&N Matte Varnish sits never used for years do to that very same warning-"llow 6-12 months for drying prior to application"!?
 
First of all the one year thing is probably just a precautious rule of thumb. Second, canvas is flexible and figures are not (usually). It is therefore more critical that the oil paint is completely dry before sealing due to the canvas flexing because of either environmental reasons or from just moving around. Also, canvas painters may apply oil paint in impasto which is pretty thick and require much longer periods to dry. I heard that some Van Gogh's are still drying.
 

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