ECW - Breastplate armour

[BESPJL]

Hi,

in ECW the black breastplate was reserved to anyone in particular (Parlamentarians, Royalist, Cavalry, Nobles, etc...).
The 'black' was due to leather covering or the plate was darkened with something to have that look?
And finally with vallejo acrylics how do I obtained that effect?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers.

 

[Helm]

They used all sorts even pitch/tar and it wasn't limited to anyone in particular AFAIK. I've never seen a leather cover but it could be possible I suppose if somewhat impracticable. As for the painting of it I'd use a matt or semi matt effect. Although if it's an officer of rank a gloss effect would be a possibility.

Steve

 

[ChaosCossack]

I asked this same question not so long ago and was informed by some PF members the blackening is an effect of the forging process... for lack of a better term the fire blackening is a result of the tempering (repeated heating and cooling), not polishing or laquering would give the flat finish.
It makes sense as the finish is not unlike wrought iron which also spends alot of time in the forge fire.
As for Vallejo colours I tried a base of German Grey with a touch of Black and Oily Steel, shaded with Black and lightly drybrushed with Natural Steel on the "rub points"... edges around the arms and front of the bottom edge, where constant wear effectively polishes the edge.

Hope this helps

Colin

 

[Wings5797]

" on the "rub points"... edges around the arms and front of the bottom edge, where constant wear effectively polishes the edge."

Hi Paulo,
The point that Colin makes here can make a big difference to the figure. A trick that I picked up from the AFV boys is on blackened steel rub over these areas with a soft graphite pencil (HB or softer). You will get a grey polished steel effect with very little trouble.
Hope that this is of some use.
Cheers,
Keith

 

[BESPJL]

Steve, Colin and Keith
thank you for help it surely enlighten me.

Cheers

 

[Helm]

While Colin is indeed correct re the forging there is also evidence that various coatings were applied. Armour that was for field use was blackened or painted to prevent rusting. This involved coating the armour with "dirty" or used oil (e.g., linseed or olive oil) and burning it off, or boiling the armor in a pot of oil until the oil "cooks" into the steel and then burning off the excess. If brought to the right temperature (270-300C), the oil residue (including the burned carbon in the oil) bonds with the surface of the metal, giving the armor a dark, glossy finish. Another method, which produced a dark grey to light black finish, was to soak the metal in tannic acid extracted from tea, oak bark, peat bogs, etc. So really you pays your money and you takes your choice on it
Good Luck
Steve

 

[ChaosCossack]

Steve,
That is excellent information on the processes involved in the treating of the armour. When I thought about it, just heating and cooling would more likely "blue" the steel (depending on the quality of the alloy). It would require an external source to give the carbon blackening. Would the "tanning" process include a heating stage or is that strictly a chemical reaction between the acid and the steel?
PF is like High School science class... if you actually wake up and listen you might learn something

Thanks for the clarifications

Colin

 

[Helm]

At a guess I would imagine that it was a chemical reaction but they may have heated it somewhat as well

Steve

 

[ChaosCossack]

At a guess I would imagine that it was a chemical reaction but they may have heated it somewhat as well

Steve

I concur

 

[Hans]

I have just used tannin for "blakening" a piece of forged iron. It needs mild heat and several repeated baths in the solved tannin. If taken too much heat it gets blotchy. At last it gets a more bluish shine and it is sticky, you have to clean it with lots of water.
Complete cuirasses of the 17th century I have seen from near all seems to be tarnished with oil, from very fine work (near like modern gun bluing) until up to near brushed on black oil paint with heavy brush marks. Remember, oil plus carbon is nothing less than oil paint. Maybe the oxidation of the oil "paint" is helped with heat.
I must confess, I have never looked for a prime source analysis, as 17th century is far far away from our museums range and I all I say is based only on personal eyesight..... ;-))