Elite's Knight

[brian]

Hi All
Just finished this slightly converted Elite knight.This has been waiting to be painted for many moons so i finally got round to it.
A beautiful little figure from Elite,smaller then your usual 54mm but a gem!
I've got a thing about" in scale chainmail", as some figures mail tends to be a bit chunky and not totally in scale, but Elites 54mm medieval figures are outstanding,as is Pegaso's Irish Knight.The best 54mm mail you'll get.
Brian

 

[Robert Laclavik]

I very much like your style. Perfect in my eyes, congratulations

 

[Guy]

Beautiful painting Brian.

 

[Sambaman]

A real beauty Brian! Well done.

Jay H.
OKC

 

[Taiko]

Hi Brian,
one word....EXCELLENT....

 

[megroot]

Excellent painting Brian.
But it took you awhile to get it finished. Scraping off all the fleur de lis.
It was worth waiting for the finish.
Awesome brushwork.
I really wanted to know what is your mix for the skintone..

Marc

 

[Hardy]

Superb work mate. Hardy

 

[Tommi]

Very nice indeed, that paint job is first rate
Cheers
Tommi

 

[Marcel]

Excellent paintjob Brain!!
I started painting mine and will post some pictures soon but it will not be as beautiful as yours.
Question how did you paint the chainmail?

 

[Major_Goose]

One of the most attractive versions of thsi figure . Your metals are striking and the face also !! Bravo, i really enjoyed it !!!!

Costas

 

[brian]

Excellent painting Brian.
But it took you awhile to get it finished. Scraping off all the fleur de lis.
It was worth waiting for the finish.
Awesome brushwork.
I really wanted to know what is your mix for the skintone..

Marc

Hi Marc
Yellow ochre Titanium White and Madder Brown(which i believe has been discontinued) but Burnt Sienna can be used but a dab of blue should be added to get rid of the orangey tone it will produce.
I paint this mix straight over the top of grey car primer and establish the highlights and shading .I then allow this to totally dry with the aid of a lamp usually.Then i paint wet on dry reinforcing the highlights with adding more Tit White to the basic mix.Extreme shading is used by adding W&N Brown Madder to the basic mix (not to be confused with the unobtainable Rowneys Georgian cheap range of Madder Brown.
If anybody out there knows where they could get hold of the Madder Brown in question please let me know.

 

[KeithP]

Excellent stuff, Brian. Great to see this one completed so well!

Keith

 

[Paul Kernan]

Another stunner, mate.
Cheers
Paul

 

[Kisifer]

Indeed an amazing piece of painting on a classic figure. Well done.

Xenofon

 

[ldom77]

waoh that really a wonderful figure Brian !

can you explain how you work the metal part ? that rocks !


Dom

 

[slaj]

Brian, I simply love it. Good job mate!!

Stephen Mallia

 

[megroot]

Hi Marc
Yellow ochre Titanium White and Madder Brown(which i believe has been discontinued) but Burnt Sienna can be used but a dab of blue should be added to get rid of the orangey tone it will produce.
I paint this mix straight over the top of grey car primer and establish the highlights and shading .I then allow this to totally dry with the aid of a lamp usually.Then i paint wet on dry reinforcing the highlights with adding more Tit White to the basic mix.Extreme shading is used by adding W&N Brown Madder to the basic mix (not to be confused with the unobtainable Rowneys Georgian cheap range of Madder Brown.
If anybody out there knows where they could get hold of the Madder Brown in question please let me know.

Thanks Brian,
I'm a lucky guy. I bought three years back W&N Brown Madder (Alizaron)...
Gonna look for you with the dealer, maybe they have a some more.

Marc

 

[brian]

Hi Marc
Sorry to dissapoint you but the W&N Brown Madder Aluzarin is not the one i use.It's Rowney's Georgian cheap range "Madder Brown".
W&N also make a Brown Madder which is what i use for flesh deep shades,but the Georgian Madder Brown is the "holy grail".
All a bit confusing isn't it?
Brian

 

[brian]

waoh that really a wonderful figure Brian !

can you explain how you work the metal part ? that rocks !


Dom

Hi Dom
After cleaning up the figure i give the metal parts a rub down with coarse steel wool and the mail with a small brass brush.Then i mix Lamp Black and Burnt Umber and apply over the bare metal.I then dab it off with kitchen paper towel which will leave a skin of oil paint .The highlights are the bare metal showing through and the shading was done with pure Lamp Black.No thinners were used .In this instance i wanted a shiny appearance to the armour but if i'd wanted a worn appearance i would stipple it with a dry worn out brush.You can check the difference between this figure and my last one i did, the Byzantine Standard Bearer wher i used the more worn look.
The mail was given a wash with a mixture of Lamp Black and Burnt Umber (slightly different tone from the armour) and added a touch of Liquin and thinned it down to a wash.Normally will use about 2 or 3 coats making sure that each coat is dry before applying the next wash.
Brian

 

[megroot]

Hi Marc
Sorry to dissapoint you but the W&N Brown Madder Aluzarin is not the one i use.It's Rowney's Georgian cheap range "Madder Brown".
W&N also make a Brown Madder which is what i use for flesh deep shades,but the Georgian Madder Brown is the "holy grail".
All a bit confusing isn't it?
Brian

Oke, I can have it all. And sure, it is confusing. Any idea if it goes with the W&N...

Marc